1026 Rear Spline
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Thread: 1026 Rear Spline

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    HydroHarold's Avatar
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    1026 Rear Spline

    After yet another squeeze under greasing session today I noticed that the rear driveshaft spline is dead dry. I gave it an extra couple of shots of grease into the universal, but nothing will come out around the spline shaft. The universal cups are FULL and oozing yet nothing out the back.

    OK - Not OK? Remedy?

    Have had 4WD's since the '60's and never saw a spline that wouldn't pass grease. But, I've not seen shaft splines fed from the universal joint either. They all had separate zerks for splines...
    2013(12) 1026r TLB 54 QH front blade, 54D Auto Connect deck, ballast box, carryall

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HydroHarold View Post
    After yet another squeeze under greasing session today I noticed that the rear driveshaft spline is dead dry. I gave it an extra couple of shots of grease into the universal, but nothing will come out around the spline shaft. The universal cups are FULL and oozing yet nothing out the back.

    OK - Not OK? Remedy?

    Have had 4WD's since the '60's and never saw a spline that wouldn't pass grease. But, I've not seen shaft splines fed from the universal joint either. They all had separate zerks for splines...
    You lost me!
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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    Greasing the u-joint will not grease the splined shaft the yoke is on. To do that, you'll need to remove the shafts three bolts on the engine side so it will slide on the splines.
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    HydroHarold's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    Greasing the u-joint will not grease the splined shaft the yoke is on. To do that, you'll need to remove the shafts three bolts on the engine side so it will slide on the splines.
    Thanks Jason, that's what I wanted to know. I guess that spline is not high on JD's "Friction List". It sure was on all my other 4WD stuff.
    2013(12) 1026r TLB 54 QH front blade, 54D Auto Connect deck, ballast box, carryall

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    I'm not sure I've seen a universal joint with a grease passage for the splines on the shaft. I've put grease on plenty of PTO shafts to help them slide on and off, but not by way of the universal joint grease zerk. Heck anymore its hard to find a universal joint with a grease zerk. My 2 door Tahoe had a small clunk in the drive line and GM has a special grease for the drive shaft splines, but it was installed by way of the finger.

    -636
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

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    I use Fluid Film on mine.

    I spray some on the backside of the shaft, inside the universal joint & directly on the splines.
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Sure HydroHarold, confuse me and thank diesel. Nice guy.

    Seems to me I remember seeing grease fittings on drive shafts for greasing the spline. Am I wrong and just dreaming or what?
    Keith

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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by HydroHarold View Post
    ... I guess that spline is not high on JD's "Friction List". It sure was on all my other 4WD stuff.
    Harold,

    I suspect that the difference between your 1026 and your "other 4WD stuff" is the other stuff has a spring suspension system and the 1026 does not. As your other 4WD stuff bumps up and down on the suspension springs, the drive shafts have to move in and out on the splines. The 1026's drive shafts, on the other hand, would have little reason to move in and out except for the one from the transmission to the MMM. That one would move in and out each time the mower deck is raised and lowered. That's still a lot less of the ole in and out than a 4 wheeler bumping down a 2 track in the woods. Make sense?

    Note: I'll stick up for John Deere until the day my 1026 rolls over and dies.
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    HydroHarold's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adamski View Post
    Harold,

    I suspect that the difference between your 1026 and your "other 4WD stuff" is the other stuff has a spring suspension system and the 1026 does not. As your other 4WD stuff bumps up and down on the suspension springs, the drive shafts have to move in and out on the splines. The 1026's drive shafts, on the other hand, would have little reason to move in and out except for the one from the transmission to the MMM. That one would move in and out each time the mower deck is raised and lowered. That's still a lot less of the ole in and out than a 4 wheeler bumping down a 2 track in the woods. Make sense?

    Note: I'll stick up for John Deere until the day my 1026 rolls over and dies.
    Makes sense exactly! That's the answer for sure on that spline! Been so long since I was under a "real" 4WD... well I won't say. I'll just give it a shot of something to keep it from rusting further and find more important things to whine about.

    I'll stick up for JD also minus the junky BH seat, the usual factory loose bolts + hydraulic fittings, etc., you know, the little factory quality control stuff I've run across, AND just as long as that stuff goes away as the series matures! After digging up my well I certainly WILL stick up for the BH/FEL and how they operate. Mighty slick on the first "real" test!!!
    2013(12) 1026r TLB 54 QH front blade, 54D Auto Connect deck, ballast box, carryall

    '04 GX335, 48C, Johnny Bucket Jr., PowerFlow W/7bu. bagger, 42 snow blower, 48 Plow, JD front dethatcher, 10 Cart, Little-Brown Henway, Stihl 026P/20", Stihl 241/16", Stihl BG 85 blower, Stihl KombiMotor 110 w/string trimmer/brush cutter/edger/pole saw/hedge trimmer, Snapper 21" WB, Snapper 8/24 snow blower

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