Work light plugs
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    Jep
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    Work light plugs

    After reading more then a few posts about work lights I decided that I needed them on my 1025r. I ordered a set of 27 watt LED lights and a pair of horse blinders. These would be used for winter snow work mounted on the ROPS light brush guards. I looked for and found the rear bullet plug above the PTO cover. I unplugged the black cap and took it with me shopping. Tractor supply had nothing and a few auto supply shops had a few, but none fit right. NAPA had everything I wanted. I decided I wanted my lights and blinders removable , because of mowing under and around low trees. This means a plug on each light. This is what I found. Part numbers should be readable. The black bullet is the John Deere. Other posters have stated this is .180" dia. The NAPA bullets are .176" dia. Nice tight fit . I hope this saves others the leg work when adding lights.
    I will try to post a finished picture, but a current temp of 80 degrees does not push one to work on snow lights...:empathy3:
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jep View Post
    After reading more then a few posts about work lights I decided that I needed them on my 1025r. I ordered a set of 27 watt LED lights and a pair of horse blinders. These would be used for winter snow work mounted on the ROPS light brush guards. I looked for and found the rear bullet plug above the PTO cover. I unplugged the black cap and took it with me shopping. Tractor supply had nothing and a few auto supply shops had a few, but none fit right. NAPA had everything I wanted. I decided I wanted my lights and blinders removable , because of mowing under and around low trees. This means a plug on each light. This is what I found. Part numbers should be readable. The black bullet is the John Deere. Other posters have stated this is .180" dia. The NAPA bullets are .176" dia. Nice tight fit . I hope this saves others the leg work when adding lights.
    I will try to post a finished picture, but a current temp of 80 degrees does not push one to work on snow lights...:empathy3:
    I think you can buy the wiring that goes from the bottom of the ROPS up to where the factory lights mount. From john deere

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    Protection!

    I'd buy some dielectric grease for those connectors (and/or any "like" connectors. You can usually pick up a Taco Bell, taco sauce sized packet at most auto parts stores for a buck or two. Smear it liberally on and into any exposed wire or metal connector terminal. It'll save you grief later in life.
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    Just call me Jon, not Myasis Dragon (Hint: My a** is draggin') 2013 1025r FILB (Factory installed loader & Backhoe - 260 & H120), 60D mower w/electric over hydraulic (independent) lift, R4 tires, psrumor's seat springs, Kenny D's bolt-on hooks, bxpanded piranha tooth bar on a 49" bucket and a 61" bucket for snow and light material, County Line post hole digger, County Line landscape rake, counterfeit JD box scraper, homemade 4' x 8' farm wagon, Fimco 30 gallon 3ph sprayer.

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    Couldn't read the part number on the wiring set. Could you post for those of us visually challenge? Thanks
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    Jep
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    NAPA part numbers

    Quote Originally Posted by ghostrider272 View Post
    Couldn't read the part number on the wiring set. Could you post for those of us visually challenge? Thanks
    You are right, sorry about that..
    2 pole flat (12") Number 755-1598
    Male snap terminal- nylon 16-14 ga. .176" Number 784340
    Female snap terminal - nylon 16-14 ga. .176" Number 784354
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    Note: There is no pre-run wiring for work lights on the 1023E. The bullet connectors and wiring near the bottom rear of the ROPS (purple and black wires) is only for extra flashers and a ground wire. I had to run my own wire straight to the switch to add a rear work light (hard to see in the garage with no electric when parking).

    On the 1023E there are two open positions (no wires ran) on the switch. I had to meter the prongs on the switch to find the correct position, which is the "lights only" position (last position on switch), then run a hot wire from the switch all the way back, up through the ROPS, to the light. I grounded the light to the ROPS. I believe the fusing is before the switch, but not sure. Should I install an inline 10 amp fuse?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonton View Post
    Note: There is no pre-run wiring for work lights on the 1023E. The bullet connectors and wiring near the bottom rear of the ROPS (purple and black wires) is only for extra flashers and a ground wire. I had to run my own wire straight to the switch to add a rear work light (hard to see in the garage with no electric when parking).

    On the 1023E there are two open positions (no wires ran) on the switch. I had to meter the prongs on the switch to find the correct position, which is the "lights only" position (last position on switch), then run a hot wire from the switch all the way back, up through the ROPS, to the light. I grounded the light to the ROPS. I believe the fusing is before the switch, but not sure. Should I install an inline 10 amp fuse?
    Not sure if I am reading this correctly but if you are saying that you used an unused prong on the factory light switch (which I think you are) for your added lights 12V positive then the light switch 12v feed should already be fused before the light switch. Just hope the fuse is big enough will handle the additional amperage.
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    Jep
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    All done, Let There Be Light

    Last night I finished my work lights install. All is well on the light and the dark side. Great addition to stock lights. Removable for the summer season with the top end plugs. Tested them and the Artillian horse blinders really make the light stay where needed. The 3/8" x 1 3/4" coupling nuts raise the lights up on the brush guards and give the top and bottom 3/8" bolts the room they need. Remove the top bolt and unplug the light. It works for me. Now I wonder if i need a switch so i don't blind the rest of the world

    1 pair Artillian horse blinders
    1 pair Tuff LED lights 2" x 4" round 27 Watt work lights 1550 lumen Amazon $47.98
    Di-electric grease for all connections
    1 homemade 2 to one wire harness with wire flex tube protector
    4 3/8" x 1" hex bolts
    2 3/8" body washers
    2 3/8" x 1 3/4" coupling nuts
    NAPA bullet plugs and connectors
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2200.JPG   IMG_2201.JPG   IMG_2202.JPG   IMG_2207.JPG  
    1025R TLB 54D MM, Imatch Quick hitch, BB, Ken's bolt on hooks, Piranha Tooth Bar, 36" Artillian forks, Cyclone rake XL, 54" Snowblower, 54"used blade, Edge Tamer and Extender, Heavy Hitch Subsoiler. Trailers: Sure-Trac 5x8 dump and a 7x16 steel side., 647 tiller, 5048 Box blade, heavy hitch tooth bar, 260B hoe, mulch kit

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    How bright are these at night? Got any nice, night illumination pics? They look great!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonton View Post
    Note: There is no pre-run wiring for work lights on the 1023E. The bullet connectors and wiring near the bottom rear of the ROPS (purple and black wires) is only for extra flashers and a ground wire. I had to run my own wire straight to the switch to add a rear work light (hard to see in the garage with no electric when parking).

    On the 1023E there are two open positions (no wires ran) on the switch. I had to meter the prongs on the switch to find the correct position, which is the "lights only" position (last position on switch), then run a hot wire from the switch all the way back, up through the ROPS, to the light. I grounded the light to the ROPS. I believe the fusing is before the switch, but not sure. Should I install an inline 10 amp fuse?
    Tonton is correct. When I added my work lights I branched off the tail light circuit, so my lights come on the last two positions of the switch.

    Here is how I did it:

    http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...-question.html
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