Changing hydraulic fluid/filter
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    Changing hydraulic fluid/filter

    A few years ago my 1026R was due for its first 50hr service. I couldn't get the plug out. In fact I stripped it bad. Not wanting the mess with it, thinking this this first service was important, and having a bit of work to do that summer, I had the dealership come get it, service it, and bring it back. Now it's due for its 200hr service and I look under and the same stripped plug is there. Shame on me for not noticing it earlier.

    I was worried they had only changed the motor oil but when they looked me up we saw I had paid for a filter and fluid, and then said they probably just drained the hydraulic fluid from the filter without messing with the plug!! I could've done that myself. So question is, is that ok? Can I do an effective hydraulic oil change by just draining it when I remove the fliter?
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    Marcel

    2012 1026r tractor, H120 loader, mower deck, rake

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    chex313's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orniphobe View Post
    A few years ago my 1026R was due for its first 50hr service. I couldn't get the plug out. In fact I stripped it bad. Not wanting the mess with it, thinking this this first service was important, and having a bit of work to do that summer, I had the dealership come get it, service it, and bring it back. Now it's due for its 200hr service and I look under and the same stripped plug is there. Shame on me for not noticing it earlier.

    I was worried they had only changed the motor oil but when they looked me up we saw I had paid for a filter and fluid, and then said they probably just drained the hydraulic fluid from the filter without messing with the plug!! I could've done that myself. So question is, is that ok? Can I do an effective hydraulic oil change by just draining it when I remove the fliter?
    NO!!

    Thats why I don't trust anybody and do things myself...they should be embarrassed as heck...Unbelievable.
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    Dave's 2012 1026R TLB,54"MMM Auto Attach,Ken's hooks&clevis,Artillian 36' Forks and a KennyPedal WH 520H 48" Snow Blade,48" Deck379 Peterbuilt (3 Million Miles in a big truck)

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    CountryLakes1025R's Avatar
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    When you say "stripped it bad" do you mean rounded the head of the plug off? Is so try using a wrench on the flats or a pair of vise grips to lock down on it and try to remove it.
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    We need pics...you can buy a kit that will remove a rounded-off bolt, and I'm surprised it was that tight in aluminum of all things that it wouldn't come out?
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    When you pull the strainer out it will empty. FYI.. The drain plug is metric. Use the correct 6point socket.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Orniphobe View Post
    A few years ago my 1026R was due for its first 50hr service. I couldn't get the plug out. In fact I stripped it bad. Not wanting the mess with it, thinking this this first service was important, and having a bit of work to do that summer, I had the dealership come get it, service it, and bring it back. Now it's due for its 200hr service and I look under and the same stripped plug is there. Shame on me for not noticing it earlier.

    I was worried they had only changed the motor oil but when they looked me up we saw I had paid for a filter and fluid, and then said they probably just drained the hydraulic fluid from the filter without messing with the plug!! I could've done that myself. So question is, is that ok? Can I do an effective hydraulic oil change by just draining it when I remove the fliter?
    If the filter sits higher than the drain plug, then the answer is no. I would fix the stripped out drain plug and then worry about your service coming due. They sell wrenches that can deal with things like this.
    Marlin likes this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcopterdoc View Post
    When you pull the strainer out it will empty. FYI.. The drain plug is metric. Use the correct 6point socket.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    So I can drain it without messing with the plug? It's mangled good from trying vice grips. I bought an EZ Out kit but am apprehensive about trying it.
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    Marcel

    2012 1026r tractor, H120 loader, mower deck, rake

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    CountryLakes1025R's Avatar
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    The drain plug should not be in the oil pan that tight. Make sure you are turning it counter clockwise facing it. I have come across drain plugs on cars that were rounded out / mangled and locked on them "really" tight with vice grips to break them loose them replace the plug with a new one.
    HydroHarold and Marlin like this.


