Autoconnect receiver tipped up
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Thread: Autoconnect receiver tipped up

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    Autoconnect receiver tipped up

    Hi all, my dealer did a great job adjusting and setting up my autoconnect at the time of purchase. I removed the deck and when I went to put it back on I noticed the autoconnect receiver was not connecting with the driveshaft on the mower. The receiver on the tractor side (between the lift arms) seems to be tilted UP, and also seems to be limited in its motion by an adjustment bolt (is tight) the driveshaft on the tractor itself. This is very unusual and I've had at least a dozen successful reattaches on the mower. Who knows whats up?

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    ErikR's Avatar
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    WE love pictures, it makes it easier to help. That being said, is this what your auto-connect coupler is looking like????

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sometimes the pto shaft gets a nick or a bur and it tends to stick in the compressed/retracted position. It should be free to move and drop down when you go to install the deck. If it's hanging up, the coupler gets out of position.

    PTO shafts.... retracted and extended...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Reach under the tractor and remove the PTO shaft from the spline... Can you pull the shaft back and make it longer? Knock any burs off with a file and grease it well...

    Oh, one more thing... When you go to reattach the PTO shaft to the spline, after you have it in place, pull on it hard to make sure it's secure!!. You don't want the shaft to come off the spline and go flailing about under the tractor... BAD things can happen!!
    2014 1025R, H120 loader w/53" bucket and Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar, 54" Auto Connect MMM, 47" QH snow blower, Ballast box and loaded rear tires, Speeco Quick Hitch, Ken's Bolt-on Grab Hooks, King Kutter Carry All, 54" front QH blade w/Heavy Hitch skids, Titan 36" pallet forks, Land Pride GS0560 Grading Scraper, and chrome (kitchen drain pipe) exhaust tip!!

    1950 Allis-Chalmers B, Electric start, PTO, Belt Pulley, Hydraulic pump. Stuck engine (a work in progress)

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    I found that when mine was tipped up as pictured that I had failed to completely loosen the knob adjusting the three point hitch drop rate. It kept the three point from dropping all the way down and the female connector to the mower gearbox stayed tipped , preventing mating.

    Gravity will eventually cause the 3 pt and autoconnect to lower all the way down, but it may take quite a while if the drop rate control is really tight, especially if there is not a heavy implement hanging off the 3 pt.
    Last edited by RetiredDoc; 12-03-2017 at 11:08 PM.
    1025R, H120 FEL, 60D MMM, Rhinohide canopy, iMatch, Frontier BB2060L, SS1067, RC2048, Heavy Hitch front weight carrier, subsoiler, trash bin carrier, rear hitch plate, Titan ballast box, 42 inch forks, Tarter chain harrow, Yard Tuff arena drag, DragnFly Arena Groomer, Newer Model 225 manure spreader, Ken's bucket hooks, Piranha tooth bar, Fimco 40 gallon 3pt boom sprayer,

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    Quote Originally Posted by RetiredDoc View Post
    I found that when mine was tipped up as pictured that I had failed to completely loosen the knob adjusting the three point hitch drop rate. It kept the three point from dropping all the way down and the female connector to the mower gearbox stayed tipped , preventing mating.

    Gravity will eventually cause the 3 pt and autoconnect to lower all the way down, but it may take quite a while if the drop rate control is really tight, especially if there is not a heavy implement hanging off the 3 pt.
    Thanks Doc! It's funny the things we learn by trial and error.

    Incidentally, I have an independent hydraulic lift so mine has nothing to do with my 3 pt

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    Erik, thanks for the comprehensive response! I suspect your answer is correct, the shaft did seem restricted in its motion, as if it wasn't fully lengthening. This actually starting happening after attempting to autoconnect and the deck was on unlevel ground

    I wanted to provide pics, took my phone out for the pic, and my phone died - I was a victim of the iPhone IOS upgrade bug that causes the phone to constantly restart and kill the battery.

    - I ended up pushing it for a way with the pto shaft connected but I believe the lift arms were not fully engaged.

    Is this something I should access in its current position, or should I remove the whole mechanism so I can get it on a bench? Any tips for getting it unstuck? I've never greased this shaft, wonder if dealer did during the 50 hr break in service, I can see how grease would definitely be needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by ErikR View Post
    WE love pictures, it makes it easier to help. That being said, is this what your auto-connect coupler is looking like????

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	132 
Size:	38.6 KB 
ID:	500762


    Sometimes the pto shaft gets a nick or a bur and it tends to stick in the compressed/retracted position. It should be free to move and drop down when you go to install the deck. If it's hanging up, the coupler gets out of position.

    PTO shafts.... retracted and extended...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF7152.JPG 
Views:	134 
Size:	48.4 KB 
ID:	500770

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSCF7151.JPG 
Views:	134 
Size:	46.9 KB 
ID:	500778

    Reach under the tractor and remove the PTO shaft from the spline... Can you pull the shaft back and make it longer? Knock any burs off with a file and grease it well...

    Oh, one more thing... When you go to reattach the PTO shaft to the spline, after you have it in place, pull on it hard to make sure it's secure!!. You don't want the shaft to come off the spline and go flailing about under the tractor... BAD things can happen!!

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    ErikR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jermedic View Post
    Erik, thanks for the comprehensive response! I suspect your answer is correct, the shaft did seem restricted in its motion, as if it wasn't fully lengthening. This actually starting happening after attempting to autoconnect and the deck was on unlevel ground

    I wanted to provide pics, took my phone out for the pic, and my phone died - I was a victim of the iPhone IOS upgrade bug that causes the phone to constantly restart and kill the battery.

