Well Iíve been busy over the last little while personalizing my 1025r to suit my needs and Iíd like to show you some of the results.
Some of the things that Iíve done that have been covered here repeatedly and are well documented on the site so Iíll spare the pictures for.
-KBOHís seat springs
-KBOHís diff lock pedal
-JD block heater
-JD power beyond lines
-rear tire chains on the r4s
One of the first items I installed was this NOCO charge port and batt indicator in the knockout under the steering column. It popped in like it was built for it. The cables run up to the battery and are almost perfect in length. Now when sitting parked unused for any period of time I connect my 1.1a NOCO batt maintainer. All of this stuff was bought off of amazon and despite all the love here for the battery tender products Iíve had zero complaints about this product so far.
I should preface this but noting I work in a Hot Rod/Muscle Car/Racear fab shop and have access to some fantastic tools that made these mods possible. While I primarily handle the mechanical/tuning/electrical/and planning aspects of the projects at work, I do have formal welding and fabrication training and plenty of experience. One of my co-workers is an absolute wizard at turning napkin scribbles and my cobbled CAD drawings into a tangible product and he was instrumental in the design of the brackets required for these projects. Also our shop ďneighboursĒ a sandblast and powder coat facility which gratefully handled all the coatings in this project.
Short ROPS and Lightbars
From day one I vowed to not join ďthe clubĒ and one of my first planned mods was to build a shorter upper ROPS half. I used 2Ē DOM .125 wall round tubing for the hoop and had some 3/16 plate CNC plasma cut and bent to mimic JDs pivots but accommodate the round tubing. This new upper half folds and functions as the JD original and everything done could be returned to original by knocking out the pins and swapping upper halfís.
Now that it can enter a 7í door it was time to add some lights. I CAD designed a bracket to accommodate 2 21.5 led combo light bars, one facing forward and one reward. I bought one from our suppliers and one from amazon. The performance difference between the two is negligible and the amazon one was 10% of the cost. Perhaps longevity will be the determining factor between the two price points. They share the same mounting footprint so future replacement will not be an issue. I procured some 2Ē round alum clamps designed to hang ballast off of dirt track cars and used them to provide a mounting point for my bracket. Wiring runs through the ROPS to some waterproof relays.
As you can probably tell Iím not one to drill holes all over the place and perform irreversible damage to one of my prized possessions Now I really wanted to independently control both light bars and as you all know space is at an absolute premium. After some careful consideration I came up with this solution. I used a piece of thin wall 2Ē stainless square tubing about 6.5Ē long cut open the top and inserted the switches into a bolt on top plate. I machined an aluminum spacer for below the box to create a flat spot for mounting and the ends of the tubing rest on the depression in the fender. A couple of plastic caps from McMaster Carr and the box is sealed. A 5 wire 18 awg control cable activates the remote mounted waterproof relays.
3-6 SCV valve install
With some guidance from Brian at fit rite, Trausch Dynamics and comparing installs documented online. Using existing holes and a CAD designed mounting plate and spacers I installed a stack of 4 scvís to the right rear side of the the rops. Using continental hoses and fittings sourced from a local dealer I connected to the previously installed power beyond ports. I donít plan on ever getting a backhoe for this machine so unlike other installs my valve mounts with the valve pressure ports to the rear. I originally planned on threading the 1/2 QCís directly into the valve with a ORB adapter..in an attempt to limit the amount of connections and potential failure points..but the spacing on theses valves doesnít permit it. Hence the cobbled angled mess you see in the pictures. I have smaller diameter QCís ordered but I havenít installed them yet. Iím planning on using 1 valve for my mower lift, 1 for my blower chute rotation (and maybe a Hyd dump trailer) and the other 2 for a future top and tilt kit. Iíve only got a single handle installed for the chute rotation right now in attempt to make operation in cold weather gear easier.
Espar heater install
The final piece to my winter preparedness puzzle is a espar diesel fired coolant heater. Now for those that have never heard of this before its common practice to install these on equipment in cold weather climates. Essentially it uses a small amount of diesel from the tank to fire a self contained burner that heats coolant that is pumped through the heater. I elected to plumb my espar using the metric o-ring port on the left front of the engine and the bspt port on the water pump. The hoses on the espar unit are 3/4Ē so this necessitated the need for some adapter fittings. My research led me to four seasons for a low profile 3/8 npt to 3/4 Hose adapter. The coolant leaves the fitting on the left side of the engine (metric O-ring adapter to 3/8npt to 3/4 hose).....into the espar coolant pump (which I mounted under the tractor below the steering column).....from the pump through the heater then back to the bspt adapter on the engine water pump(this fitting is a tig welded hybrid of the four seasons fitting and a bspt-npt adapter. This was required as the stack height of the adapters was too tall. The port on the water pump is angled slightly rearward and the hose then interferes with the valve cover). Hoses with molded 90 degree ends prevented them from being the highest point in the system and introducing the potential for an air lock. Both hoses run along the oil pan in hopes of introducing some heat into the oil. There is a small electric fuel pump which I mounted under the left footboard. I ďtídĒ into the fuel line at this point. The electrical for the heater is self contained and requires only a power and ground which I elected to connect at the starter solenoid. I mounted the heater to a CAD designed bracket using existing holes in the horizontal bar tying the rops together. I plan to build a box to protect the heater next. The heater exhaust exits through a convoluted stainless tube that I have aimed at the rear diff housing/hydraulic pump reservoir in an attempt to warm it as well. I opted for a wifi controller which allows full control from a smartphone or laptop when itís within range. Heater run times can be scheduled on a 7 day 24 hour schedule or it can be turned on manually with a smartphone. I havenít permanently mounted the wifi controller as Iím trying to determine the best place for wifi connectivity inside my house. The tractor is parked inside a building with an open rafter system and adequate ventilation. The walls are only partially insulated so it can really only be considered a wind break. Yesterday it was -41 degrees Celsius or -41.8f. I turned on the heater at 5:45 pm and let it run for 90 mins when I went to start the tractor the temp gauge was at the 1/3 point and it started like it was summer
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