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    Broke down...

    Hello. I have a new 1025r and have approximately 27 hours on it so far. This weekend, I dropped the mower deck and did some digging. Tonight, it was time to put her away and I went to connect the deck and was unable to. Before it got to dark, I noticed that the female coupler will not level out, it's stuck facing up. I'm not sure how to fix this. I also noticed a gasket sticking out of the rear area, with some oil. Not sure if this is the tranny, pto thing or what it is. The gasket flaked off when I touched it.

    I'm going to call the dealer, but I'm pretty freaked out I screwed something up somehow. Any ideas on what the problem is?
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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    Some good detailed pictures will help a lot.

    The "seal" that is coming off, is the seal on the pto output on the transmission?
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    No pictures tonight, it was getting dark and I had to get the kids bathes and ready for bed. I found another thread

    http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...s/20312?page=1

    That is my problem exactly. However the bigger issue is the gasket and leak. No it's not the gasket at the Pto, it is the one underneath on the main box. Drive shaft, transmission, I'm not sure what it is.
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    buckteeth445's Avatar
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    Mine broke as well, it was a ground clearance issue.
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    ErikR's Avatar
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    I can't guess at the gasket issue, however, I can take a good guess about your auto connect shaft issue...

    Your shaft is stuck in the collapsed position. The shaft is supposed to slide freely and yours is stuck....

    pics of shaft short and long....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Reach up and disconnect the shaft at the PTO out put... pull the collar forward... and pull...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Once it's off, pull the shaft to the rear to free it up. It would be a good idea to grease the fitting on the shaft, and the ones at each end on the u-joints.

    When you reattach the shaft, be absolutely certain the shaft has locked onto the PTO stub. You don't want it flying off and knocking off the hydraulic filter.
    2014 1025R, H120 loader w/53" bucket and Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar, 54" Auto Connect MMM, 47" QH snow blower, Ballast box and loaded rear tires, Speeco Quick Hitch, Ken's Bolt-on Grab Hooks, King Kutter Carry All, 54" front QH blade w/Heavy Hitch skids, Titan 36" pallet forks, Land Pride GS0560 Grading Scraper, and chrome (kitchen drain pipe) exhaust tip!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by ErikR View Post
    I can't guess at the gasket issue, however, I can take a good guess about your auto connect shaft issue...

    Your shaft is stuck in the collapsed position. The shaft is supposed to slide freely and yours is stuck....

    pics of shaft short and long....

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF7152.JPG 
Views:	345 
Size:	48.4 KB 
ID:	387722

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF7151.JPG 
Views:	344 
Size:	46.9 KB 
ID:	387730

    Reach up and disconnect the shaft at the PTO out put... pull the collar forward... and pull...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF7965.JPG 
Views:	42 
Size:	252.1 KB 
ID:	387754

    Once it's off, pull the shaft to the rear to free it up. It would be a good idea to grease the fitting on the shaft, and the ones at each end on the u-joints.

    When you reattach the shaft, be absolutely certain the shaft has locked onto the PTO stub. You don't want it flying off and knocking off the hydraulic filter.
    Thanks! your last picture, where the bolts are at the bottom, is the gasket that is leaking, and where the gasket was sticking out. What is that part?Click image for larger version. 

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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    If your tractor is under warranty you will need to have them split the case and fix the gasket, I've heard of other people here with those gaskets that were not installed correctly and squirmed out. Basically, they apply a bunch of silicone sealant, if they're not careful the gasket gets squished out during assembly. Not a big deal but should be fixed by the dealer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AJgrn78 View Post
    If your tractor is under warranty you will need to have them split the case and fix the gasket, I've heard of other people here with those gaskets that were not installed correctly and squirmed out. Basically, they apply a bunch of silicone sealant, if they're not careful the gasket gets squished out during assembly. Not a big deal but should be fixed by the dealer.
    That's another thing I learned the hard way. You either use a gasket or silicone sealer but never both. The sealer acts like a lubricant and the gasket will squeeze out. However something like 3M weatherstrip adhesive can be used to glue the gasket in place.
    Only exception is a very small amount in the corner of an oil pan gasket.
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    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    That's another thing I learned the hard way. You either use a gasket or silicone sealer but never both. The sealer acts like a lubricant and the gasket will squeeze out. However something like 3M weatherstrip adhesive can be used to glue the gasket in place.
    Only exception is a very small amount in the corner of an oil pan gasket.
    They actually make a product to secure gaskets in place during the assembly process, it's often used on things such as valve cover gaskets to "tack" the gasket in place during assembly. You use it very sparingly and just a little dab here and there, enough to keep the gasket in place while handling the piece. You can also use a small dab of Vasoline or Petroleum Jelly to temporarily hold a gasket in place while assembling it.

    I have also used Vasoline to hold the dozen small pins and springs in place assembling wet PTO clutch plate assemblies. Since the PTO clutch disc operates in the Hydro fluid, the small amount of Vasoline just dissipates once the fluid heats up and when you service the unit, you are removing any residue of the Vasoline when you change the fluid and filter.

    It's very unlikely you should ever need to use a "sealant" along with a gasket. The sealant forms the seal and replaces the gasket and the applications which call for a gasket shouldn't need sealant.

    Much of the rear end and axle assemblies (such as the Tuff Torq, used in many of X5XX, x7xx and many prior models of lawn tractors) uses a liquid sealant product which is widely available at Deere, O'Reilly, Autozone, etc. The applicator can makes applying the material very handy and easy to use. There are a variety of sealants for different objectives so if you are unsure which to select, either ask the parts person or research the choices on line to learn the differences.

    When in doubt about a gasket or whether sealant is used, the John Deere parts illustrator shows the breakdown of every component on your tractor in great detail. ALWAYS use the gasket where required and the sealant where specified and avoid mixing and matching the two. They are designed to achieve specific outcomes and it's best to use them as designed. Many of the actual gaskets are multi layered and some even have stronger material sandwiched in the gasket between the outer layers.

    Some of us "old School wrenches" keep gasket sheet material on hand so we can make our own gaskets if the need arises, but that's not something you see too often any more.

    When you are applying the sealant material between two machined surfaces, you don't need to apply large amounts of sealant. It's not like you are caulking gaps in house trim or siding where you are using the sealant to fill the void. If you are unsure about how much sealant to apply, you can always apply a line of sealant, mate the two pieces up and then remove the pieces before bolting them to see how much the sealant has covered before torquing the bolts or fasteners. A little sealant generally goes a long ways.

    It's very important to always torque the assembly correctly to avoid squeezing out the gasket or the sealant material by over tightening. The John Deere Technical Service Manuals include detailed bolt torque amounts and even torquing sequences for proper assembly. Also, many of the machined surfaces use much lower torque settings than you might imagine. You don't want to "good enough it" with an impact gun or you may end up removing sheared off bolts or even risk cracking a machined housing.

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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    If you guys are interested in a VERY good sealant for crankcases, transmission housings, and the like, check out Yamabond 4. Used extensively in the motorcyle world, I have a tube and it's good stuff, IMO superior to Permatex.
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