Here are some pictures of LED lights that I mounted on my 1025R using Magnets. I kept everything so that it is "plug and play" and can all be removed no problem if need be;
Reverse Light- I purchased a heavy magnet and a 36 watt LED light from Amazon and simply mounted light to magnet, and then put assembly on the plate under the tool box at the back of tractor. The beauty of the magnet is you can play around with the position of light until you are happy, it has never moved a bit. For power, I tied into one of the factory purple wires located at the back of tractor, which are already prewired into the farthest right position on the light switch. The light doesn't interfere with any attachments at the rear of the tractor in this location, and gives way more then enough light. I personally think it also looks really nice (and factory) in that location. (I apologize that I didn't really get a good picture standing back a few feet from tractor, to give you a better look)
Driving lights mounted on bottom of ROPS-This project was a lot more work and planning. I ordered a lighted rocker switch that mounted in the square knock out on dash, 2 more 36 watt LED driving lights and two more magnets from Amazon. I then picked up the fuse block tie adaptor and wiring etc. locally. I wanted to keep these lights on a separate switch because they put out way to much light if it is snowing hard, you are pointed at a car or a neighbor's house etc. I don't ever like to cut into factory wiring, so I found a fused, plug in power adaptor, at local automotive store which worked awesome. I ran power from fuse box over to rocker switch located in factory knock out on dash, then ran wires under tractor. I had the 1025R up on my hoist and it was still a terrible job running this loomed wire to the rear of the tractor. I tried to follow the factory wires routing, but it was so tight that you had to zap strap almost every 6" to ensure that nothing rubs on anything on the tractor.(John Deere uses every inch of that under carriage) I always ensure that I use nylon wire loom and shrink connectors at every joint. I also installed a plug connector in order to be able to fold down ROPS and also a plug connector at the driving lights in case I ever want to remove. Once I was happy with how lights were aimed, I put zap straps to be safe, just in case I caught a tree branch or something like that. I also updated every single bulb on the tractor to LED, to ensure that I was not overloading the system. I strongly suspect that I was okay, but did not want to take any chances. The switch is always lighted on the dash so you can see at night, and when you turn it on, a second light comes on at the top of switch, works really well.
Garage Doors Operator-For those of you who notice, I used Velcro to mount a 3 door operator on the dash of tractor. That way, if I was washing tractor I could remove. This works really well too because I have 3 garage doors and tend to use them all with the 1025R.
I did take a lot of pictures, so if anyone wants a specific picture of any area/item, let me know and I should be able to add to this post. I spent a few weeks reading websites (mainly this one) to get most of my ideas, so thought I would post the whole LED light project, so that it was all together. I am very happy with the results and hope this helps anyone thinking of doing a similar type project.