1025R Cant curl bucket up, joystick wont move very far left?
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Thread: 1025R Cant curl bucket up, joystick wont move very far left?

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    1025R Cant curl bucket up, joystick wont move very far left?

    hello,
    We have had a ton of snow the last few days so I have been out moving a bunch of it. Everything was fine until today. Seems like the joystick wants to center itself a little to the right, which un curls the bucket. If you pull it left (to curl the bucket up) eventually it will stop uncurling the bucket and keep it in what ever position you are in. Part in parcel with this is that the joystick wont pull very far left to curl the bucket up. Seem like you can push the joystick to the right and it uncurls the bucket at a normal rate, however pulling the stick left (barely moves left) and then it barely curls the bucket up. At idle it wont even curl the bucket up (which it used to do). I have to be north of 2500 rmp for the curling to even happen, which is at a very very slow speed. I've pulled the rubber boot up, nothing seems to be loose or disconnected, no leaks, hydraulic fluid is normal. The lock out pin is all the way out (or is it in?) so that the joystick is free to move. Drive power is normal. I dont get any bucket drop before the curl like other posts have mentioned. Any thoughts or ideas? Seems like something is stuck in the SCV valve not allowing the joystick to move to the left far enough. is this possible? I have ~ 150 hrs on this tractor (1st owner).
    thank you in advance!
    T
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    Try disconnecting your hose couplers and reconnecting them. Might try swapping them so bucket and lift functions are reversed.
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Welcome to GTT,

    In addition to what greenharly suggested (especially unplugging, cleaning and then re-plugging the couplers), have you lubricated the SCV linkage under the rubber boot?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    Welcome to GTT,

    In addition to what greenharly suggested (especially unplugging, cleaning and then re-plugging the couplers), have you lubricated the SCV linkage under the rubber boot?
    Just pulled the quick couplers off, cleaned them, reversed the hoses for curl up/curl down. Now I get a regular curl up, but slow curl down. I also lubed the SCV linkage under the boot, but there is still a very short movement pulling the lever to the left (to curl up normally). I slid the lock out pin in and out after lubing, its moving the way it should (not half stuck).

    Any other thoughts?
    Thank you in advance!!
    T

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    Hate to say it but might be a failure in the valve keeping the handle from going left (and you mention that it doesn't center itself, but "centers" to the right) . There shouldn't be any real resistance in the lever in any of the 4 directions, except the float (forward) and re-gen (right)...and those are more like a stop you have to push past versus resistance.

    Here's a picture from the JD parts catalog showing the internals. Might be able to get an idea of what is happening inside the valve. Looks like this valve is used for all years of the 1025R.

    Attachment 563825
    Last edited by kylew; 03-05-2018 at 07:09 PM.
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    Video of whats going on...

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/35ZStXAAih5AIeJC2

    Here is a short video of the joystick, I think something is shot with the valve. Has anyone had one of these apart? is there anything to do internally that might fix the issue? Or not?
    thank you again for all the ideas!

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    Do you know what part # this is?? (Pics and video)

    Hello,
    Trying to diagnose an issue with my SCV valve on 1025R. Dealer told me I need to buy entire valve, parts guys says these parts are available separately, but nothing denotes which is which in the diagram. I'm trying to figure out what parts in the image correspond to the part name and remarks (blue and red arrow), as I'm pretty certain its causing the issues Im experiencing with the bucket not curling up and joystick falling to the right side on its own causing bucket to uncurl. I think the part I need is described as "Regen centering x20 SCV", which Im hoping is the part being pointed to with the red arrow. The curl/uncurl hydraulic circuit is associated with the ports denoted by the green arrows, which is why Im thinking that the part being pointed to by the red arrow is the culprit.

    Has anyone ever replaced either of these bottom looking tubes (red and blue arrows) on bottom of valve. After talking to JD tech they described them as the detent sections of the valve.
    Here is a video of what my valve is doing. Seems like a spring is shot allowing the joystick to fall to the right with little to no force applied (and also not re-centering). Possibly something stuck, not allowing you to pull joystick left to have bucket curl up.

    Parts link: http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/c...79d510a2188599

    Video showing exactly whats happening with valve:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/TeY2NL30VIZnUri82

    Image of the valve:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SCV Valve annotated.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	28.9 KB 
ID:	564361

    Any thoughts?
    Thanks again
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SCV Valve.jpg  
    Last edited by Titanite; 03-06-2018 at 01:58 PM.
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    I can't totally answer your question but can provide a little info.

    Normally when they talk about the detent kit or section of the valve they are talking about the detent where the float function is. So normally machines are set up so that your lift control for the arms or a blade on a quick hitch on the front has a float mode. I want to say on your machine you push it forward a little harder than normal and it will click and lock forward so that the FEL, blade or blower follows the contours of the ground. This detent kit can be added to the other hydraulic control. Some people do this on a FEL so that they can push it all the way over in the dump mode so a full bucket can dump quicker with gravity kind of like the old trip buckets rather than waiting on hydraulics to cycle.

    I am not familiar with the names of the other kits but one would be the normal operation from the factory and I can't say for sure what is included in the kit to know if it comes with a spring or whatever is causing your issue.

    Not sure that this helps other than explaining what they are likely talking about with the detent kit.
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    I commend your willingness to make this repair yourself.

    If it were me, I would first have a thorough visual examination of the external linkage to make damn sure it was not responsible for a loss of valve stroke before I started taking things off the machine.

    Next I would recommend dismantling the valve body and looking for things like broken re-centering springs. Find what is required such as the faulty part, o-rings or gaskets that you may need for a professional valve body renewal, and then compile your parts order.

    From the looks of that parts diagram, they are no way showing all the pieces utilized in the assembly. It may well be that some are only included as an assembly (which sucks). The lack of distinct, individual part numbers is hindrance enough.

    Good luck man, and please keep us posted!
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    kylew (03-06-2018)

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    First off, you shouldn't have started another thread. It's easier for everyone to read the posts involved in one place and not have to jump from thread to thread. Not complaining, just saying.

    Jeff B beat me to the punch....looks like dismantling the valve is going to be the way to go to find out what's going on inside. From your video it doesn't look like any external interference (I could be wrong). The parts list & diagram doesn't appear to be showing everything, and like he said, some things may only be available in a complete valve assembly. If you tear it apart and find something, I'd suggest contacting JD Tech and see if what you need is available separately and what the part numbers are, for sure.

    If it were me, after making 100% sure the problem isn't external (and again, it doesn't appear to be), I'd be thinking I'd have to replace the valve, so what do I have to lose by opening it up and checking the parts inside. Might get lucky and be able to repair it. But I'm not there looking at the valve so I can only theorize and speculate.

    We are very curious about your findings and fix. PLEASE keep us posted and updated.
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