Battery Charged W/ Wrong Polarity / Battery Replacement/ Starting Issue Solved
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Thread: Battery Charged W/ Wrong Polarity / Battery Replacement/ Starting Issue Solved

  1. Top | #1

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    Battery Charged W/ Wrong Polarity / Battery Replacement/ Starting Issue Solved

    Hi,

    Last Monday I went out to start my 2009 2305 TLB, and the battery was too low to start the engine. I got my 1970's-era battery charger out and hooked it up to the battery to charge it. Everything seemed normal, and I checked the meter on the battery charge, and it was reading the charging rate of 6 amps as I walked away. I went to another area of the property and started to do some work. Three hours later, I returned to the tractor to start it...the battery charger was still hooked up.... the warning lights came on as normal, and when I turned the key to start, nothing happened, except the warning lights went out, and they did not come back on when I released the key from the start position. I got off of the tractor and went to check the battery charger and its connections. I was surprised to find that I had connected the charger to the wrong battery posts! I disconnected the charger and used a multi-meter to check for battery voltage...the battery has changed its polarity to reverse polarity! Suddenly, I could hear numerous cash registers ringing in my mind.

    I went to the internet, and was told that the battery's reverse polarity could be changed back, and by draining the battery of all voltage and then charging it with + to + and -
    to -, the battery would once again be charged with the correct polarity. Following that procedure, I had no luck in that. All this time, I am wondering what else may have happened with the tractor's electrical system. I went on the hunt (internet) for a replacement battery, and found one at NAPA for $116.00 + tax w/exchange. I found that "Batteries Plus Bulbs" wanted $70.77 exchange for a new "Duracell Ultra Heavy Duty " 'direct-replacement' battery (with exchange, minus a $5.00 mail-in rebate) but the nearest store was some 40 miles away. Hoping to not have to make that trip, I phoned the only local (off-brand) tractor dealer in town (15 miles away), and was told, "bring your old battery down and we will match it as best we can with Interstate battery, and UH,,,,, you might have to make up a new battery hold-down bracket or two". When I asked about how much a new battery would be, I was told; "Oh, somewhere between $100 - $150.00....probably". I headed out the door to Batteries Plus Bulbs and an 80-mile drive (round trip).

    Returning home with the new Duracell battery, it bolted right in using the tractor's original hold-down clamps, and the positive & negative battery posts were where they should be. When I went to start the tractor, it started and immediately shut down. Several more attempts to start the tractor netted the same result. I recalled seeing a video on you tube about the exact same issue, and the problem was diagnosed as a failure of the 1.5 AMP V-4 diode. Rats! I was thinking that I had probably fried that diode with the reverse polarity charge. Then I thought to myself: maybe it's just a blown fuse? Getting the 2305's operator's manual out, I found the location of the fuse box, and sure enough, the 15-AMP "Engine, Glow Plug, and Starter" fuse was blown. Installing a new 15-AMP fuse took care of the rest of the issues, and gave me back the warning lights when I turned the ignition switch to "ON". As I write this, all is well with the tractor, it is up and running great again, and I am very Thankful that I did not immediately start digging into the tractor to replace the 1.5 AMP V-4 diode.

    Regarding my aging 1970's era battery charger, it used to buzz and emit warning clicks whenever it's leads were reversed on a battery. There was no warning like those this time....it's time to buy a new battery charger. With my being 68-years old, living in retirement on a fixed income, prices and Taxes! always on the rise,I try not to buy anything that I don't have to.... but a new battery charger is a must!

    I bought this tractor new in February of 2009, and the original battery lasted 4-1/2 years (from the time of tractor purchase). That original battery died in August of 2013, and the replacement NAPA battery lasted 3 years and 10 months. I spoke with my brother in Nebraska last night (he's a die-hard Kxxxxx owner, and says that he "bleeds orange") and he told me that the Kxxxxx tractor batteries have lasted on average 10-12 years! He's owned that brand of tractor since 1996, and he wonders if maybe those tractors might have some sort of device in their wiring to prevent parasitic discharge of the battery whenever the tractor is not running...

    Diggin' It, Burn Em up
    Last edited by Burn Em Up; 06-21-2017 at 03:47 PM.

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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    Glad you were able to get it going and the damage wasn't more serious!

    John Deere batteries aren't that good. They fail with no warning, there's just something about them. Your replacement should hopefully last a lot longer than the factory battery.
    -Blake

    Your mileage may vary.

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    YouTube- Life in Wyoming

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    Bulitt's Avatar
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    Newer models with software would have been fried $$$
    Bob - 2011 2520

    2520 Mods - http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...2520-mods.html
    Posted for general info only. Not suggesting you alter your tractor based upon my feeble minded posts. Do so at your own risk. Maintenance and mods should be performed by a JD Dealer, or refer to your owners and maintenance manuals for proper procedures.


