1025 electrical issue
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    1025 electrical issue

    Had the 1025 for a couple years without issues. Used it all winter, went to start it this morning and seems to be some sort of electrical issue. Disconnected and reconnected the battery without help. https://youtu.be/5PzlxHT_lxo

    Any thoughts, checked battery reads ok via voltmeter, and all the fuses seem fine.

    Thanks

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvanderhorst View Post
    Had the 1025 for a couple years without issues. Used it all winter, went to start it this morning and seems to be some sort of electrical issue. Disconnected and reconnected the battery without help. https://youtu.be/5PzlxHT_lxo

    Any thoughts, checked battery reads ok via voltmeter, and all the fuses seem fine.

    Thanks
    When you say it reads okay with a volt meter, what was the reading? Did you measure the voltage while turning the key?

    Do you have any way to load test the battery? If not, measure the voltage with the ignition on and turning the key to the start position. Let us know your findings.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    JamesCE's Avatar
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    Looks like a dead battery

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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    1025r FILB, 47" Snowblower, Front Blade, Quick Hitch

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    Charge the battery and see what happens. If it won't take a charge you may need to replace the battery. Fully charged good battery should show about 13 +volts.

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaseIH574 View Post
    Charge the battery and see what happens. If it won't take a charge you may need to replace the battery. Fully charged good battery should show about 13 +volts.
    The OP stated that he's used the tractor all winter so it's not like it's been sitting around. Good batteries don't normally just go dead unless you've left the lights on, key on, etc. Without exception every wet cell battery I've ever had that suddenly went dead ended up being bad.
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    JD4044M's Avatar
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    Does your tractor have a PTO over ride switch? My tractor won't start if the PTO Switch is pulled up/on just a thought because you said the battery was reading good voltage and not engaging the starter at all? It has to be off and in my seat except I By-passed the seat switch to much of a hassle to deal with I need to sit/stand up to often while it is running to see the forks and such while moving.

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    Start with removing the battery cables and cleaning the cable ends and posts with a post cleaner brush, made for that purpose. They sell them just about any place that even has basic auto supplies. If you have by chance replaced a cable post clamp with one of those universal clamp on wire type, they are notorious for corroding up between the cable wire and the clamp.

    Will it start if you jump it from you vehicle?
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    As others have said, it is definitely a battery issue. Terminals corroded, battery needs charged or battery is no good.

    I would approach the repair in that order. Check the terminals first, then try to charge the battery. It it holds a charge and it starts, you battery may be ok. The test will be if it stays charged until you use it the next time.

    The best is charge it and take it to an auto parts store (call them first) to get it load tested.
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray_PA View Post
    The best is charge it and take it to an auto parts store (call them first) to get it load tested.
    Just be careful to avoid this:

    Me: Can you please load test my battery
    Clerk: Sure... Yep! The battery is bad
    Me: Umm... shouldn't the test leads be connected to the battery?
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    I've seen all sorts of weird battery fails, and you would swear they had to be good. That is until under a load. I once drove to the store and when I came out to leave, all it would do is click the solenoid. The dang thing died that quick and with no prior warnings like slow cranking before hand. At first I refused to believe it could be the battery, did all the normal cleaning, wiggling etc, but yep, it was the battery. Another time I bought a trolling motor battery at K-mart back in the 80's. It was a brand name(can't remember now), the kind with a glowing green eye so you could see if it was charged. I charged it, green eye good, would not work. Took it back for an exchange. Same thing. I took it back again and the sales dude thought I was some sort of a dummy. Got a refund after some arguing with them not wanting to give me my money back. Went somewhere else and bought a battery of another brand and it worked just fine. Must have been a bad batch.
    keane likes this.
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