Adjustable top link for 3-pt
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Thread: Adjustable top link for 3-pt

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    Adjustable top link for 3-pt

    So in anticipation of getting my new tractor I've been watching videos of how to use some of the implements. Specifically the box-blade.

    It seems like an adjustable top-link is required so that you can adjust the angle of the box to the ground when in the down position. Has anyone installed a hydraulically actuated top-link on a 1025R? I believe there are additional valves, etc. available, but what specifically would be required for this install? Might even be nice to have adustable lower links as well to pitch the box for ditch maintenance.

    How do you guys do this? I assume the stock 3-point links are adjustable with tools. (Didn't really look closely at them to tell the truth.)
    -Scott-

    2014 1025R - 60D 7-Iron MMM, H120 53" FEL/Ballast Box, Ken's hooks and Piranha toothbar, BB2048L Boxblade, 54" snowblade Quick-tatch w/full hydraulic lift/tilt.

    You don't have to outrun the bear......just the other campers

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    http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...-tilt-kit.html

    Look at some of the threads in fit-rite section I know there is one some where with a 1 series.

    You can adjust the standard top link "by hand" no tools needed. you would need a wrench for the lift arm adjustment, only one side is adjustable.


    Here is another thread

    http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...rol-valve.html
    Last edited by kabic; 05-15-2014 at 04:10 PM.
    JD 1023E
    KK XB Tiller, XB subsoiler

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    Excellent - thanks
    -Scott-

    2014 1025R - 60D 7-Iron MMM, H120 53" FEL/Ballast Box, Ken's hooks and Piranha toothbar, BB2048L Boxblade, 54" snowblade Quick-tatch w/full hydraulic lift/tilt.

    You don't have to outrun the bear......just the other campers

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    I cant find the thread, but view this 1 series install power point on the fit rite website:


    Top n Tilt for JD 1000 series
    JD 1023E
    KK XB Tiller, XB subsoiler

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    The stock top link requires a wrench to lock in place. When I put on my iMatch I found that the stock top link was too long so I bought a replacement that is about an inch shorter. The replacement, instead of having a hex shaped locknut has a locknut that is elongated so that you can lock in place without the use of a wrench. Not as nice as a hydraulic top link for sure but a heck of a lot cheaper and simpler.

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    Myasis Dragon's Avatar
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    Boxing the blade.

    There's a hill that I'd like to take some of the slope out of using my box blade. I want to cut into the top of the hill and drag the dirt to the bottom of it, making it a bit of a more gentle slope. To do this, I would want the box blade set to cut in aggressively at the top of the hill, move the angle to more of a dragging position as I move down the hill, and then as I reach the bottom, where I want the dirt to end up, I'd want the angle of the box blade to be less, so as to dump and level. Since I don't use the 3ph all that much and I don't want valve handles and an octopus of hoses permanently invading my "cockpit", I think I'd like a top link with a valve and handle right on the link itself. All one would have to do is slap the link on and plug it into the PB. Or, if I wanted to get really creative, I could employ some electrically controlled hydro valves mounted on the link and just run them via a switch on the dash. I think a permanently mounted switch and a wiring harness with a couple of connectors would be much less intrusive. The hardest part would be figuring out what size orifice to use in order to keep the hydraulic movement "tame".
    Just call me Jon, not Myasis Dragon (Hint: My a** is draggin') 2013 1025r FILB (Factory installed loader & Backhoe - 260 & H120), 60D mower w/electric over hydraulic (independent) lift, R4 tires, psrumor's seat springs, Kenny D's bolt-on hooks, bxpanded piranha tooth bar on a 49" bucket and a 61" bucket for snow and light material, County Line post hole digger, County Line landscape rake, counterfeit JD box scraper, homemade 4' x 8' farm wagon, Fimco 30 gallon 3ph sprayer.

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myasis Dragon View Post
    There's a hill that I'd like to take some of the slope out of using my box blade. I want to cut into the top of the hill and drag the dirt to the bottom of it, making it a bit of a more gentle slope.
    You should be able to accomplish this without having to change the angle (once you get it set). The angle which it bites into the earth will change as you go down the hill - at the top it will bite into the ground aggressively then at the bottom when you round out, it won't. It is like going over a mound on flat ground (the crest of the hill) then over a trough (the bottom of the hill). I think the geometry will work in your favor here, no need for anything fancy.
    Last edited by W9GFO; 05-18-2014 at 12:33 AM.
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    rtgt's Avatar
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    You could also do some removal at the top (scarifiers down) and move the dirt to the edge. Then re-adjust the top link, retract the scarifiers, and do the drag and level in the next step.

    I think the non wrench style top link kabic suggested would make this easier.

    Top link mounted controls.....well it is easy to reach on those tractors......
    Myasis Dragon likes this.

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