Why can't I: Wheel bolt reversal
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    Lightbulb Why can't I: Wheel bolt reversal

    WRT others who have been unfortunate with rear wheel incidents- I feel for ya, brother.

    So, last summer I ripped out a rear tire valve stem on a fluid filled rear tire. Not that big of a deal to get it fixed, but wrestling it back on was a serious PITA.

    I noticed that the procedure was to thread a bolt through the wheel into the flange. Not so easy to do...

    I think it would be easier to put the wheel on a stud!

    So why don't I put the bolt through the wheel flange, put the tire on and then use some nylock nuts on the wheel stud/bolts?

    I think I could do it one bolt at a time and not have to take the wheel off. What size nylock nuts do I need?

    1025 TLB.

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    Maybe better yet get 2 bolts same size and thread as the wheel lug bolts. Cut the heads off, screw those into the axle flange. Slide the wheel on over the 2 now studs. Then you could screw the 3 lug bolts on. Remove the 2 studs, put them in your tool box for future use, and screw in the other 2 lug bolts? Don't forget to torque them for sure.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaseIH574 View Post
    Maybe better yet get 2 bolts same size and thread as the wheel lug bolts. Cut the heads off, screw those into the axle flange. Slide the wheel on over the 2 now studs. Then you could screw the 3 lug bolts on. Remove the 2 studs, put them in your tool box for future use, and screw in the other 2 lug bolts? Don't forget to torque them for sure.
    What he said^^^^^^, or why not just wrestle them, it's not like we take off and on often.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9MMMAC View Post
    WRT others who have been unfortunate with rear wheel incidents- I feel for ya, brother.

    So, last summer I ripped out a rear tire valve stem on a fluid filled rear tire. Not that big of a deal to get it fixed, but wrestling it back on was a serious PITA.

    I noticed that the procedure was to thread a bolt through the wheel into the flange. Not so easy to do...

    I think it would be easier to put the wheel on a stud!
    It's much simpler just to buy a longer bolt at the hardware store, cut off the head, grind two flat spots and use it as a guide pin. The one shown below is for the front wheel but I also made one for the rear wheel.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    glc
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9MMMAC View Post
    WRT others who have been unfortunate with rear wheel incidents- I feel for ya, brother.

    So, last summer I ripped out a rear tire valve stem on a fluid filled rear tire. Not that big of a deal to get it fixed, but wrestling it back on was a serious PITA.

    I noticed that the procedure was to thread a bolt through the wheel into the flange. Not so easy to do...

    I think it would be easier to put the wheel on a stud!

    So why don't I put the bolt through the wheel flange, put the tire on and then use some nylock nuts on the wheel stud/bolts?

    I think I could do it one bolt at a time and not have to take the wheel off. What size nylock nuts do I need?

    1025 TLB.
    I'm sure there is a reason why JD chose to use wheel bolts instead of stud/nut combination.
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    Quote Originally Posted by glc View Post
    I'm sure there is a reason why JD chose to use wheel bolts instead of stud/nut combination.
    I'm thinking the bean counters considered it a cheaper solution.
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    You could buy one... But i am not sure what size the tractor uses.

    Gorilla Automotive Products

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by TractorDude View Post
    You could buy one... But i am not sure what size the tractor uses.

    Gorilla Automotive Products
    1025R front/rear is:

    Thread Size 12.000 MM
    Thread Pitch 1.250 MM

    The Gorilla set doesn't include this size. You can buy a bolt for around $2.00.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Thank you jgayman for the size.

    But, why buy a bolt when you can buy a TOOL! Not an easy size to find, quick search found this:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Alloy-W...QAAOSwBv9Z3eQs

    Kevin
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    Quote Originally Posted by TractorDude View Post
    Thank you jgayman for the size.

    But, why buy a bolt when you can buy a TOOL! Not an easy size to find, quick search found this:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Alloy-W...QAAOSwBv9Z3eQs

    Kevin
    $19 and waiting for it to ship from the UK? Seriously, for all the often you typically need to take a wheel off and on the bolt works like a charm. After all, a bolt has more than enough hardness.
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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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