    --- Ed ---

    *2016 1025R TLB, 54" Auto Connect MMM w/ mulch kit, Imatch, Wheel Wts
    Artiliian 42" Forks
    JD 54 Plow Blade w/ Artillian Snow Plow System
    Ken's Bolt On Hooks & Clevis, 2x2 Bolt on Receiver, Diff Pedal, Seat Spring Upgrade, Oblong Ring Slings
    SD Hvy Hitch, Combo Cart, 53" Toothbar, Front Weight Hitch
    R2 Edge Tamers
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    ilmo's Avatar
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    If your drain plug is damaged that you can't get it out, another way is you can drain the oil when you pull the suction screen. It might be a little messier than pulling the plug, but this should let almost all the hydraulic oil drain from the transmission. Then, you can also clean the screen and magnet(s). Just remove bolt #23 and pull out #24 slightly without totally removing to do initial drain down of the hydraulic oil.





    Remove and Install Oil Suction Screen


    1. Park the machine safely. (See Parking Safely in Safety Section.)
    2. Remove backhoe, if installed.
    3. CAUTION: Avoid injury! The machine can fall or slip from an unsafe lifting device or supports.
      • Use a safe lifting device rated for the load to be lifted.
      • Lower machine onto jack stands or other stable supports and block wheels before servicing.
        LVAL38341-UN-21AUG12

        A - Left Rear Wheel
        B - Jack stand Location



      Raise rear of machine, and remove left rear wheel (A).

    4. Lower machine onto jack stand under left side of transmission (B).
    5. Place a drain pan under left side of transmission. Drain transmission.


    6. LVAL38342-UN-21AUG12

      C - Hose Clamp
      D - Hose Clamp
      E - Hose
      F - Suction Pipe
      G - Lower Manifold
      Raise bottom hose clamp (C), and lower top hose clamp (D) onto hose (E).
    7. Remove hose (E) from suction pipe (F) and lower manifold (G).


    8. LVAL38343-UN-21AUG12

      G - Bolt
      H - Lower Manifold
      I - Suction Screen
      Remove bolt (H). securing lower manifold to transmission case.
    9. NOTE: If suction screen does not come out with the lower manifold, reach in and remove screen from transmission. Be certain all O-Rings remain on assemblies.
      Remove lower manifold (G) and suction screen (I).
    10. NOTE: Depending upon your machine, you may have one, two, or four magnets in screen.


      LVAL38344-UN-21AUG12

      I - Suction Screen
      J - Magnets
      Clean the suction screen (I). Remove the magnet(s) (J) from the screen. Clean magnet(s) and install into screen.


    11. LVAL38345-UN-21AUG12

      G - Lower Manifold
      I - Suction Screen
      Lubricate and install suction screen (I) to lower manifold (G). Make sure screen is fitted straight into elbow to aide proper alignment to transmission opposite side cover.
    12. IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Make sure that the free end of the suction screen is aligned and fitted to the socket in the transmission right side cover during assembly. Improper installation could result in crushing of the suction screen and subsequent hydraulic pump failure.
      NOTE: Suction screen must remain perpendicular to lower manifold as shown below for it to align properly into flange area (K) on opposite side of transmission.


      LVAL38346-UN-21AUG12

      H - Bolt
      K - Flange Area
      L - Screen Assembly
      Install suction screen assembly (L) into transmission. Make sure end of screen fits into socket inside transmission right side cover.
    13. Install bolt (H). Tighten bolt to 28 N•m (248 lb-in.).
    14. NOTE: If upper suction pipe (F) was removed from hydraulic pump, replace O-ring (M) before installing pipe. Tighten bolts (N) to 11 N·m (97 lb-in.).


      LVAL38752-UN-05OCT12

      C - Lower Clamp
      D - Upper Clamp
      E - Hose
      F - Suction Pipe
      G - Lower Manifold
      M - O-Ring
      N - Bolt
      Install hose (E) onto suction pipe (F) and lower manifold (G). Secure upper with upper clamp (D) and lower clamp (C).
    15. Install left wheel onto machine. Tighten wheel bolts to 120 N•m (89 lb-ft).
    16. Raise machine and remove jack stand. Lower machine.
    17. Fill transmission with oil, Check for proper oil level.

    KN52281,1003F27-19-20121005

    Last edited by ilmo; 06-30-2017 at 09:08 PM.
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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orniphobe View Post
    So I can drain it without messing with the plug? It's mangled good from trying vice grips. I bought an EZ Out kit but am apprehensive about trying it.
    IMO.. Yes. Just remove the suction screen and let er flow.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
    etcallhome and coaltrain like this.

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