Ballast Question
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    oaksmith's Avatar
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    Ballast Question

    Need some opinions on the ballast that I'm hoping to use on my JD 1025r with loader. There is no fluid in the tires at this time.
    I was planning on using only a iMatch hitch along with a Heavy Hitch with suitcase weights. My question is will this work and if so, how much weight should I use? Will there be any reason to put fluid in the rear tires?

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Please read the manual that came with your loader. That probably will not be enough ballast. For the H120 loader JD recommends a minimum of 601 lbs. of rear ballast along WITH fluid filled rear tires.

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    Why not just buy the JD ballast box for $150? The suitcase weights will be over $65 each, and you would need a whole lot of them to equal a ballast box filled with sand or concrete. Plus with an Imatch you can back right up to it and pick it up without getting off the seat. If storing it is an issue, you can leave it sit outside. Nobody will even try to pick it up and take it, and there are no moving parts that would be bothered by the weather.

    Filling the rear tires does nothing for ballast because the added weight is on the axle (pivot point). It only helps bring the center of gravity lower on the tractor when driving on slopes.

    Hope this helps.
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    Ballast Question

    Well I'm using just the Heavy Hitch. I however have eight 70 pound weights and eight 42 pound weights. My Heavy Hitch holds 16 weights. So with all 16 weights I can have 896 pounds on the Heavy Hitch. Since my 1025r is used for mowing lawn I didn't want the extra weight of fluid filled tires.


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    Last edited by cheesetrain; 10-20-2014 at 09:40 PM.
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    oaksmith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonton View Post
    Why not just buy the JD ballast box for $150? The suitcase weights will be over $65 each, and you would need a whole lot of them to equal a ballast box filled with sand or concrete. Plus with an Imatch you can back right up to it and pick it up without getting off the seat.
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I figured the ballast box would sick out the back a good bit more then if I went with the heavy hitch.
    I was given a imatch that I reconditioned and need to decide how I want to gain ballast before spending any money on one or the other.
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    Quote Originally Posted by oaksmith View Post
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I figured the ballast box would sick out the back a good bit more then if I went with the heavy hitch.
    I was given a imatch that I reconditioned and need to decide how I want to gain ballast before spending any money on one or the other.
    The ballast box doesn't stick out all that far, it's more compact than the backhoe, that's for sure. The ballast box is less than 20" from the lower links I believe. The heavy hitch might save about 6" or so... if 6-8" makes that much of a difference, you are operating in some very tight quarters. Additionally you want the weight as far behind you as possible.
    Last edited by Green Man; 10-20-2014 at 10:13 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by oaksmith View Post
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I figured the ballast box would sick out the back a good bit more then if I went with the heavy hitch.
    I was given a imatch that I reconditioned and need to decide how I want to gain ballast before spending any money on one or the other.
    Well, in all reality the ballast box being further out beyond the rear axle is actually a benefit. The farther out from the pivot point the more counter leverage you produce. The difference will be about 6 or so inches of extra length with the ballast box vs the Heavy Hitch and weights. BTW, you can weld a 2-1/2" square tube to the top of a ballast box, drill a 1/2" hole through it, and you have yourself a receiver.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tonton View Post
    Well, in all reality the ballast box being further out beyond the rear axle is actually a benefit. The farther out from the pivot point the more counter leverage you produce. The difference will be about 6 or so inches of extra length with the ballast box vs the Heavy Hitch and weights. BTW, you can weld a 2-1/2" square tube to the top of a ballast box, drill a 1/2" hole through it, and you have yourself a receiver.
    Exactly! My dealer here and I had this very same conversation this summer. Anyway, thought I would pass this along. ...oh, and, instead of filling my box with concrete, I opted to use patio pavers. That way I can increase or decrease the weight as it applies. "If" I need to store or move it to a tight location it maneuvers quite well with a little off loading of the weight and no tractor needed. Contemplating the addition of a receiver hitch to the box now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1122.jpg  
    Last edited by HouseMouse; 10-21-2014 at 04:06 AM.
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    1026R with block heater and Curtis Cab, iMatch, Ken's Bolt on Hooks combo, 54" Front Mount snow blower, 60" MMM, H-120 FEL, Ballast Box, 100Lbs wheel weights, BB2048, sprayer with 7' boom, Front Mount HeavyHitch, John Deere tow behind spreader, 260 Backhoe With BXPanded Thumbs, Bro-Tek 1.5" Spacers.

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    In reality, the Heavy Hitch sticks out only 6" from the iMatch with the weights and can be reversed to not stick out at all. I also run starter weights on my 1026R and work in some extremely hilly terrain and have had no problems whatsoever moving over 450 yards of gravel. Another benefit of the HH versus the ballast box is it will not drag on the ground. The ballast box must be raised creating a higher center of gravity, where the HH can be left low. Yes, the weights are expensive, but they never wear out and can be used in other places on the tractor. One last thing regarding the receiver, it is visible from the tractor so you can easily back and pick up a trailer without leaving the seat. A receiver welded to a ballast box would be pretty difficult to see. I needed something compact for tight spaces and the HH with weights is over 14" shorter with the receiver out and over 20" shorter with the hitch reversed then a regular ballast box. I wasn't worried about the additional leverage, I just needed a compact design while still providing ballast.
    Last edited by Heavy Hitch; 10-21-2014 at 06:45 AM.

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Good post Heavy Hitch.
    I agree with you on all points. I was reluctant to buy a ballast box but lack of nothing else I did. Not sure Heavy Hitch was around at the time and if it was I didn't know about it.
    I had a weight for our 650 that I used for 20 years but it just wasn't heavy enough. To this day I am still backing into things with the ballast box, especially our fence when snow plowing.
    I still do not have a trailer hitch for the very reasons you mentioned.
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    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD, The Wife
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

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