Possible gotcha for 1025R MMM owners...
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Thread: Possible gotcha for 1025R MMM owners...

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    Red face Possible gotcha for 1025R MMM owners...

    Just learned something a week or two ago and wanted to pass it along for other 1025 owners who might be fighting with attaching/re-attaching their MMMs.

    I bought a 1025R about 3 years ago with the 60D MMM. Runs great when it's attached, but it never - and I mean never - attached or re-attached as easy as the videos showed. Even allowing for a little bit of marketing license on Youtube, it was a consistent struggle. The tolerances seemed too tight. It'd go on partway, or crooked, or not at all. I eventually settled into a routine of getting partway on to the lower mechanism and then using a piece of 2x4 and quite a bit of body english to get it pushed and locked into place. I mentioned this to a service manager once at the dealership and he agreed that the ease-of-use thing had been a bit oversold.

    So while I loved the FEL I eventually picked up, I dreaded having to take the MMM off to use it because of the struggles I'd had to get it back on. I had eventually planned to replace it anyway, maybe at the end of the season, because of the pain-in-the-rear factor.

    Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago.

    I had a problem with the neutral switch, fidgeted with all the connections, but couldn't get the "shift to N" message to go away, so I called the dealer to come get it. When I went to pick it up afterward, the service dept cashier mentioned something about replacing a bolt on the mower. I wasn't clear on why, so she brought be back to the tech.

    Turns out he had also struggled mightily to take the thing off and then noticed that a lower mechanism on the tractor had been installed incorrectly.

    This is looking at the left-hand side of the mower, towards the front.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The part I'm touching had been incorrectly attached to the outside, rather than within that part that receives it. The result was that the whole apparatus had been mis-aligned from the get go (it's correct now, obviously). The tech replaced the original bolt with that green one you see and said I'd probably have an easier time of it from now on. Then he said "I didn't charge you for that," which I thought was sort of nice, since someone along the way on Deere's side had been the one to screw it up start with. It's been in the shop a couple of times for various bits of other maintenance, but apparently no one had noticed it before now.

    In any case, it turns out he was right. I took the thing off for some garden FEL work and put the MMM back on afterward on the first try for the first time ever. Who knows if I'm the only one this has ever happened to, but if you've battled the thing like I have, it's something to check. I had been operating under the assumption all this time that it was all set up right, and that my problems were either

    1. operator error
    2. bad design
    3. all of the above

    Anyway, wanted to share it with everyone else just in case.

  2. The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to jquinby For This Useful Post:

    bob (05-10-2017), etcallhome (05-08-2017), gbnpp05 (05-07-2017), kcamp99186 (05-17-2017), keane (05-08-2017), Levi (05-08-2017), SCPORET (05-08-2017), Spartazoo (05-08-2017)

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    RetiredDoc's Avatar
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    If all the MMM problem threads that are on this site are representative of the dealer techs who assemble and install these things, John Deere really needs to do a better job of training them.

    Took me over a year to get mine fixed, and a lot of my time wrenching around under the tractor to correct the installation problems.

    I'm just too old to pull that left rear wheel too many more times to address something that should have been right from the day of delivery.

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    spferdil (05-08-2017)

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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    I just checked my and here is what it looks like.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Guess it's on right but it has a pin instead of a bolt.
    1026R -- 60D mmm -- H120 Loader -- Curtis 150 Tiller -- DR 3 point Chipper -- Howse Middle Buster -- Brinly 16 Blade Disk -- Kodiak 5' Box Blade -- 12-42 lb. suitcase weights -- Lawn roller -- Upgraded seat springs from psrumors -- Kennyd's bolt on hooks & clevis -- BXpanded tooth bar -- CMI 6' wagon -- Heavy Hitch Cultivator /garden bedder / hiller attachments --

    Donated by some great people/vendors on here: 72 lb. wheel weights -- Bro-Tek 1˝" rear wheel spacers.
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    For those that read this post, if your MMM doesn't just click on when you load it and release with one finger on the latch to unload, it is not set up properly.

