slow hydraulic lift/lower for 60d on 1025r
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    slow hydraulic lift/lower for 60d on 1025r

    Well, the problems keep rolling in this year. So, went to hook up the mower deck for the second time this year, and the pto assembly took for ever to drop down. I figured it might just be a fluke, and would clear up with the weight of the deck to pull it down. Well, it's not any better. Takes 5-10 seconds to go from the H on the sticker, to the fully raised position. What's the best way to troubleshoot this? Can I pull the hose off and flush it somehow, in case its something in there? Drop the cylinder itself? Ideas?
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    Jamone's Avatar
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    Have you tried adjusting the 3 point hitch drop speed control? Not sure where it is on the 1025r but on my 2038r it's under the seat. Assuming you have the "mechanical" lift for you MMM that is tied to the 3 point.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamone View Post
    Have you tried adjusting the 3 point hitch drop speed control? Not sure where it is on the 1025r but on my 2038r it's under the seat. Assuming you have the "mechanical" lift for you MMM that is tied to the 3 point.


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    I wish it was that easy. We have the hydraulic system that uses a single acting cylinder to raise the deck. t's slowest going down, which is supposed to be spring (and gravity) assisted.
    Last edited by lewisc1985; 05-11-2017 at 12:13 PM.

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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    The hydraulic life is power up but gravity down. is there a blockage in the line. Does it raise fine. Does it hook into loader control or is it the independent lift with the switch on the dash?
    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    Not the switch operated one. I think it must be something in the line at this point. I pulled the cylinder, and it seemed fine (they use a DA cylinder with a plug on the second port!), so the next step will be to pull the ends of the hose, and clean it out I guess.. Project for Monday, since I'm going out of town for the weekend
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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    Can you hook up the other side of the cylinder? That could hook into the other side of the curl function on your loader control then you would have power up and down. Which is what the new "Command Cut" is on the new 2 series. Good Luck Dont know if it can be done but if the cylinder has a plug it sounds doable to me>
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    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    Just wondering , before removing the cylinder , did you happen to unplug the hyd connection and then plug in the connection again..

    I've had hyd lift on several different JD sub compacts over the years. Of all the units I've always had to help lower the lift arms down for the MMM. By using either my foot or hand pressing down on the lift arm at the same time moving the hyd lever.
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    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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    With the hydraulic mmm lift, when lowering the linkage alone without the mmm attached, the linkage will lower slowly. You also have to be careful to not push the SCV control to far to the right or you will get into the regen section.
    If you do not have an auto connect, I can image it would almost take some assistance to get the linkage alone to lower. The only thing that pulls the linkage down is gravity and a spring connected to the linkage at the lift cylinder.

    Also, the cylinder port isn't plugged, that is a vent.

    I have an auto connect and when I lower the linkage without the mmm attached, I always give it lots of time to lower and usually put my foot on one side of the linkage to assist and to make sure it is down all the way prior to attaching the mmm.
    Last edited by Ray_PA; 05-11-2017 at 04:27 PM.
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drifterbike View Post
    Can you hook up the other side of the cylinder? That could hook into the other side of the curl function on your loader control then you would have power up and down. Which is what the new "Command Cut" is on the new 2 series.
    Command Cut uses a linear actuator, not hydraulics.
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    My cylinder started acting the same but only not going down. A small restrictor was checked and found to be clear. The cylinder eventually bound up. I took the cylinder out to find it full of crud in side. Seems it was getting in thru the vent. Poor design. Another cylinder is in the works. I talked to hydraulics people about it and confirmed the crud is entering thru vent, poor position and location for it. The vent was drawing in thru the fine screen over time and destroyed the cylinder. Have fun getting another looking at $300 when all said and done from JD. Cylinder is made by Hanna company. Contacting them was like talking to the dog. Looking else where and I'll post when final.

    In the mean time set the deck on tractor lifting with 2x4 and mow lawn without the lift feature.
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