1025R Break-in Procedures?
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    1025R Break-in Procedures?

    I'm chomping at the bit to get my new machine and get to work, but are there any recommended practices for break-in of a new 1025R I should be aware of before I unleash the Deeres of War upon my yard?
    -Scott-

    2014 1025R - 60D 7-Iron MMM, H120 53" FEL/Ballast Box, Ken's hooks and Piranha toothbar, BB2048L Boxblade, 54" snowblade Quick-tatch w/full hydraulic lift/tilt.

    You don't have to outrun the bear......just the other campers

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    Read your manuals safety and pre-operating and operating procedures, check your fluids and get to work!

    On edit - here's some reading for you:

    Understanding Engine Oil : Information about break-in oil, oil additives, recommended oil types, service intervals, and more.
    Last edited by JohnFromOKC; 05-08-2014 at 10:34 AM.
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    sstlaure, Some reading for you while you wait. Maybe you have seen this already but what the heck.

    OMLVU25849
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    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    ^^^^Great posts^^^^^

    Check your fluids, warm it up for a few minutes, and get her dirty. Try to vary the rpm in the first 10 hours of operation. Do not stay at the same rpm for extended periods. Don't baby it. Work it!
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    ^^^^Great posts^^^^^

    Check your fluids, warm it up for a few minutes, and get her dirty. Try to vary the rpm in the first 10 hours of operation. Do not stay at the same rpm for extended periods. Don't baby it. Work it!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yours wasn't bad either.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

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    Thanks - I'll read them all....

    I gotta stop by the dealer to see if I can pre-inspect my manuals so I'm ready to go when I get her.

    -Scott-

    2014 1025R - 60D 7-Iron MMM, H120 53" FEL/Ballast Box, Ken's hooks and Piranha toothbar, BB2048L Boxblade, 54" snowblade Quick-tatch w/full hydraulic lift/tilt.

    You don't have to outrun the bear......just the other campers

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    I believe what I linked is the manual.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    I believe what I linked is the manual.
    Gizmo's link is your manual. You'll like being able to click right where you want to read.
    1025R FILB - And lots of other goodies. Support our GTT American small business vendors! Great products at fair prices.

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    Run it like you stole it.......my tractor was delivered with 1.9 hours. I disabled the RIO and started cutting grass running the 60" MMM and pulling the 60" offset mower in 100 degree weather WAO. Now with 78 hours it hasn't burnt the first lick of oil.
    1025r TLB w 60D MMM & Independent Lift
    SN 114287 Built April '13 received 8/21/13
    180 degree thermostat
    Omni Transformer w/ integrated weight bracket
    Single Point
    Ken's Bolt on hooks
    Artillian Forks (42")
    Full Compliment of Wheel Weights (340lbs)
    Custom Seat Springs

    Kubota 326H 72" deck ZTR

    Stihl MS361, FS250R

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    rgd
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    I've said this before...

    Warm it up and get that baby to work. If you can ...find a long downhill and run it up to full speed and let off the gas...errr diesel. This puts back pressure on the rings and will force them into the walls of the cylinder. The first couple of hours of an engines life, the crosshatch is still rough and not polished over. This is the best time to get those rings seated fully. If you baby it, the rings will take a lot longer to seat and may never fully seat. Also, heat cycles matter too...so get the engine fully warmed up doing this procedure, let it cool down....do it again a couple of more times...and then run it like you stole it. There have been studies done (i cant remember the source, but I believe it was Hot Rod mag) that have proven an engine broken in like this will have longer life and make more power as well.

    They had dyno charts and pictures of two torn down identical engines to show the results of engines babied vs the procedure above. It was pretty revealing
    Last edited by rgd; 05-08-2014 at 01:12 PM.
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