    Good catch. Glad you have it fixed.
    1025R w/rear light kit, 49" H120 FEL, 12" 260 BH, 60D MMM, 2048 Rotary Cutter, BB5048L Box Blade, 50# wheel weights, 4x42#suitcase weights, 5' TSC Landscape rack, TSC modified Carry-All, 42" Titan Pallet Forks, Heavy Hitch Toothbar

    D130 JD Lawn Tractor, Polaris Ranger 400, 18' Gator Made Lowboy Trailer,

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    cheesetrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    I just checked my and here is what it looks like.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Guess it's on right but it has a pin instead of a bolt.
    That's what mine looks like as well. Never had a problem connecting the deck.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by cheesetrain View Post
    That's what mine looks like as well. Never had a problem connecting the deck.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That looks pretty good to me, too (for whatever that's worth). I never noticed what it looked like prior to the fix, though you can see some wear around the head of the bolt that he used.

    Maybe I'll get those front anti-scalping wheels re-welded back on now...
    Last edited by jquinby; 05-08-2017 at 12:48 PM.
    Levi, BigJim55, bama1025r and 1 others like this.

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    The two big nuts at the front of the tractor need to be of lesser take up for mower deck attachment while greater take up works better for mowing when taller grass is desired. It has been my experience that the rear latching is inhibited when optimum take up is made on the two forward nuts for desired grass cut height. I too use a 2x4 to aid latching because I have the cut height as I prefer it and the latching is less than advertised ease. I find if I were to loosen the take up on the two forward nuts the deck sets to low in the front. A better cut is observed with the deck level. Still better with the drive over feature since it's so heavy and difficult to manover. All IMHO.

    If it seems too good to be true, it's not.............

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    Creekdrifter's Avatar
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    People continue to complain about these drive on mowers. If it's not as easy as "On TV" then somethings not right....
    Levi, BigJim55 and Robnik like this.
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    Some kind of free cultivator
    Access to a whole lot more than I can afford..

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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Creekdrifter View Post
    People continue to complain about these drive on mowers. If it's not as easy as "On TV" then somethings not right....
    Sometimes mine goes on/off great and other times I have to work at it some. Just depends how the tractor wants to act...or how the MMM wants to act. Then there are times I forget to release the locking tab on the 3PH lever that I have set as a double safety to make sure the MMM only goes down as far as I want it to and so the 3PH won't go all the way down. I don't like the 3PH dragging on the ground while mowing. When it doesn't hook on/off right I go through the check list I have in my mind. Still the best thing they ever did for a MMM on a tractor.
    BigJim55, kcamp99186 and Robnik like this.
    1026R -- 60D mmm -- H120 Loader -- Curtis 150 Tiller -- DR 3 point Chipper -- Howse Middle Buster -- Brinly 16 Blade Disk -- Kodiak 5' Box Blade -- 12-42 lb. suitcase weights -- Lawn roller -- Upgraded seat springs from psrumors -- Kennyd's bolt on hooks & clevis -- BXpanded tooth bar -- CMI 6' wagon -- Heavy Hitch Cultivator /garden bedder / hiller attachments --

    Donated by some great people/vendors on here: 72 lb. wheel weights -- Bro-Tek 1˝" rear wheel spacers.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    Sometimes mine goes on/off great and other times I have to work at it some. Just depends how the tractor wants to act...or how the MMM wants to act. Then there are times I forget to release the locking tab on the 3PH lever that I have set as a double safety to make sure the MMM only goes down as far as I want it to and so the 3PH won't go all the way down. I don't like the 3PH dragging on the ground while mowing. When it doesn't hook on/off right I go through the check list I have in my mind. Still the best thing they ever did for a MMM on a tractor.
    After a year of fighting getting my MMM on/off with a 2X4 - and being too lazy to alot time to go through the many great 'setup' instructions on this forum - I noticed the front deck wheels were about 3/4 to 1 inch higher than the back wheels. I adjusted this out with the front bracket nuts and after that, on/off worked PERFECT! (Still haven't done the rest of the setup )
    Last edited by mdy1318; 05-12-2017 at 12:21 PM.
    Levi likes this.
    Merrell



    - JD 1025R, R4's, H120 FEL w/ Kens Bolt-on Grab Hook/Clevis combo (awesome!), 60" autoconnect MMM, 36" forks

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