1025R LED Lights installation-Magnetic-ROPS and Reverse lights.
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    1025R LED Lights installation-Magnetic-ROPS and Reverse lights.

    Here are some pictures of LED lights that I mounted on my 1025R using Magnets. I kept everything so that it is "plug and play" and can all be removed no problem if need be;

    Reverse Light- I purchased a heavy magnet and a 36 watt LED light from Amazon and simply mounted light to magnet, and then put assembly on the plate under the tool box at the back of tractor. The beauty of the magnet is you can play around with the position of light until you are happy, it has never moved a bit. For power, I tied into one of the factory purple wires located at the back of tractor, which are already prewired into the farthest right position on the light switch. The light doesn't interfere with any attachments at the rear of the tractor in this location, and gives way more then enough light. I personally think it also looks really nice (and factory) in that location. (I apologize that I didn't really get a good picture standing back a few feet from tractor, to give you a better look)

    Driving lights mounted on bottom of ROPS-This project was a lot more work and planning. I ordered a lighted rocker switch that mounted in the square knock out on dash, 2 more 36 watt LED driving lights and two more magnets from Amazon. I then picked up the fuse block tie adaptor and wiring etc. locally. I wanted to keep these lights on a separate switch because they put out way to much light if it is snowing hard, you are pointed at a car or a neighbor's house etc. I don't ever like to cut into factory wiring, so I found a fused, plug in power adaptor, at local automotive store which worked awesome. I ran power from fuse box over to rocker switch located in factory knock out on dash, then ran wires under tractor. I had the 1025R up on my hoist and it was still a terrible job running this loomed wire to the rear of the tractor. I tried to follow the factory wires routing, but it was so tight that you had to zap strap almost every 6" to ensure that nothing rubs on anything on the tractor.(John Deere uses every inch of that under carriage) I always ensure that I use nylon wire loom and shrink connectors at every joint. I also installed a plug connector in order to be able to fold down ROPS and also a plug connector at the driving lights in case I ever want to remove. Once I was happy with how lights were aimed, I put zap straps to be safe, just in case I caught a tree branch or something like that. I also updated every single bulb on the tractor to LED, to ensure that I was not overloading the system. I strongly suspect that I was okay, but did not want to take any chances. The switch is always lighted on the dash so you can see at night, and when you turn it on, a second light comes on at the top of switch, works really well.

    Garage Doors Operator-For those of you who notice, I used Velcro to mount a 3 door operator on the dash of tractor. That way, if I was washing tractor I could remove. This works really well too because I have 3 garage doors and tend to use them all with the 1025R.

    I did take a lot of pictures, so if anyone wants a specific picture of any area/item, let me know and I should be able to add to this post. I spent a few weeks reading websites (mainly this one) to get most of my ideas, so thought I would post the whole LED light project, so that it was all together. I am very happy with the results and hope this helps anyone thinking of doing a similar type project.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180106_093316_resized.jpg   20180106_093439_resized.jpg   20180106_094219_resized.jpg   20171203_160154_resized_1.jpg   20180106_093200_resized.jpg  

    20180106_093204_resized.jpg   20180106_093155_resized.jpg   20180106_093042_resized.jpg   20180106_093025_resized.jpg   20180106_093335_resized.jpg  


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    More pictures-Here is a better picture of back of 1025r and a few other project "detail pictures"
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180106_101407_resized.jpg   20170703_160743_resized.jpg   20180106_094149_resized.jpg   20180106_094106_resized.jpg   20180106_094010_resized.jpg  

    20180106_093957_resized.jpg   20180106_094407_resized.jpg   20180106_094400_resized.jpg  

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    Thanks for the post. This is one of the mods that I am planning for this summer. I like how you tied into the fuse block.
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    Are those stock tires? Why do they look so big?
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    I was thinking about something like this for the mechanically challenged guys. $20.00 on Ebay.


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    Magnet Question

    Quote Originally Posted by gt390 View Post
    Here are some pictures of LED lights that I mounted on my 1025R using Magnets. I kept everything so that it is "plug and play" and can all be removed no problem if need be;

    Reverse Light- I purchased a heavy magnet and a 36 watt LED light from Amazon and simply mounted light to magnet, and then put assembly on the plate under the tool box at the back of tractor. The beauty of the magnet is you can play around with the position of light until you are happy, it has never moved a bit. For power, I tied into one of the factory purple wires located at the back of tractor, which are already prewired into the farthest right position on the light switch. The light doesn't interfere with any attachments at the rear of the tractor in this location, and gives way more then enough light. I personally think it also looks really nice (and factory) in that location. (I apologize that I didn't really get a good picture standing back a few feet from tractor, to give you a better look)