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    All you need is a good battery tender. You can buy them for as little as $40. The smaller ones just take longer to change a low battery. Yes they do have reverse polarity protection. I highly recommend the ones from DelTran.
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 06-22-2017 at 03:16 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    All you need is a good battery tender. You can buy them for as little as $40. The smaller ones just take longer to change a low battery. Yes they do have reverse polarity protection. I highly recommend the ones from DelTran.
    +1 I've brought batteries back from the dead with a battery tender. These little unit have "Brains" and monitor voltage to vary the charge, switch on and off as needed so it's not a continuous trickle charger. Great for getting a battery through the winter that isn't used. You can either permanently install them or clip on. $25, I need another one for my new X590!
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/Battery-Tender-Junior-Charger/15779492?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid= 22222222227009309680&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838771 312&wl4=aud-273067696062la-78652250792&wl5=9003301&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl1 0=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=15779492&wl13=&veh=sem
    Last edited by Nuke; 06-22-2017 at 03:26 AM.
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    HomesteadJoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burn Em Up View Post
    Hi,

    Last Monday I went out to start my 2009 2305 TLB, and the battery was too low to start the engine. I got my 1970's-era battery charger out and hooked it up to the battery to charge it. Everything seemed normal, and I checked the meter on the battery charge, and it was reading the charging rate of 6 amps as I walked away. I went to another area of the property and started to do some work. Three hours later, I returned to the tractor to start it...the battery charger was still hooked up.... the warning lights came on as normal, and when I turned the key to start, nothing happened, except the warning lights went out, and they did not come back on when I released the key from the start position. I got off of the tractor and went to check the battery charger and its connections. I was surprised to find that I had connected the charger to the wrong battery posts! I disconnected the charger and used a multi-meter to check for battery voltage...the battery has changed its polarity to reverse polarity! Suddenly, I could hear numerous cash registers ringing in my mind.

    I went to the internet, and was told that the battery's reverse polarity could be changed back, and by draining the battery of all voltage and then charging it with + to + and -
    to -, the battery would once again be charged with the correct polarity. Following that procedure, I had no luck in that. All this time, I am wondering what else may have happened with the tractor's electrical system. I went on the hunt (internet) for a replacement battery, and found one at NAPA for $116.00 + tax w/exchange. I found that "Batteries Plus Bulbs" wanted $70.77 exchange for a new "Duracell Ultra Heavy Duty " 'direct-replacement' battery (with exchange, minus a $5.00 mail-in rebate) but the nearest store was some 40 miles away. Hoping to not have to make that trip, I phoned the only local (off-brand) tractor dealer in town (15 miles away), and was told, "bring your old battery down and we will match it as best we can with Interstate battery, and UH,,,,, you might have to make up a new battery hold-down bracket or two". When I asked about how much a new battery would be, I was told; "Oh, somewhere between $100 - $150.00....probably". I headed out the door to Batteries Plus Bulbs and an 80-mile drive (round trip).

    Returning home with the new Duracell battery, it bolted right in using the tractor's original hold-down clamps, and the positive & negative battery posts were where they should be. When I went to start the tractor, it started and immediately shut down. Several more attempts to start the tractor netted the same result. I recalled seeing a video on you tube about the exact same issue, and the problem was diagnosed as a failure of the 1.5 AMP V-4 diode. Rats! I was thinking that I had probably fried that diode with the reverse polarity charge. Then I thought to myself: maybe it's just a blown fuse? Getting the 2305's operator's manual out, I found the location of the fuse box, and sure enough, the 15-AMP "Engine, Glow Plug, and Starter" fuse was blown. Installing a new 15-AMP fuse took care of the rest of the issues, and gave me back the warning lights when I turned the ignition switch to "ON". As I write this, all is well with the tractor, it is up and running great again, and I am very Thankful that I did not immediately start digging into the tractor to replace the 1.5 AMP V-4 diode.

    Regarding my aging 1970's era battery charger, it used to buzz and emit warning clicks whenever it's leads were reversed on a battery. There was no warning like those this time....it's time to buy a new battery charger. With my being 68-years old, living in retirement on a fixed income, prices and Taxes! always on the rise,I try not to buy anything that I don't have to.... but a new battery charger is a must!

    I bought this tractor new in February of 2009, and the original battery lasted 4-1/2 years (from the time of tractor purchase). That original battery died in August of 2013, and the replacement NAPA battery lasted 3 years and 10 months. I spoke with my brother in Nebraska last night (he's a die-hard Kxxxxx owner, and says that he "bleeds orange") and he told me that the Kxxxxx tractor batteries have lasted on average 10-12 years! He's owned that brand of tractor since 1996, and he wonders if maybe those tractors might have some sort of device in their wiring to prevent parasitic discharge of the battery whenever the tractor is not running...

    Diggin' It, Burn Em up
    My only question is: Given that you found the 15 amp fuse blown, did you really need to replace the battery?

    Sincerely,
    BadAss 2038R, R3s, R4s, Spacers, Eng & Tranny Heaters, LEDs, Cages, Fender Flares, Front Fenders, iMatch, Heavy Hitch, Hitch-N-Can, 800# Quick Tach Weights, 220R Loader, Single Point Hyd, 57" HD Bucket, WR Long Tooth Bar & 3rd Function Hyd, 55" Wicked Root Rake Grapple, 270B Backhoe, 72D MMM, Front 3 pt Hitch, 366 FMB Blade, PHD300 Post Hole Digger w\ Auger Set, LR2172 Landscape Rake w/gage Wheels, RB2072 Rear Blade, BB2072 Box Blade, AP12F Pallet Forks, EA 72" Pine Needle Rake, Fit-Rite TNT

  10. Top | #7

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    I would recommend you research a dohickey called a desulfator to help extend the life if your battery. I found out about these recently and was able to bring a dead battery back to life. For less than $20 if you can extend the life of an expensive battery that seems like a good value proposition to me. I think I bought a max-desulfator bands for ebay for ~16 delivered.

    The other think of note...I never buy new batteries since they are so expensive (at least in my opinion). I do to the local Interstate battery master distributor and they sell their blemishes-blems for ~$30 for pretty much all common sized batteries.

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