Grease main drive shaft 1025r
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 37
Like Tree18Likes

Thread: Grease main drive shaft 1025r

  1. Top | #1
    cheesetrain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 08:28 PM
    Location
    Beaver Dam, WI
    Posts
    1,903
    Thanks
    85
    Thanked 172 Times in 147 Posts

    Grease main drive shaft 1025r

    Ok, I've read the threads on GTT a search turned up and I think I should be coming at the main drive shaft from above to make access easier based on what I've read, but how does one turn the flywheel on the engine to align the zerks?? I had the mower off after finishing and decided that with 22 hours (99% of it mowing) I should grease the tractor. Got the two on the steering easy, 4wd shaft easy by just having the tractor in neutral and rolling it. Three on the auto connect PTO by putting the PTO selector to the rear PTO. Then can spin the Mid PTO by hand. I tried to turn the main drive shaft by hand and no luck. Tried to turn the flywheel from underneath the tractor and no luck there either. What's the secret??
    1025R w\ block heater and one rear work light
    H120 FEL w 53" bucket, 54" QH blade, 60" MMM w\ autoconnect, mulch kit and independent lift kit
    JD 3 bag MCS with powerflow
    Land Pride RTA1250 tiller and CA1556 core aerator
    Imatch Quick Hitch
    JamisonBryce MCS Imatch adapter
    Heavy Hitch weight bracket & sub soiler combo
    CMP Attachments 60" HD front dethatcher
    Garber 72" 3pt mount drop spreader
    Countyline 3pt PHD with 9" diameter auger

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2

    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Last Online
    03-18-2017 @ 09:02 AM
    Location
    OKC Metro - Edmond/Arcadia
    Posts
    311
    Thanks
    29
    Thanked 21 Times in 17 Posts
    I bump the starter until it lines up with the access hole and grease it from underneath.
    1025R FILB - And lots of other goodies. Support our GTT American small business vendors! Great products at fair prices.

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Last Online
    09-14-2019 @ 09:13 AM
    Location
    Texas Panhandle
    Posts
    931
    Thanks
    64
    Thanked 90 Times in 83 Posts
    Strong hands on the flywheel? I spin it slowly with them.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    636mullet likes this.
    3046r Cab, H165 w/61" bucket, Frontier 72"BB, MX6, and Woods TCR68" Tiller.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    Tomfive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 09:58 PM
    Location
    Mid-Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    4,153
    Thanks
    97
    Thanked 606 Times in 471 Posts
    I think I remember reading a post on GTT that there are a few 13mm bolts on the flywheel. Putting a wrench on one will give you a little more leverage to turn the flywheel. Just turn in a tightening direction. I didn't get a chance to find that post (sorry).

    I was able to muscle my flywheel by hand when I greased mine.

    Just my 2 cents.
    paul ellis likes this.
    Tom

    2011 1026R/R4's -- H120 FEL/49" -- 260 BH/12" -- Bro-Tek Ripper -- Artillian Forks/42" -- 244 lbs JD Rear Wheel Weights -- KBOH Hooks and Clevis' --
    Block heater -- 180* T-stat -- Evans HP Waterless Coolant

  7. Top | #5
    etcallhome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 09:32 PM
    Location
    Preston County WV
    Posts
    13,390
    Thanks
    3,263
    Thanked 2,459 Times in 1,584 Posts
    Just a good grip on the flywheel and turn it slowly.
    paul ellis likes this.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

  8. Top | #6
    Carvel Loafer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Last Online
    09-22-2019 @ 09:11 AM
    Location
    Carvel, Alberta
    Posts
    2,871
    Thanks
    329
    Thanked 449 Times in 263 Posts
    One hand on the flywheel and one on the shaft works good.

    Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
    etcallhome likes this.
    Workin hard at loafing!
    2012 1026R c/w H120 FEL, 42" Frontier Forks, 6T49 CL Tooth Bar, CL7 Weight Bracket

    RC2048 48" Rough Cut Mower, Buhler Y550R 60" Finishing Mower, 60" Frontier RB2060L Back Blade, JD Ballast Box
    Femco Hitch Adapter 2" Receiver, 60" Farm King 3PH Snow Blower, I Match, BB2048L Frontier Box Blade

    6' Kodiak Landscape Rake, Braber Equipment PHD c/w 9" & 12" X 48" Augers, HLA 1000 60" Snow Blade

    1980 317 L&G Tractor c/w 48" Mower and 48" Snow Blower

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Carvel Loafer For This Useful Post:

    cheesetrain (08-08-2014)

  10. Top | #7
    cheesetrain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 08:28 PM
    Location
    Beaver Dam, WI
    Posts
    1,903
    Thanks
    85
    Thanked 172 Times in 147 Posts

