Original Tractor Cab with remote chute cap control
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Thread: Original Tractor Cab with remote chute cap control

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    Original Tractor Cab with remote chute cap control

    Does anybody have the OTC with the remote chute cap control? I recently purchased and installed the OTC and suspected this would be an issue. There is a big gap on the left side of the tractor where the vinyl is held away from the tractor by the chute cable and arm. Thought I would see if anybody had come up with a solution for this before I try to fabricate something.

    Side question. They threw in a 12v heater. I looked around at some options on where to put the thing and decided to just not bother as of this point. Anybody want to chime in on where they put theirs if they have one?
    wildbranch2007, PJR832 and rw580 like this.
    2017 1025R sporting turfs, 54" snowblower with remote chute kit, 54" auto connect MMM with mulch kit, H120 loader, 42" Titan forks, coolant heater and Original Tractor Cab.

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    Daveb's Avatar
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    I have the OTC cab and it came with a bracket that clamped to the tube below the windshield for the cable housing to mount into. I only have one picture that shows where it is located at this time and I'm not at home for another day or two to take any more pictures. I just had to cut a small hole in the vinyl front panel to put the cable end through.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moxified View Post

    Side question. They threw in a 12v heater. I looked around at some options on where to put the thing and decided to just not bother as of this point. Anybody want to chime in on where they put theirs if they have one?
    I haven't opened the box on the heater yet, waiting on the picture above to see where to put it. Question to the others that installed this, the quality of the nuts and bolts provided were so bad that I stripped the first two bolts I tried to use, and I had tried all the nuts on all the bolts first and none of them would go on. I ended up spending $15.00 and buying SS bolts locally, the nuts from the SS bolts would work on the provided bolts. Any one else have a problem? I called their support number, left my information and never received a call back. Cab is nice, just a shame they didn't spend 8 or 10 dollars and include bolts that would work.
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    2025r fel snowblower

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    This is how I installed the cable on a 2720 with an Original Cab.
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    Thanks for the replies! These are 2 series though. I know they are similar but I assume the cab frame is somewhat different and would assume roomier. I like the idea of bolting directly to the cab frame and ditching the long metal arm(which was bent and touched the hood when received). I'll have a look at mine and see if there is some similar way I could do that. I do find that the cable has a little more resistance than I expected and therefore it needs to be well supported.
    2017 1025R sporting turfs, 54" snowblower with remote chute kit, 54" auto connect MMM with mulch kit, H120 loader, 42" Titan forks, coolant heater and Original Tractor Cab.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Moxified View Post
    Does anybody have the OTC with the remote chute cap control? I recently purchased and installed the OTC and suspected this would be an issue. There is a big gap on the left side of the tractor where the vinyl is held away from the tractor by the chute cable and arm. Thought I would see if anybody had come up with a solution for this before I try to fabricate something.

    Side question. They threw in a 12v heater. I looked around at some options on where to put the thing and decided to just not bother as of this point. Anybody want to chime in on where they put theirs if they have one?
    The tractor has a 40amp alternator stock from John Deere and you can get a 55 Amp alternator for about $300 for the greater amperage output. Often, when owners are adding a cab, this is something which is encouraged because of the likely additional demand a cab can create with lights, wipers, heaters, etc. The good news in most of the new LED lights have a very low amp draw. But they do start to add up when the number of lights increases.

    Personally, I would be very wary of using the "free Heater" without creating my own wiring harness with a really good fuse and power wire and control switch. My concern is that the heater will likely have a lot of amp draw and depending upon any other electrical demand on your tractor, the "free heater" could end up being very costly if it destroys your alternator or damages the electrical system.

    Many of the items I am seeing imported from China are starting to get better in quality. Some, are actually impressive in their quality and use of good components, but many still are not of the quality I would want to use. If you feel comfortable with the heater and it's actual demands of power when wired into the system the by all means use it.

    I would suggest putting it above the operator pedals to the right of the throttle lever as heat rises and you want the windshield clear. That side of the tractor is usually not the primary access to getting on and off the tractor, so the heater being on that side is less likely to be in your way.

    I have known many people who used 12 volt electrical heaters and ended up with issues of either damaged wiring or it overloads their charging system. If you have a means to load test the actual draw by the heater when it's operating and can confirm how much power it uses, then I would feel better about using the electric heater in the cab.
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildbranch2007 View Post
    I haven't opened the box on the heater yet, waiting on the picture above to see where to put it. Question to the others that installed this, the quality of the nuts and bolts provided were so bad that I stripped the first two bolts I tried to use, and I had tried all the nuts on all the bolts first and none of them would go on. I ended up spending $15.00 and buying SS bolts locally, the nuts from the SS bolts would work on the provided bolts. Any one else have a problem? I called their support number, left my information and never received a call back. Cab is nice, just a shame they didn't spend 8 or 10 dollars and include bolts that would work.
    I just finished installing my OT-Cab on my 1023E I know it maybe a little different from your cab but the problem you were having with the bolts and nuts if what you are referring to is the nut threads onto the bolt one turn or so that’s because they are locking nuts made that way so they don’t come loose.


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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    The tractor has a 40amp alternator stock from John Deere and you can get a 55 Amp alternator for about $300 for the greater amperage output. Often, when owners are adding a cab, this is something which is encouraged because of the likely additional demand a cab can create with lights, wipers, heaters, etc. The good news in most of the new LED lights have a very low amp draw. But they do start to add up when the number of lights increases.

    Personally, I would be very wary of using the "free Heater" without creating my own wiring harness with a really good fuse and power wire and control switch. My concern is that the heater will likely have a lot of amp draw and depending upon any other electrical demand on your tractor, the "free heater" could end up being very costly if it destroys your alternator or damages the electrical system.

    Many of the items I am seeing imported from China are starting to get better in quality. Some, are actually impressive in their quality and use of good components, but many still are not of the quality I would want to use. If you feel comfortable with the heater and it's actual demands of power when wired into the system the by all means use it.

    I would suggest putting it above the operator pedals to the right of the throttle lever as heat rises and you want the windshield clear. That side of the tractor is usually not the primary access to getting on and off the tractor, so the heater being on that side is less likely to be in your way.

    I have known many people who used 12 volt electrical heaters and ended up with issues of either damaged wiring or it overloads their charging system. If you have a means to load test the actual draw by the heater when it's operating and can confirm how much power it uses, then I would feel better about using the electric heater in the cab.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is how I mounted my heater top right corner, also put a separate power switch and inline fuse the switch is to kill power to heater when not in use because there is a led light that stays on all the time when wired detect. Click image for larger version. 

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    You also may want to do away with the cable and go power to operate the chute, the one I’m using is wireless it uses a key fob so that would solve your issue with your cab.



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