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I-match, is it worth it?

21K views 55 replies 30 participants last post by  VTTractorguy 
#1 · (Edited)
I want to get an i-match hitch for my 1023E. It looks like a great setup. I realize it's not cheap, and there are cheaper options out there. But, if I'm going to do it, I might as well do it once and get it over with!

Any here regret getting an I-match? Is it as slick as it looks?

I'll be using it on my ballast box and my Frontier snowblower, both are I-match compatible.
 
#2 ·
Never once have I thought to myself "getting this iMatch sucks. I hate being able to connect and disconnect my implements from the seat and not having to wrestle them."

Yup. Once you have one, you'll wonder why you didn't a long time ago. :drinks:
 
#3 ·
I waited a year to get the iMatch as I have to justify everything, especially toys... Anyway, I am in love with this device! I had a couple episodes of taking off the heavy ballast box on uneven ground and one time when the ground was wet, I was trying to get everything lined up (no iMatch) and well, it sucked and that instance completely justified the iMatch. Since having the iMatch, I can pickup any implement that is setup for the iMatch on any type of terrain, so it's quite worth the $350. My dealer was great and sold it to me for $350 out the door with the included side link bushings. I bought additional bushings from Tractor Supply and Belarus and they work well. I say GO FOR IT, you will not regret the money spent!
 
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#4 · (Edited)
I bought my Tractor in May and by July I had my iMatch on order. Got tired of mashing my fingers every time I needed to swap out the back blade with the carry-all. The first time I backed up and dropped the carry-all and picked up the blade I laughed at how stupid I was not to have bought the iMatch right from the start.

btw, I ordered/bought mine through Green Farm Parts right here on the site. Showed up 3 or 4 days later right at the front door. If you use the discount code over in their forum you get 12% off right now.... That pretty much covers the shipping charge.


Doh! My bad. Sorry. I guess the promo ended last Sunday. Boooo!
 
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#5 ·
I agree with the others. I bought my first imatch when they first came out many years ago. I then converted all of my non compatible equipment to fit it.
The only way I will give them up is when I can no longer use a tractor.
 
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#6 ·
I can honestly say I never wanted or felt I needed one...........Since we got the chipper it has made the swap back to ballast box and back to chipper a real snap.
They do add some aggravation to hooking up a PTO shaft on these small tractors.
 
#7 ·
I could not do with out my i-match hitch. It just makes life easier so why not have one.
 
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#8 ·
I have the $79 Harbor Freight Quick Hitch. It's a little sloppy and the upper hook and frame bind up on my TSC Carry-All. I would have bought the JD when I bought the Tractor if I had known how useful it is.

I wouldn't be without one. You don't have to consider hook up time or effort. Makes a BIG deal when working around the place. Just go get something.

3 must haves:

Quick Hitch (or iMatch)
Kens Hooks
Piranha Bar ( I think..don't have one yet but I see every day the need)

The parking loader, MMM, and backoe with the unbelieveable ease of connection is what sold me in the first place. The quick attach completes the system and makes this thing a swiss army knife.
 
#10 ·
I had a HF unit for about 8 yrs , never regretted my choice. When I traded this summer needed a 2nd attachment so I bought the I Match with adj top hook ,, like the HF . I'm thinking when I got the HF Deere only had a fixed top hook. If you buy or have any used eqpt the adj top hook is the way to go. I bought a used 5' blade and I always have to move the top hook so I can use the blade.

Had I got the original I-Match with the fixed hook I could see it getting a lot more use....

My 2 cents no way it would have been used alot more, it would have been sold a long time ago if either of mine was a fixed hook..
 
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#11 ·
Mine binds up with my attachements and that's why it doesn't get used. My tiller is way heavy so I put my quick hitch on to aid in hooking up. It's clunky though. I would rather make my other stuff for a fixed hook I-Match. Just my $.02.
 
#13 ·
I have the HF one and quite honestly, like 636mullet's, mine sits on the shelf. It has the adjustable top hook and I even bought an adapter bracket thingy for when the hook just plain wouldn't fit. I don't really have much trouble hooking up my tiller, rear blade, BB or bush hog. I find hooking up and unhooking to be pretty easy on this 1026r. That's not saying that I don't have to muscle some things around, or a choice word doesn't fly out of my mouth occasionally.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#14 ·
I-Match????

So everyone really likes the I-Match. My question is what do you have to do to put on a backhoe on a 1025R? If I only have a box blade, a ballast box, and a backhoe for the backend seems like it's extra work if I have to take off the box blade, then take off the I-Match in order to put on the backhoe. If I don't have an I-Match I only have to take off the box blade to put on the backhoe. Where am I going wrong on this or can you leave the I-Match on when you put on the backhoe? Somehow I don't think so.
 