    Driving lights mounted on bottom of ROPS-This project was a lot more work and planning. I ordered a lighted rocker switch that mounted in the square knock out on dash, 2 more 36 watt LED driving lights and two more magnets from Amazon. I then picked up the fuse block tie adaptor and wiring etc. locally. I wanted to keep these lights on a separate switch because they put out way to much light if it is snowing hard, you are pointed at a car or a neighbor's house etc. I don't ever like to cut into factory wiring, so I found a fused, plug in power adaptor, at local automotive store which worked awesome. I ran power from fuse box over to rocker switch located in factory knock out on dash, then ran wires under tractor. I had the 1025R up on my hoist and it was still a terrible job running this loomed wire to the rear of the tractor. I tried to follow the factory wires routing, but it was so tight that you had to zap strap almost every 6" to ensure that nothing rubs on anything on the tractor.(John Deere uses every inch of that under carriage) I always ensure that I use nylon wire loom and shrink connectors at every joint. I also installed a plug connector in order to be able to fold down ROPS and also a plug connector at the driving lights in case I ever want to remove. Once I was happy with how lights were aimed, I put zap straps to be safe, just in case I caught a tree branch or something like that. I also updated every single bulb on the tractor to LED, to ensure that I was not overloading the system. I strongly suspect that I was okay, but did not want to take any chances. The switch is always lighted on the dash so you can see at night, and when you turn it on, a second light comes on at the top of switch, works really well.

    Garage Doors Operator-For those of you who notice, I used Velcro to mount a 3 door operator on the dash of tractor. That way, if I was washing tractor I could remove. This works really well too because I have 3 garage doors and tend to use them all with the 1025R.

    I did take a lot of pictures, so if anyone wants a specific picture of any area/item, let me know and I should be able to add to this post. I spent a few weeks reading websites (mainly this one) to get most of my ideas, so thought I would post the whole LED light project, so that it was all together. I am very happy with the results and hope this helps anyone thinking of doing a similar type project.


    Thanks for the summary and the pictures. I tried to do this in the past with a magnet too but was unable to get any sort of glue to hold the LED light bracket to the magnet. How did you mount the light to the magnet? That would be great information. Also, can you provide details ont he magnet you got from Amazon? Thanks so much for your work - looks great and it really helps especially when backing up.
    2016 1025R with FEL and 53" bucket, 54" Ratchet Rake, 54" Mid Mount Mower with Quick Attachment, iMatch, 14 CU Material Collection Attachment and blower, 60" Blade, iMatch, Jamieson Bryce iMatch attachment, 125 pound Electric spreader with iMatch bracket

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    Quote Originally Posted by Romans828 View Post
    Thanks for the summary and the pictures. I tried to do this in the past with a magnet too but was unable to get any sort of glue to hold the LED light bracket to the magnet. How did you mount the light to the magnet? That would be great information. Also, can you provide details ont he magnet you got from Amazon? Thanks so much for your work - looks great and it really helps especially when backing up.
    Looks like he uses the center hole of the chrome magnet backing plate. Then a short bolt and nut to attach the U bracket that comes with the light.

    Magnets are usually installed with epoxy to the backing plate. Unfortunately it doesn't always hold.
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    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    Looks like he uses the center hole of the chrome magnet backing plate. Then a short bolt and nut to attach the U bracket that comes with the light.

    Magnets are usually installed with epoxy to the backing plate. Unfortunately it doesn't always hold.

    Sort of like what I did here...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Romans828 View Post
    Thanks for the summary and the pictures. I tried to do this in the past with a magnet too but was unable to get any sort of glue to hold the LED light bracket to the magnet. How did you mount the light to the magnet? That would be great information. Also, can you provide details ont he magnet you got from Amazon? Thanks so much for your work - looks great and it really helps especially when backing up.
    Bolted the lights to the magnets, as per picture detail. Here are the Amazon order magnet details, I used the 200 lb. one on the reverse light and the 65 lb ones on the driving lights with zap straps to be safe. (Keep in mind it is the Canadian Amazon site, so prices will be different then American site) The 200 lb. magnet has an unbelievable grip, you'll need two friends to help you remove. I would have used them on ROPS lights too, but the base size was too big. Remember that adding a 36 watt LED driving light, is like adding another headlight, so you get tons of light. Attached pictures should be very self explanatory, but let me know if you have any more questions.


    Tom
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180107_092424_resized.jpg   20180107_085912_resized.jpg   20180107_090401_resized.jpg   20180106_094400_resized.jpg   20180106_101407_resized.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by mike01 View Post
    Are those stock tires? Why do they look so big?
    Yes, they are the stock size, not sure why they look so big. It sure was surprizing to me how much more traction the turf tires had in the snow, when compared to the R4's. The dealer told me that when I bought the two sets, but I didn't really believe him. Out of curiosity, I think that I will buy a set of HDAP tires for next year, and mount them on the R4 rims. I can always sell the R4's with the machine in 30 years........

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