Removing ROPS?
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    Removing ROPS?

    Has anyone actually removed the ROPS? I understand its purpose, but I will be mowing around about 20 acres of apple trees. Hitting the branches there is lost profit....

    On the previous Kubotas it has been a simple 8 bolts and its off. I didn't get a close look at it but the Deere looks more integrated.

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    fdmars's Avatar
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    Can you get a folding ROPS?

    The safety police will go nuts on this....just saying!!!
    2009 JD 2305 w/ Femco folding ROPS,Power Beyond Kit, KBOH, 54"MMM, 47" Snowblower, 200CX Loader w/ BB, Powerhorse 12 ton Logsplitter and King Kutter tool carrier and 17P kart
    2009 Cub Cadet/Yanmar ex3200, Land Pride 60” land plane and 60” finish mower, worksaver posthole digger w/ 9” auger, “The thumb” add on grapple, third function valve and KBOH of course

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    Adamq's Avatar
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    The 1 series tractor the ROPS is a integrated piece to the frame of the tractor. Not sure on the older machines. I have seen a few people knock the pins out and then there is just the two bars sticking up.
    2019 2025R, H120 Loader, 260b Backhoe, 47 QH Snow BLower, EL23 Kuhn Tiller, I-match, Heavy Hitch and misc. attachments

    2016 X758, 54" HC mower, Quick Hitch, 60" blade, 3 pt hitch

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    I should have mentioned, I'm talking about my new 1025R.

    Shame that it can't be removed. That bit of knowledge may have swayed me to the Orange side (had I thought to ask before I bought it). I'll have to see how it goes I guess.

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    ejb69's Avatar
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    If all your doing is mowing a x7xx may have been a better choice as they don't have the ROP and are fine mowers.
    Eric

    2011 1026R / H120 / 60D auto-connect, independent-lift mmm / 54" snowblower / 4' KK Pro rotary mower / KK 4' tiller

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    If all I was planning to do was mow, I would have kept the LA145 I already had. Did a fine job mowing and cost about 9 times less...

    It's fine, I'll just have to be extra careful. What is the width of the ROPS? maybe with the 60" deck it won't even be a problem.

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    rgd
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    Personally...I think you'll be fine running without the rops, if the work you do requires it. And it sounds like it does, I cant see how the rops would need to be attached to keep the frame from flexing.If that was the case, then I would just have a 2"x2" x 1/4" wall piece welded that went straight from mount to mount....that would make it even more sturdy and cut out the giant loop of the rops. I believe there is already a frame piece put in from the factory that does what I just described. I say take it off....and save your profits in your orchard.
    etcallhome likes this.
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    Ultrapile's Avatar
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    The 1025r does still have the folding ROPS doesn't it? My 1025 has it. If it does, I guess you are not gaining enough clearance by folding it down? If you do not have a backhoe it can be folded down to the horizontal position and relocate the lights to the inside of the posts for protection. Or as Adamq suggested! the top is easy to remove and can be reinstalled when needed (ahead of time of course).
    Kenny
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    Also: Ford 9n, Massy Ferguson 231 & 231s, Zeter 7711 and a Mahindra 3525

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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    This is the ROPS breakdown on JD Parts. I don't see any structural reason it couldn't be removed here. As to remove it or not, every situation is different. We have a member on this board who probably owes his life to having the ROPS up on his 1 series when his tractor rolled over, and it makes a handy place to mount extra lights or even a canopy to keep the sun off. I know folks have removed the top portion and cut down the lower legs so they could retain the lights mounted there without having the entire ROPS as well. It all just depends on where you need to operate, what kind of work you're doing, and the amount of risk you're willing to take. Every situation is different.

    I would suggest you try it with the ROPS in place and see how/ where it fits first, and make your decision from there.



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    Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS
    1 ...... ROPS 1
    2 SJ288434 Pin 2
    3 U17408 Ring 2
    4 LVU21409 Bracket 1 Support
    5 19M7809 Bolt 2
    6 14M7296 Flange Nut 2 M10
    7 19M7790 Bolt 4
    8 19M7793 Bolt 2
    9 14M7299 Flange Nut 2 M12
    10 LVA18488 Support 1
    Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS
    11 14M7299 Flange Nut 6 M12
    12 14M7486 Nut 2 M22
    13 19M7844 Bolt 4
    14 LVU24132 Plate 2
    15 19M8456 Bolt 2
    16 LVU24788 Bolt 6 M12 X 40
    17 LVU22165 Pin 2
    18 LVA18169 ROPS 1 Domestic
    19 LVU24620BLE Bracket 2 Not Illustrated, Light Mounting - Painted
    20 LVU12447 Tie Band 4 Not Illustrated
    Cart key PART NO. PART NAME QTY SERIAL NO. REMARKS
    21 LVU24924 U-Bolt 2 Not Illustrated
    22 LVU27021BLE Plate 2 Not Illustrated, FILB Light support Backing
    23 14M7397 Lock Nut 4 M6 Not Illustrated
    24 19M7866 Screw 4 M8 X 20 Not Illustrated
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    Thanks. It looks a little involved to remove, but I think the advice to try it first to see how it goes is spot on. I'll just have to see. Most of the orchard is dwarf trees at this point, which are not nearly as wide as a standard tree.

    Thanks for the help.

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