My 1023 doesn't stop right away after you take you foot off the forward pedal....
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    tommott77's Avatar
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    Question My 1023 doesn't stop right away after you take you foot off the forward pedal....

    Hey all,

    My 1023 that I purchased last year, around 35 hours on it currently, has started to develop an issue where it doesn't stop right away after you take you foot off the forward pedal. From new it stopped instantly after taking your foot off both the forward and rear pedals, it still comes to a searching halt after taking your foot off the reverse pedal.

    Is this a transmission creep or brake issue? It doesn't move on it's own on level ground just doesn't come to a quick stop anymore and I have to hit the brakes from time to time. I've found something here on how to adjust transmission creep but just want to make sure that is actually the issue before trying to make the adjustment.
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    In Hi, Low or both gears? I traded my 1023e off a few weeks ago but in Low it would stop immediately when you pull your foot off either pedal it took a bit longer to come to a stop in High. The coder it was the more responsive it was. Check your fluid levels cold with attachments down, you are due for a hydraulic change at 50 hours, make sure you use low vis.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    My 1025R stops when i tkae my foot off the hydro pedals. I very seldom use my left foot for the brake only if on a incline.
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    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    tommott77's Avatar
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    Just checked the hyrdo fluid cold and it was correct. Tested the stopping in both the low and high gears forward and back. The only instance where I feel like I'm getting a positive or an active response in terms of the tractor slowing itself down is in reverse high. All other instances; high forward, lo forward, lo reverse and feels like the tractor is just coasting to a stop.
    Last edited by tommott77; 05-02-2017 at 11:10 AM.

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Look at the pedal linkage and you will see a shock similar to a hood or trunk gas shock. Actuate the pedal and observe the movement of the shock and linkage. Tractor not running of course. It could be a bad shock, something wedged in the linkage or a pedal pivot thats hanging up.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcopterdoc View Post
    Look at the pedal linkage and you will see a shock similar to a hood or trunk gas shock. Actuate the pedal and observe the movement of the shock and linkage. Tractor not running of course. It could be a bad shock, something wedged in the linkage or a pedal pivot thats hanging up.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    Spray the pedal pivot linkage with some Fluid Film or WD40 as xcopterdoc posted maybe pedal is hanging up or something wedge in the linkage.
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    Gene

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    The 1025r has a bad shock issue that started out for me like you have described. Look under the right rear wheel and move the pedals and you will see the shock that is referenced.

    The issue for mine was that the forward end of the shock mount is a 10-32 threaded aluminum end into the shock that has a shackle to bolt it to the pedal linkage. The issue is that there aren't enough threads/meat on the 10-32 end of the connection to keep it in place. As it starts to strip it will lengthen and give you the creepy forward with a solid reverse stop.

    if that is the problem and it lets go be prepared to step on the reverse pedal to stop the tractor because it will NOT return the pedal if it lets go. You can drive the tractor without it but it is not safe and you will find that without the shock it is extremely jerky to drive.

    Easiest way to service it if it is needed is to remove the right rear tire. A 13mm socket and long extension with swivel on the forward connection and a torq on the rear (forget the size) and it comes right off for service/replacement.

    Check the recalls I seem to remember there being a recall on them from somewhere here on this site.
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcopterdoc View Post
    Look at the pedal linkage and you will see a shock similar to a hood or trunk gas shock. Actuate the pedal and observe the movement of the shock and linkage. Tractor not running of course. It could be a bad shock, something wedged in the linkage or a pedal pivot thats hanging up.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    Not the OP, but dealing with this problem right now. The pedal side of the cylinder has come off entirely. Is there any way to reattach it to the rod of the gas cylinder, or does the entire cylinder have to be replaced?

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Threads are usually stripped. Replace the shock and be done with it.

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Part number is LVA17758. Somewhere around $65. Give or take.

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