Bear with me on this thread. What I am about to post are just theories as to why 1). Some 1 series users are not able to get the 4" height of cut that deere lists the 1 series as getting and 2). Scalp issues with the 1 series MMM, particualriy the 60"
First off, I have a 1025r with the 60" MMM with the mulch kit installed. Tractor was delivered in June. I have done no adjustment on the deck so the height settings on my deck are obtained with dealer setup. With my deck in the lock position, the photo on the left shows the height that my deck is at. As you can see it's just shy of 5".
We normally mow two notches down from lock which you can see in the middle picture is a height of about 3 3/4". So I can easily get the 1-4" height that Deere claims for the 1 series.
My neighbor commented about how high I mow the grass and that I should cut it lower in the past. Yesterday when I mowed I got to thinking about this. I usually just lower the anti scalp wheels until the lynch pin hits. This lowers the wheels down obviously but not to the recommended 3/8" clearance that shows on the sticker on the deck and in the manual. I didn't worry about it, new tractor, will play. I wasn't looking for a golf course cut, just not taking 5-9 hours to mow. My neighbor said it took him over a year to get his anti scalp wheels set correctly. He was to the point of trading in his X728 for a X758 with the 54" deck. After his deck adjustments he doesn't get hardly any scalp and his yard when mowed looks like a golf course now.
I started to experiment yesterday and found out that as one that can mow at a cut height of greater than 3", I run into another problem. I removed the lynch pins and lowered the anti scalp wheels down as far as they will go. As you can see from the picture on the right, I am no where close to the 3/8" clearance that the anti scalp wheels are supposed to be set at, but I have no more holes to use in the adjustment. My neighbor and I did some measuring and it appears that the shafts on the wheels would need to be about 4" longer and have three more holes in order to get the 3/8" height on the anti scalp wheels. Having the brackets the wheels mount in be straight out from the deck and parallel with the ground would gain some extra adjustment as well.
So theory one is that the 4" cut height can be obtained, but you can't set the anti scalp wheels low enough to properly cut at the 4" height. The shaft on the anti scalp wheels isn't long enough. Could this be why some users have the scalping issues? I measured the anti scalp wheels on my neighbors X728 and they are the same length as mine. He has his deck set to mow at 3 1/4" height. The X700 series has inch increments on the cut height knob.
Theory number two ties into theory number one. If you read the manual and look at the sticker on the deck itself, it shows that the pins placed in the top hole of the anti scalp wheels is 3". OK. Those of you that can't get a cut height greater than three inches, what are the chances that the deck was setup as follows: Lower anti scalp wheels down and lock in lowest position (3" according to sticker). Lower mower deck until the 3/8" clearance between anti scalp wheels and hard surface is achieved. Set this as the max cut height on the deck.
I am no expert by any means and by this thread I don't want to deter anybody from buying a 1 series as I love the tractor. These are just theories about some of the complaints users of the 1 series tractors have when using a mid mount mower. I plan on giving the dealer a call tomorrow just to run it by him. Maybe the 2 series or 3 series anti scalp wheels have a longer shaft and will swap over? Maybe I need to lower my mower deck and cut lower? I did check the deck and it is set up correctly from front to back and it is level from side to side. Again, these are just theories as to why some users have the issues with the decks on the 1 series.