    Grease main drive shaft 1025r

    I'll have to experiment some more. The rest were easy, although I did not find a zerk on the front axle pivot. Dealer will be here in an hour to change hydraulic hose on steering cylinder so I may ask them as well.
    1025R w\ block heater and one rear work light
    H120 FEL w 53" bucket, 54" QH blade, 60" MMM w\ autoconnect, mulch kit and independent lift kit
    JD 3 bag MCS with powerflow
    Land Pride RTA1250 tiller and CA1556 core aerator
    Imatch Quick Hitch
    JamisonBryce MCS Imatch adapter
    Heavy Hitch weight bracket & sub soiler combo
    CMP Attachments 60" HD front dethatcher
    Garber 72" 3pt mount drop spreader
    Countyline 3pt PHD with 9" diameter auger

  11. Top | #8
    fuelhog2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Last Online
    03-01-2019 @ 08:10 PM
    Location
    Dummer N.H.
    Posts
    716
    Thanks
    306
    Thanked 105 Times in 82 Posts
    I put a screwdriver into the gap where the joint is and turn the shaft with the screwdriver as leverage so the rear grease fitting is pointed down. This lines up the front fitting with the hole. Very easy to do.
    636mullet likes this.
    2011 1026R 54"MMM, D120 loader w/snowbucket and bucket quick attach conversion, 5' bush hog, middlebuster, 260 backhoe
    Remember: Too tight is two pieces

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to fuelhog2000 For This Useful Post:

    cheesetrain (08-08-2014)

  13. Top | #9
    cheesetrain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 08:28 PM
    Location
    Beaver Dam, WI
    Posts
    1,903
    Thanks
    85
    Thanked 172 Times in 147 Posts

    Got some ideas to try on main drive shaft

    Talked with service guy about the zerks on the main drive shaft when he was here replacing the steering hose. It was the head service guy that came out and he said in the shop they just start/stop the engine until the zerks line up with the access holes underneath. We also noticed after the hose was replaced that the left front tire is dangerously close to hitting the port on the steering cylinder. Service guy said Deere actually has a DTAC for that issue and the fix is to install a sticky back lead square so that the tractor can't turn as far to the left and have the tire hit the cylinder. Guess it's only an issue on 1 series tractors with R4 tires.

    He also mentioned that they don't recommend putting a screwdriver through the yoke (sorry fuelhog) as too many people have broken the yoke trying to turn the drive shaft. Does the key need to be on to turn the flywheel?? I tried this evening to turn the flywheel again and no luck.
    1025R w\ block heater and one rear work light
    H120 FEL w 53" bucket, 54" QH blade, 60" MMM w\ autoconnect, mulch kit and independent lift kit
    JD 3 bag MCS with powerflow
    Land Pride RTA1250 tiller and CA1556 core aerator
    Imatch Quick Hitch
    JamisonBryce MCS Imatch adapter
    Heavy Hitch weight bracket & sub soiler combo
    CMP Attachments 60" HD front dethatcher
    Garber 72" 3pt mount drop spreader
    Countyline 3pt PHD with 9" diameter auger

  14. Top | #10
    HydroHarold's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Last Online
    06-28-2019 @ 11:07 PM
    Location
    Mid Hudson Valley NY
    Posts
    3,554
    Thanks
    321
    Thanked 332 Times in 253 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Tomfive View Post
    I think I remember reading a post on GTT that there are a few 13mm bolts on the flywheel. Putting a wrench on one will give you a little more leverage to turn the flywheel. Just turn in a tightening direction. I didn't get a chance to find that post (sorry).

    I was able to muscle my flywheel by hand when I greased mine.

    Just my 2 cents.
    It was I who discovered the magic 13mm bolt heads inside the flywheel. It beat trying to heave the engine over by hand by far and the hit 'n miss of the starter by "way far". The wrench allows one to see up "through the little tiny hole" and easily line that little bugger right up.

    "Seasons Greasings"!
    2013(12) 1026r TLB 54 QH front blade, 54D Auto Connect deck, ballast box, carryall

    '04 GX335, 48C, Johnny Bucket Jr., PowerFlow W/7bu. bagger, 42 snow blower, 48 Plow, JD front dethatcher, 10 Cart, Little-Brown Henway, Stihl 026P/20", Stihl 241/16", Stihl BG 85 blower, Stihl KombiMotor 110 w/string trimmer/brush cutter/edger/pole saw/hedge trimmer, Snapper 21" WB, Snapper 8/24 snow blower

    "...and visions of green CUT sugarplums dance in his head..."

    NRA Life Member

  15. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •