1025R FILB: How I load it on a trailer
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 30
Like Tree19Likes

Thread: 1025R FILB: How I load it on a trailer

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 07:25 PM
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    372
    Thanks
    21
    Thanked 148 Times in 77 Posts

    1025R FILB: How I load it on a trailer

    This site is a treasure trove of information and has been very valuable to me as a first time tractor owner.

    I wanted to share some pictures of how I load my 1025R FILB on an 18' PJ trailer (with 2' dovetail). Feel free to criticize the loading if you see something amiss. Note the fine JD Yellow painted "Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks" and some Artillian pallet forks.

    I would like to have a little more forward pull on the front than what I currently have, but the D-Rings locations are limited (the D-Rings are bolted through the trailer crossmembers with 1/2" grade 8 bolts). Right now the tongue weight is about 500-600 lbs. If I move the tractor back without adding weight to the front in order to get a better "angle", the tongue gets too light for my liking. The heavy gate on the back of the trailer also affects the loading.

    I use two clevis pins through the rear hitch plate to secure the back end and grab hooks to secure the front. Here's a breakdown:

    Chains: 3/8" grade 70 transport chains (2 x 20' cut into 10' pieces) (6,600 lb. WLL)
    Ratchet Binders: 5/16" - 3/8" (5,400 lb. WLL)
    Clevis Pins for rear: 7/8" x 4.25" with 3/4" pin, 16,000 lb load limit (5,333 lb. WLL I believe)
    Clevis Hook with spring loaded latch: G70 (12,000 WLL? I don't quite recall)
    Grab Hooks: Grade 70 (I don't recall the WLL)
    Ratchet Straps: 2" (3,333 lb. WLL, 10,000 break)

    So far the loading has worked very well and has helped to build my confidence pulling the tractor around. Stopping at rest stops to verify the load is secure typically causes people to walk up and start conversations.
    Last edited by Traction; 09-05-2014 at 05:42 PM.

  2. The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Traction For This Useful Post:

    Bubber (09-05-2014), Green Man (09-08-2014), Haze (09-06-2014), Jep (09-05-2014)

  3. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  4. Top | #2
    DRobinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:28 PM
    Location
    Northeastern PA
    Posts
    10,473
    Thanks
    2,087
    Thanked 2,283 Times in 1,413 Posts
    Good work, Traction.

    Not that I am proud to say this, but I have hauled 4020 size farm tractors on a roll-back with half as much tie down. Of course, I was quite young then and knew everything there was to know.

    What do you tow your trailer with?
    Levi likes this.
    Don

    2320, 54D MMM, 200CX FEL, 54 Front Blade with Artillian Extensions, Omni Transformer Hitch
    445, 54 mower and 54 front blade
    80 dump cart, 21 walk behind mower

  5. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 07:25 PM
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    372
    Thanks
    21
    Thanked 148 Times in 77 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by DRobinson View Post
    Good work, Traction.

    Not that I am proud to say this, but I have hauled 4020 size farm tractors on a roll-back with half as much tie down. Of course, I was quite young then and knew everything there was to know.

    What do you tow your trailer with?
    Thanks.

    2011 Ford F150 Supercrew with the 5.0 V8. That trailer is bad on the mpg's though; loaded or unloaded I only get about 12 mpg with the gate up and I can't fold it flat.

  6. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  7. Top | #4
    DRobinson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:28 PM
    Location
    Northeastern PA
    Posts
    10,473
    Thanks
    2,087
    Thanked 2,283 Times in 1,413 Posts
    It is probably best to hook up and go and not bother with the arithmetic.
    Don

    2320, 54D MMM, 200CX FEL, 54 Front Blade with Artillian Extensions, Omni Transformer Hitch
    445, 54 mower and 54 front blade
    80 dump cart, 21 walk behind mower

  8. Top | #5
    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 01:05 PM
    Location
    NE Tenn.
    Posts
    10,144
    Thanks
    2,985
    Thanked 1,896 Times in 1,064 Posts
    Looks tied down to me. Great looking equipment and trailer. Happy motoring!
    1026R -- 60D mmm -- H120 Loader -- Curtis 150 Tiller -- DR 3 point Chipper -- Howse Middle Buster -- Brinly 16 Blade Disk -- Kodiak 5' Box Blade -- 12-42 lb. suitcase weights -- Lawn roller -- Upgraded seat springs from psrumors -- Kennyd's bolt on hooks & clevis -- BXpanded tooth bar -- CMI 6' wagon -- Heavy Hitch Cultivator /garden bedder / hiller attachments --

    Donated by some great people/vendors on here: 72 lb. wheel weights -- Bro-Tek 1½" rear wheel spacers.
    NRA Life Member

  9. Top | #6
    chex313's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 08:48 PM
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    858
    Thanks
    132
    Thanked 94 Times in 81 Posts
    That looks good and secure. We only use 4 points when I move my 1026R. I only connect to the tractor, I don't trust hooking to the Loader or BH. They move to easily. If I went more than 15 miles or over 45MPH, I would add 4 more.
    Last edited by chex313; 09-05-2014 at 06:34 PM.
    Dave's 2012 1026R TLB,54"MMM Auto Attach,Ken's hooks&clevis,Artillian 36' Forks and a KennyPedal WH 520H 48" Snow Blade,48" Deck379 Peterbuilt (3 Million Miles in a big truck)

  10. Top | #7
    rtgt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:24 PM
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    6,322
    Thanks
    1,767
    Thanked 1,118 Times in 794 Posts
    Looks very good. Better than most do.

    Technically (splitting hairs....) each attachment should be a different point on the trailer. Only one chain/strap per anchor point. That said, you're doing better than most, and for the load you are fine.

    On the rear I'd take the chains for the tractor to the stake pockets and leave the hoe with the straps to the D rings....

    Taking the easy way is what makes rivers and men crooked.

    3039R, H160 FEL, 375A Backhoe, Artillian Grapple & Forks
    Z915E
    XUV560

  11. Top | #8
    sbussell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Last Online
    12-30-2018 @ 05:54 PM
    Location
    Sandown, NH
    Posts
    210
    Thanks
    7
    Thanked 21 Times in 18 Posts
    This may be a dumb question, but do you need to tie down the BH or can you leave the lock pins in for trailering?
    Steve

    John Deere 1025r FiLB, with 53" bucket, 54" mower (sold), (sold) Imatch Quick Hitch, (sold)Frontier RB2060L and Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks (x2), HLA 1500 Snowpush.

  12. Top | #9

    Join Date
    May 2014
    Last Online
    09-07-2016 @ 02:34 PM
    Location
    Manchester Md
    Posts
    11
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    yes BH needs to be tied down D.O.T. requires all attachments to be tied down.

  13. Top | #10

    Join Date
    May 2014
    Last Online
    09-07-2016 @ 02:34 PM
    Location
    Manchester Md
    Posts
    11
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Traction, the manual for my 2032R says to load tractor with hood facing to the rear of trailer to prevent hood from flying open from wind I don't know if this holds true for 1025R.

  14. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •