Stripped Rear Wheel Bolt
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    Juan Deere's Avatar
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    Stripped Rear Wheel Bolt

    Well, today was not a very good day. This is one of the issues I ran into with my 1025. I was looking around to install an auxiliary power switch for my new sprayer and when I removed the right rear tire, I noticed one bolt just spun loose. I have never removed this tire before.

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    A few questions -

    How safe is it to operate with only 4 lugs?

    How easy would it be to tap a new hole?

    How much does the whole hub cost in case I wanted to replace it?
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    - Austin

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    That's a bummer. New rear axle is $354. I can think of a couple ways to fix it (assuming the axle is steel). Weld the hole back up, drill it and re-tap it to the original size. A new bolt and you are back in business. You could also just put a bolt with a nut on the backside assuming you can find a longer bolt with the tapered shoulder.
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    Juan Deere's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    You could also just put a bolt with a nut on the backside assuming you can find a longer bolt with the tapered shoulder.
    Brilliant! I guess I've been so blind with rage that I didn't even think of that.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juan Deere View Post
    Well, today was not a very good day. This is one of the issues I ran into with my 1025. I was looking around to install an auxiliary power switch for my new sprayer and when I removed the right rear tire, I noticed one bolt just spun loose. I have never removed this tire before.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170628_161807.jpg 
Views:	41 
Size:	3.80 MB 
ID:	399538
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170628_161824.jpg 
Views:	41 
Size:	4.71 MB 
ID:	399546
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170628_163328.jpg 
Views:	41 
Size:	4.39 MB 
ID:	399554
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20170628_163400.jpg 
Views:	45 
Size:	4.23 MB 
ID:	399562



    A few questions -

    How safe is it to operate with only 4 lugs?

    How easy would it be to tap a new hole?

    How much does the whole hub cost in case I wanted to replace it?
    This machine still under warranty? If so call your dealer and tell them what you found. See if they can do anything for you.

    It's safe to cut the grass for now but you don't want to leave it this way. I'd hold off on any heavy ground engaging use until it is fixed.

    Check with the dealer or on line for a axle price.

    The way to fix the bad hole the correct way is with a thread insert. It will come in a kit usually. You have to drill out the hole with a specific size bit. They tap the hole with the supplied tool. Then screw the insert into the hole. After the repair the hole will accept the stock size bolt. You also need to make sure it is drilled and tapped straight.

    Do not drill the hole & wheel oversized to use a bigger bolt. That's ghetto.

    Forgot to mention buying a new lug/bolt if that's not obvious.
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 06-28-2017 at 06:21 PM.
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    Juan Deere's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    That's ghetto.
    Hahaha. Yes. I will look into your suggestions, too. The machine is not under warranty anymore. However, I may call and see what they can do.

    Thanks for your time.
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    - Austin

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    The way to fix the bad hole the correct way is with a thread insert. It will come in a kit usually. You have to drill out the hole with a specific size bit. They tap the hole with the supplied tool. Then screw the insert into the hole. After the repair the hole will accept the stock size bolt. You also need to make sure it is drilled and tapped straight.

    Do not drill the hole & wheel oversized to use a bigger bolt. That's ghetto.

    This.

    Timesert's or Heli-Coil's are what should be used here.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juan Deere View Post
    Brilliant! I guess I've been so blind with rage that I didn't even think of that.


    This idea is also ghetto. Not as much as an oversized bolt but still ghetto. lol

    If you don't feel comfortable with doing a proper repair. Take it to a shop that you can trust. It would also save you the cost of the Heli-Coil kit. Normally the shop will just change you for the insert and labor to install it.

    Either way it will be way cheaper than just the cost of a new axle. It might also save you the labor to remove and install the axle. The hole could be drilled way straighter and easier on a drill press vs a hand drill with the axle still in the transmission. It would be up to the shop doing the repair.

    Good luck
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    Agree that Heli-coil or similar is the best way, short of replacement, to fix the hub. The Heli-coil threads will actually be stronger than new. They're heat treated be quite hard and somewhat brittle, which is partially the reason why they work.

    Al

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    Old Pa-pa Old Cajun's Avatar
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    A Heli coil should be no problem here.

    Take your time and be careful drilling the old threads out as straight as you can for the Heli coil tap and the Heli coil.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Cajun View Post
    A Heli coil should be no problem here.

    Take your time and be careful drilling the old threads out as straight as you can for the Heli coil tap and the Heli coil.
    If you have the tooling (once you get over 1/2 inch fasteners this can be a problem).....

    Generally speaking, a twist drill will continually self-center in a existing hole as long as you don't try to hog out too much at once or force it. Assuming a 5/8" SAE (fine) lug bolt, the existing threaded hole is 9/16 in diameter. The Heli coil tap will require a 5/8" hole AT A MINIMUM for it's tap (you have to clear out all the existing thread remnants), so you can start with, say, a 19/32 drill (if you have one...) and work your way up to the repair kit tap drill size.

    This is a lot easier with fasteners less than 1/2" since even a modestly equipped home shop has a set of twist drills in 1/64" increments up to 1/2". Note that I am assuming US UTS fasteners. The same idea holds if it is metric, with the exception that the tooling is even rarer in an American home shop, or you have to be handy at converting inches to mm.

    Al
    Last edited by AlKozak; 06-28-2017 at 07:45 PM.
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