#17 ·
So everyone really likes the I-Match. My question is what do you have to do to put on a backhoe on a 1025R? If I only have a box blade, a ballast box, and a backhoe for the backend seems like it's extra work if I have to take off the box blade, then take off the I-Match in order to put on the backhoe. If I don't have an I-Match I only have to take off the box blade to put on the backhoe. Where am I going wrong on this or can you leave the I-Match on when you put on the backhoe? Somehow I don't think so.
I was under the impression that in order to install a 260 backhoe, you had to remove the entire three point assembly including the top link and lower draft arms. In that case, the iMatch and implement would certainly have to come off but separating the iMatch doesn't have to be an extra step. When you sit the implement down, leave the iMatch connected to it and simply remove the quick hitch from the three point arms.

I don't have one but would like to. I have to drop my implements on dirt, and they don't slide easily if I need to make an adjustment while hooking one up. As implements get larger for larger tractors, this becomes more of an issue. It may not be for everyone, but I certainly see the advantage.
 
#15 · (Edited)
My Imatch came with the tractor. Apparently the dealer thinks I will never take it off as the pins that hold it on have cotter pins in them instead of something easier to remove. To be honest I have never had a need to take it off. I can back up and attache my rear bagger with ease. Same for the tiller. I have to raise the top hook up to hook up to my core aerator, but that's ok. My Heavy Hitch only comes off if I have to attach an implement. Next spring I hope to add other 3pt attachments and the Imatch is a big reason why. Like you said, they aren't cheap, I think mine was $315, but well worth not having to wrestle around implements, especially if you have a bad back like me.
 
#16 ·
I Match justified...

I'm picking mine up for my JD 1026R this next week :greentractorride:

After switching out the back blade to the boom pole, then to the ballast box,
yeah....:flag_of_truce: I surrender to an easier & SAFER way to switch implements!
 
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#19 ·
I had the Harbor Freight version with the adjustable top hook. I think it may have been $100. For the most part I did like it alot, especially on my old Ford tractor that had the stabilizer chains to adjust on the 3 point sway bars. I never had to touch these chains again with this Harbor Freight hitch installed.

I found a better option for my 3320 Deere. My 3320 Deer has the adjustable stabilizer bars which makes things much nicer. I added the Pat's Easy change rather than the i match. I love the Pat's Easy change. You have much better access to the PTO shaft. I also found with the i match style hitch that you have fit issues with non Deere brand implements at times getting them to fit properly. I had to use a grinder to make things fit properly for my older Deere snow blower and some of my King Kutter implements.

Pat's Premium 3-Point Quick Change Hitch — Category 1 | 3-Point Hitch Adapters| Northern Tool + Equipment
 
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#20 ·
What about the SpeeCo flavor, anyone have experience with it?

Jim
 
#21 ·
SpeeCo



I bought one. Has the adjustable top hook, and top link adapter. I set the hook where I needed it and have not had a need to change. If you do need to change the hook often just take the bolts out and put some pins in.

For the price I'm happy.

Only implement that does not fit is the small tandem disc. But I don't use it that often.

I built a suitcase weight hitch with a receiver hitch welded on. I for the most part never comes off. All my small implements hook up with the receiver.

:hi:
 
#24 ·
I had to do a lot of trimming on my speeco. The bottom hooks are way to thick and would hit the implement before the hooks would line up with the pins...on a couple of implements. Plus I added sort of a ramp section above the bottom hooks as they had about 1/2-3/4 shelf where the implement wouldnt slide down into the hooks very good. The pins would hang up on that shelf. The lower hooks are also thick and doesnt have as much clearance and would rub or snag against the implements in width too. I think the JD imatch is well worth the extra cost.
 
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#34 ·
I had to do a lot of trimming on my speeco. The bottom hooks are way to thick and would hit the implement before the hooks would line up with the pins...on a couple of implements. The lower hooks are also thick and doesnt have as much clearance and would rub or snag against the implements in width too.
I had the same issue with my Harbor Freight quick hitch. I had to take my plasma cutter and shave off some of the hook thickness so I could get it to line up on my implement pins without first hitting the implement. My King Kutter tiller was definitely difficult to hook up until I modified the hooks.
 
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#26 · (Edited)
Either brand I get I am sure this question still applies. What about a shaft that has been shortened for no quick hitch. I realize adding the quick hitch will make the implement sit further back a couple inches, is this "enough" to warrant getting a new and longer shaft for it? I have a King Kutter tiller that I took ~3" out of the factory shaft, it has just over the 1/2" of clearance needed at the PTO.

/edited (Remembered it would not be in-play for a post hole digger)

Thanks in advance,
Jim
 
#27 · (Edited)
Either brand I get I am sure this question still applies. What about a shaft that has been shortened for no quick hitch. I realize adding the quick hitch will make the implement sit further back a couple inches, is this "enough" to warrant getting a new and longer shaft for it? I have a SpeeCo post-hole digger that has stock length shaft and works well. I also have a King Kutter tiller that I took ~3" out of the factory shaft, it has just over the 1/2" of clearance needed at the PTO.

