1025R leaking mmm pto/rear casing - Upgrade to 3 series?
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Thread: 1025R leaking mmm pto/rear casing - Upgrade to 3 series?

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    1025R leaking mmm pto/rear casing - Upgrade to 3 series?

    1025R Leaking
    Several months ago I had hydraulic fluid leaking from the MMM PTO seal. Dealership thought they would have to pull the whole rear end out to fix leak and pull the seal from the inside. Thankfully, the mechanic I have is solid great guy and has mastered to fix every issue I have so far and is quick to respond. He was able to replace without having to pull the rear end out and was able to get to it from the outside and put a new seal in. No leak!
    But..........
    A few months after that got fixed I saw a big puddle of hydraulic fluid on the floor again and thought it was leaking from the MMM PTO again. So mechanic came back out to look and unfortunately the worst has happened. The rear casing is leaking. He stated he hates that these are just pressure fitted from factory with some sealant in between the casings and there is not a gasket like the bigger tractors have. He said, they do not even make a gasket for it so we can not put one in even if we wanted to. The bad news is he has to pull the whole rear end out. Everything from the steering wheel back is going to come off and its going to take at least a week to do. Thank God he talked me into buying the extended warranty and that is going to cover 100% of everything but............. I fear that its never going to be as solid as it was when coming from factory. He assured me it would be as good as new and maybe even better. When he has it all apart he said everything will get all new gaskets, hoses, fittings, etc. Whatever can be replace with new, will.
    This 1025r of mine I bought brand new in 2013 I have almost 700hrs on it. He said, he wished he could have been my sales guy because he would have talked me into a 3 or 4 series tractor. I have a family member with a 4 and its to big for my needs. I only have a 4 acre property that I have converted all to sod. So lots of fun mowing time that I enjoy. But he highly is encouraging me that once this warranty is close to running out to get a 3 series. I think I'm going to take his advice.
    Thoughts?
    Is there anyone out here in the JD family that used to have a 1 series and now has upgraded to a 3 series? You glad you did? Are the rear attachments like the rear blade, tiller, spreader transferable to one tractor to the other? I know the FEL is not.
    Any and all feedback is welcome. I'm just so nervous about having more issues now that this whole rear end is coming off.
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    Travis Pohlman
    Nebraska
    JD 1025R / FORD 8N

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    Mar524ak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thpohlman View Post
    1025R Leaking
    Several months ago I had hydraulic fluid leaking from the MMM PTO seal. Dealership thought they would have to pull the whole rear end out to fix leak and pull the seal from the inside. Thankfully, the mechanic I have is solid great guy and has mastered to fix every issue I have so far and is quick to respond. He was able to replace without having to pull the rear end out and was able to get to it from the outside and put a new seal in. No leak!
    But..........
    A few months after that got fixed I saw a big puddle of hydraulic fluid on the floor again and thought it was leaking from the MMM PTO again. So mechanic came back out to look and unfortunately the worst has happened. The rear casing is leaking. He stated he hates that these are just pressure fitted from factory with some sealant in between the casings and there is not a gasket like the bigger tractors have. He said, they do not even make a gasket for it so we can not put one in even if we wanted to. The bad news is he has to pull the whole rear end out. Everything from the steering wheel back is going to come off and its going to take at least a week to do. Thank God he talked me into buying the extended warranty and that is going to cover 100% of everything but............. I fear that its never going to be as solid as it was when coming from factory. He assured me it would be as good as new and maybe even better. When he has it all apart he said everything will get all new gaskets, hoses, fittings, etc. Whatever can be replace with new, will.
    This 1025r of mine I bought brand new in 2013 I have almost 700hrs on it. He said, he wished he could have been my sales guy because he would have talked me into a 3 or 4 series tractor. I have a family member with a 4 and its to big for my needs. I only have a 4 acre property that I have converted all to sod. So lots of fun mowing time that I enjoy. But he highly is encouraging me that once this warranty is close to running out to get a 3 series. I think I'm going to take his advice.
    Thoughts?
    Is there anyone out here in the JD family that used to have a 1 series and now has upgraded to a 3 series? You glad you did? Are the rear attachments like the rear blade, tiller, spreader transferable to one tractor to the other? I know the FEL is not.
    Any and all feedback is welcome. I'm just so nervous about having more issues now that this whole rear end is coming off.


    To seal the housings you need to use this. This is what we use at Deere! Stuff is great. The big tractors donít use gaskets between housing either we use this stuff. Little bit goes along way!! I have split many tractors and havenít had a problem with this stuff failing. Where is it leaking at?



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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mar524ak View Post
    To seal the housings you need to use this. This is what we use at Deere! Stuff is great. The big tractors don’t use gaskets between housing either we use this stuff. Little bit goes along way!! I have split many tractors and haven’t had a problem with this stuff failing. Where is it leaking at?
    Looking at the parts breakdown I don't see any gaskets between the transmission housing and center sections on the 3E series but I do see gaskets between the center sections on the 3R series.

