1026R Broken Again
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    1026R Broken Again

    My 1026R is in the shop again. I am still having problems with the hydraulics. I installed the extra work lights on. After having a leaky top radiator hose, when i turn on my lights the alternator drops down and the engine drop in rpms. It was working fine before the leak. Any thoughts. Is any one having problems with their instrument panel? when i turn on my left or right flasher my temperature gauge goes up and down and my rpm gauge fluctuates.
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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear this.

    Sounds like your electrical problem is fairly serious. I would think only a major draw on the alternator would drag the RPM's down any, but the ICC problems you describe are strange. Did you hook your lights up to the factory wiring for the work lights? What lights did you install?

    I can't think of a single reason why the radiator hose would effect the electrical system unless some coolant got into some wiring somehow??
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    "Is any one having problems with their instrument panel? when i turn on my left or right flasher my temperature gauge goes up and down and my rpm gauge fluctuates."
    Not at all sure about the other electrical stuff, but that key on dashboard proceedure seems like a system "self check". I believe they all do that. Good luck with the rest!
    2013(12) 1026r TLB 54 QH front blade, 54D Auto Connect deck, ballast box, carryall

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    When I added the rear work light JD had to replace the switch for the lights. They said if I ordered the light when new the shop would swap the switch as part of the install. JD knew they were only good to the factory lights and would shell out when extra lights were added. Not sure if this applies to you because my lights would flicker when I touched the switch.

    -636
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

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    1026 r

    The Jd Field rep has informed me i was only supposed to add only the from two lights or two rear lights. It is stated wrong in the sales literature even though my jd dealer called jd factory for Help. I installed two front lights and one back. Iam now out of 325.00 dollars. JD makes a 55 amp alternator, I asked if that would solve the problem and he said he did not know. He refused to call the factory to give me and the dealer an answer. My tractor came back from the shop now my power steering is worse than before.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WOODBURNER View Post
    The Jd Field rep has informed me i was only supposed to add only the from two lights or two rear lights. It is stated wrong in the sales literature even though my jd dealer called jd factory for Help. I installed two front lights and one back. Iam now out of 325.00 dollars. JD makes a 55 amp alternator, I asked if that would solve the problem and he said he did not know. He refused to call the factory to give me and the dealer an answer. My tractor came back from the shop now my power steering is worse than before.
    When I was ordering lights for mine, everything I read said not to install the front work lights and rear work light on the 1026R. This is because it already has the two fender mounted lights and three additional lights adds too much current draw to the charging system. I think both can be added to the 1023E because it doesn't have the fender mounted lights. I may be wrong on that, but definitely not supposed to use both front and rear lights on the 1026. You should to look into purchasing LED lights since they use less amps. You can light it up like a Christmas tree with LEDs.
    I personally don't see a need for the rear light if you add the fronts. You can just spin one or both around to face the rear if you need to see back there. This is probably what you will do anyway unless you put them on a separate switch because they draw bugs like crazy and you will want to spin them away from your face to help keep the bugs out of your face. A separate switch for mine is in my future because they aren't needed unless you are doing loader work at night.
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    636mullet's Avatar
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    If I remember right the 1023E has a smaller alt than the 1026/5R's. Can anyone confirm or deny that?

    -636
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 636mullet View Post
    If I remember right the 1023E has a smaller alt than the 1026/5R's. Can anyone confirm or deny that?

    -636
    1023E/1025r, Both 40 amp. Maybe they were different early on.
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    Quote Originally Posted by WOODBURNER View Post
    The Jd Field rep has informed me i was only supposed to add only the from two lights or two rear lights. It is stated wrong in the sales literature even though my jd dealer called jd factory for Help. I installed two front lights and one back. Iam now out of 325.00 dollars. JD makes a 55 amp alternator, I asked if that would solve the problem and he said he did not know. He refused to call the factory to give me and the dealer an answer. My tractor came back from the shop now my power steering is worse than before.
    I added two more front lights and 1 rear light to my 1025. The front are LED's connected to the factory switch. I am am pleased with how much better I see with a loader on the front now at night than what I could before. The same is probably true with any front implement. The low mounted factory lights made it hard to see at night when a person has front implements on the tractor.

    I actually am surprised how much I use the rear light. It is connected to the accessory/lighter line. It is on a dedicated switch mounted under the tool box for protection. It has made a world of difference hooking an unhooking implements in the dark, backing up and just plane seeing behind me in the dark when using implements. I wouldn't want to be without it now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
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    In the photos above, did you fabricate the light guards yourself or were you able to purchase them?

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