    - I ended up pushing it for a way with the pto shaft connected but I believe the lift arms were not fully engaged.

    Is this something I should access in its current position, or should I remove the whole mechanism so I can get it on a bench? Any tips for getting it unstuck? I've never greased this shaft, wonder if dealer did during the 50 hr break in service, I can see how grease would definitely be needed.
    I guess I would try and disconnect the shaft from the spline first, and then see it I could pull/yank/tug it free. If it's being stubborn, you may have to pull the 4 pins that hold the lift mechanism in place, drop it on the floor, and then deal with it... Be careful not to turn the turnbuckles, they are key to your deck's adjustment. Also, note which way they're installed so they go back on the same way. Maybe take a "before" pic for your self....

    Sometimes the front half of the shaft, the one that slides into the rear,, will develop a burr on the back side from bottoming out and hitting the back of the u-joint yolk.

    Here are a couple of pics. You can see the square inner shaft.... No guarantees that this is your problem, but it's where I'd start. Also, get the grease gun out and hit everything!

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    Tomfive, Levi and SulleyBear like this.
    2014 1025R, H120 loader w/53" bucket and Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar, 54" Auto Connect MMM, 47" QH snow blower, Ballast box and loaded rear tires, Speeco Quick Hitch, Ken's Bolt-on Grab Hooks, King Kutter Carry All, 54" front QH blade w/Heavy Hitch skids, Titan 36" pallet forks, Land Pride GS0560 Grading Scraper, and chrome (kitchen drain pipe) exhaust tip!!

    1950 Allis-Chalmers B, Electric start, PTO, Belt Pulley, Hydraulic pump. Stuck engine (a work in progress)

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    Off on a tangent here, but with a hydraulic MMM lift, what controls the speed that the deck lowers? Does it just free drop via gravity, or is it slowly lowered by regulated release of hydraulic pressure to allow gravity to more slowly drop the mower deck, or is there downward hydraulic pressure generated to force the deck down, or something else?

    Just asking to further my own knowledge. Thanks.
    1025R, H120 FEL, 60D MMM, Rhinohide canopy, iMatch, Frontier BB2060L, SS1067, RC2048, Heavy Hitch front weight carrier, subsoiler, trash bin carrier, rear hitch plate, Titan ballast box, 42 inch forks, Tarter chain harrow, Yard Tuff arena drag, DragnFly Arena Groomer, Newer Model 225 manure spreader, Ken's bucket hooks, Piranha tooth bar, Fimco 40 gallon 3pt boom sprayer,

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    Quote Originally Posted by RetiredDoc View Post
    Off on a tangent here, but with a hydraulic MMM lift, what controls the speed that the deck lowers? Does it just free drop via gravity, or is it slowly lowered by regulated release of hydraulic pressure to allow gravity to more slowly drop the mower deck, or is there downward hydraulic pressure generated to force the deck down, or something else?

    Just asking to further my own knowledge. Thanks.
    There is an orifice (restrictor plate) located in the fitting at the cylinder connection with a really tiny hole (don't have the spec handy) that restricts flow both ways - also keeps the deck from slamming UP real fast.
    Tomfive and PJR832 like this.
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    - JD 1025R, R4's, H120 FEL w/ Kens Bolt-on Grab Hook/Clevis combo (awesome!), 60" autoconnect MMM, 36" forks

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    Quote Originally Posted by jermedic View Post
    Erik, thanks for the comprehensive response! I suspect your answer is correct, the shaft did seem restricted in its motion, as if it wasn't fully lengthening. This actually starting happening after attempting to autoconnect and the deck was on unlevel ground

    I wanted to provide pics, took my phone out for the pic, and my phone died - I was a victim of the iPhone IOS upgrade bug that causes the phone to constantly restart and kill the battery.

    - I ended up pushing it for a way with the pto shaft connected but I believe the lift arms were not fully engaged.

    Is this something I should access in its current position, or should I remove the whole mechanism so I can get it on a bench? Any tips for getting it unstuck? I've never greased this shaft, wonder if dealer did during the 50 hr break in service, I can see how grease would definitely be needed.
    I'll bet the farm, this is the problem. Had the exact same thing happen. Drop the whole carriage, its only 4 pins and take it to the bench. Remove the set screw. I needed to hammer them apart using a block of wood. Give the end of the shaft a good going over with a flat file held at a45 degree to the edge. Grease and reassemble. 10 minute fix.

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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    Auto connect issues

    What a great thread, great pictures and solutions!

    Mine came set up wrong, sent it back for another problem and it came back the 2nd time wrong.

    Fortunately Green Tractor Talk has great commentary and pictures of the set up and I finally figured my problem out from the pictures and diagrams provided by other members. It took me two tries but mine needed adjusted over an inch DOWN to line up and when I got it set up correctly it connects every time perfectly.

    Kudos to this message board of committed, passionate members helping each other overcome issues that develop in the compact tractor line.
    Tomfive, ErikR, joshn3448 and 1 others like this.
    2016 John Deere 1025R, H120 FEL, 60D MMM Auto Connect, 54" Hydraulic Articulating Front Blade w/ Blade Extensions, 42" Land Pride Tiller, Seat Spring Upgrades by KennyD, 42 Gallon Fimco Sprayer w/ Greenleaf Asymetrical Nozzles and 12' spray boom, Poulan 14" Chain Saw, Edge R Rite Lawn Edger, Echo SM-225 String Trimmer.

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