    Having said that, the use of gaskets on the center case seems to be an odd reason to upgrade from a 1-series to a 3-series. It is unfortunate that the OPs tractor is having a leak but the same could just as easily happen when gaskets are used. There are thousands upon thousands of SCUT/CUT tractors out there which have been running leak free for many decades. There are also plenty of tractors that have had leaks of one type or another. No model is immune.

    I know the OP is concerned about his tractor being taken apart but tractors get "split" for various repairs every day and if the mechanic is competent there is no reason the tractor would not be as good or better than when assembled new.

    Now... if the OP wants to upgrade from a 1-series to a 4-series to get away from the aluminum housings and have something made of iron, that I would perfectly understand. :-)
    Last edited by jgayman; 01-08-2018 at 08:10 AM.
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    Its leaking from the main big housing that the mmm pto is housing meets up with the rest of the rear end. From rear tire to tire. If I could find a diagram of the rear I could maybe be more specific or have correct terminology but can not seem to find one. The dealer used some stuff like this around the whole thing but must have found a pin size hole that its leaking from. Either way he said its better to get this sealant between these two main components like from factory rather than just spreading it on the outside to stop the leak because if it wears off its just going to start leaking again.



    Quote Originally Posted by Mar524ak View Post


    To seal the housings you need to use this. This is what we use at Deere! Stuff is great. The big tractors donít use gaskets between housing either we use this stuff. Little bit goes along way!! I have split many tractors and havenít had a problem with this stuff failing. Where is it leaking at?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Travis Pohlman
    Nebraska
    JD 1025R / FORD 8N

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    Mar524ak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thpohlman View Post
    Its leaking from the main big housing that the mmm pto is housing meets up with the rest of the rear end. From rear tire to tire. If I could find a diagram of the rear I could maybe be more specific or have correct terminology but can not seem to find one. The dealer used some stuff like this around the whole thing but must have found a pin size hole that its leaking from. Either way he said its better to get this sealant between these two main components like from factory rather than just spreading it on the outside to stop the leak because if it wears off its just going to start leaking again.
    Yes itís best to split and clean surface and apply this to fix the issue



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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thpohlman View Post
    Its leaking from the main big housing that the mmm pto is housing meets up with the rest of the rear end. From rear tire to tire. If I could find a diagram of the rear I could maybe be more specific or have correct terminology but can not seem to find one. The dealer used some stuff like this around the whole thing but must have found a pin size hole that its leaking from. Either way he said its better to get this sealant between these two main components like from factory rather than just spreading it on the outside to stop the leak because if it wears off its just going to start leaking again.
    Does this diagram help?

    Click image for larger version.†

Name:	1025R_center.jpg†
Views:	144†
Size:	85.5 KB†
ID:	524962
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    I guess one of my reasons for upgrading would be that a larger tractor could take more abuse. I do a lot of mowing and really like the mmm setup and I do lots of tilling and dragging with a harrow with my tractor for grading purposes. Have a larger tractor for tilling and harrowing I think would probably be a smart decision. This would allow me to disc rather than till and I would like the tractor to have the ability to have the lifting power to pickup a drill seeder. The small 1 series doesn't have the power to disc. I got some time but start to research now and see what others thoughts are about it. Curious to hear what people have to say about their 3 series. If I was to upgrade I'm thinking of the 3039r or the 3046r.

    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    Looking at the parts breakdown I don't see any gaskets between the transmission housing and center sections on the 3E series but I do see gaskets between the center sections on the 3R series.

    Having said that, the use of gaskets on the center case seems to be an odd reason to upgrade from a 1-series to a 3-series. It is unfortunate that the OPs tractor is having a leak but the same could just as easily happen when gaskets are used. There are thousands upon thousands of SCUT/CUT tractors out there which have been running leak free for many decades. There are also plenty of tractors that have had leaks of one type or another. No model is immune.

    I know the OP is concerned about his tractor being taken apart but tractors get "split" for various repairs every day and if the mechanic is competent there is no reason the tractor would not be as good or better than when assembled new.

    Now... if the OP wants to upgrade from a 1-series to a 4-series to get away from the aluminum housings and have something made of iron, that I would perfectly understand. :-)
    Last edited by thpohlman; 01-08-2018 at 11:25 AM.
    Travis Pohlman
    Nebraska
    JD 1025R / FORD 8N

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    I attached that diagram and highlighted the area where to two pieces come together and marked in red about where the leak is.
    Thanks!




    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    Does this diagram help?

    Click image for larger version.†

Name:	1025R_center.jpg†
Views:	144†
Size:	85.5 KB†
ID:	524962
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails tractor housing.PNG
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    Travis Pohlman
    Nebraska
    JD 1025R / FORD 8N

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    Yeah I'm thinking so and that is exactly what the mechanic wants to do. Just a bummer and so much has to come off to do so.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mar524ak View Post
    Yes itís best to split and clean surface and apply this to fix the issue



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    Travis Pohlman
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    Mar524ak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thpohlman View Post
    I attached that diagram and highlighted the area where to two pieces come together and marked in red about where the leak is.
    Thanks!
    I believe it calls for LOCTITE PM38628 to reseal it.


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