Thanks in advance,
Jim
I did the same thing before buying my quick hitch. ....shortened my tiller shaft. Luckily tractor supply has an extension that slips on your pto just for that. It added about 4-5 inches .Actually it makes putting a drive shaft on a lot easier since it sets back some. I think it was about 20.00 Unfortunately no post hole digger will work with a QH.
 
#28 ·
While on the subject of iMatches, does anyone know the measurements of the top hook on the JD iMatch from the point on the hook to the outside bottom of the curve?

The reason I ask is I have a Land Pride QH15 Quick Hitch and I have one Land Pride implement and two JD Frontier implements. The Land Pride has lots of room for the hook to lower and "let go" of the implement. The Frontier implements on the other hand, have barely enough room vertically to insert the hook. When I detach the Frontier implements (doesn't matter which one), the bottom of my hook scrapes hard on the lower part of the opening even while the point on the hook is grazing the top link bushing enough to make it turn slightly. In other words, zero clearance.

I don't understand why JD would have made this opening so small when they could have easily had 1" more clearance at the bottom and not weakened the implement in the slightest. You can see how the paint is scraped away on the bottom lip of the rake opening. My Frontier plow scrapes the same way.

Below is a photo of my Land Pride plow and Frontier rake. The yellow arrow shows the dimension I am referring to. I have a Frontier plow that has a similar small opening for the top hook and drags when detaching.

Could it be that the JD iMatch hook is smaller than my Land Pride hook?

Soil
Green Grass
 
#30 ·
While on the subject of iMatches, does anyone know the measurements of the top hook on the JD iMatch from the point on the hook to the outside bottom of the curve?
Mine measures 4.25" from the tip of the hook to the bottom of the curve.
 
#29 ·
I LOVE my iMatch. Even with just a ballast box and boxblade I can't imagine not having the quick connect ability. Ease of implement attachment/removal was the primary reason I went with the 1025R compared to other brands and this just extends that functionality to the 3pt.
 
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#31 ·
I-Match

I love all the comments on this thread and thanks to all. I'm still on the fence about the I-match. I've built dollies for all my attachments that are built and designed so that they all line up perfectly to the arms on the tractor. Made me crazy when they were on the ground and I had to fight to get them attached to the arms. Now I just roll them all to the tractor on the concrete floor of my shed and it's pretty fast. Even the custom dolly I made for my backhoe works great. After I built the backhoe dolly I had my wife time me the second time I tried putting it on and taking it off. It took 2 minutes to get the backhoe on the tractor and 1 minute and 50 seconds to get it off and that includes attaching and detaching all the hoses as well. I built the dolly so I don't have to use the outriggers to get the backhoe hooks at the right height to attach to the tractor, they are already at the correct height and angle on the dolly. That saves considerable time. The speed also comes from not having to line the tractor up with the attachment but rather just rolling the attachment to the tractor on the dolly. For my box blade dolly I had to make wedges to sit under the box blade to put it at an angle so the pins would sit at the right place to attach to the arms.

I may still buy the I-match but not sure I want to lay out the money yet. :cheers:
 
#32 ·
I have the iMatch. The Speedco looks very much the same in my opinion and a fraction of the cost. But at this point I don't think about how much the iMatch cost, I just know it is worth every inflated penny. I switch implements very often through the year, from snow blower to back blade, to ballast box, to rough mower, to finish mower to box blade, to trailer hitch, to ...

The only two things that are not compatible are my landscape rake and the post hole digger. The PHD can't use it because of the boom being the top link, and the rake is going to get modified one of these days to make it work. I spent a couple hundred bucks on a conversion kit for my rear finish mower to make it compatible and I don't regret it. I replaced the cotter pins with lynch pins for when I do have to remove the iMatch it is easier.
 
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#35 ·
Hahahah. Apparently my mind was not in the gutter... I have no problems with the other one.. :p

I am one of those impulse people though and I picked up a SpeeCo just a couple hours ago. Got it with 3 sets of bushings (need 2 more sets) for $225 out the door. Land vehicle Vehicle Tractor Agricultural machinery Automotive tire


Jim
 
#36 ·
Good deal! Looks like they have changed quite abit on it from when I bought mine. There is no way a bushing will fit into my speedco. A 3/4 or is it 7/8? pin is all there is room for. Plus ,looks like the bottom hooks aren't nearly as thick as mine was. Mine was bright....I mean neon red bright too. I painted it JD green....but everywhere there is a scratch, that red shows through. Glad you got a good'n!!!
 
#37 ·
Bought the JD version after looking at the others. Don't know why I waited so long. Norther Tool has bushings that are less expensive, but the fit and hole locations are a bit sloppy. But nothing that can't be made to work.

A co-worker finally bought a knock off and wondered why he waited so long to get his.

You'll enjoy it once you get it.
 
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