Remove auto-connect mower parts before plowing snow?
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    cheesetrain's Avatar
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    Remove auto-connect mower parts before plowing snow?

    If this should be in a different category feel free to move it.

    A question to those who have a MMM with auto connect for their 1 series tractor and also move snow with it. I know to use the front snow blower you have to remove the auto connect linkage, but what about if I am using it with the 54" blade to plow snow? I was thinking that I would at least remove the PTO portion of the auto connect and leave the mower arms, but what do you folks think? Should I remove the mower lift arms as well?

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    1025R w\ block heater and one rear work light
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    The lift arms and pto connect can be removed in a mere 2 minutes by pulling 4 pins on the arms (no tools) and leaving it as a whole assembly. It wouldn't make sense to turn a wrench to remove the auto connect part and leave the arms in place. Just be sure to also remove the lift linkage too so they aren't just hanging there.

    If you think you'll be climbing hills full of ice chunks it could get hung up on, the removal of the whole assembly is quick and painless.

    (Edited to add the following) To clarify, here's a graphic of the mower lift linkages. If you pull pins 5 and 6 on both sides, the entire assembly (arms, rear draft, auto connect) will remove. Of course you have to disconnect the PTO shaft too. Be sure not to leave items 7 and 8 hanging and don't spin 8 because that affects your deck leveling. Next spring all you have to do it put 7/8 back on (with the round P shape facing the rear), attach the 4 pins and the PTO and you're good to go.

    Last edited by Traction; 10-22-2014 at 02:43 PM.
    Levi likes this.

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    cheesetrain's Avatar
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    That's what I think I will do. If it's that easy to remove I may as well and store it with the mower deck. Doesn't make sense to have all that hardware hanging there through winter. Who knows how much snow we will get and what I may get into with the tractor.

    Thanks


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    1025R w\ block heater and one rear work light
    H120 FEL w 53" bucket, 54" QH blade, 60" MMM w\ autoconnect, mulch kit and independent lift kit
    JD 3 bag MCS with powerflow
    Land Pride RTA1250 tiller and CA1556 core aerator
    Imatch Quick Hitch
    JamisonBryce MCS Imatch adapter
    Heavy Hitch weight bracket & sub soiler combo
    CMP Attachments 60" HD front dethatcher
    Garber 72" 3pt mount drop spreader
    Countyline 3pt PHD with 9" diameter auger

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    ejb69's Avatar
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    I have the blower, so I have to remove the mmm auto-connect parts. Its not hard to do.

    But, I think it would be ok to leave the mmm parts on over winter. Just lock it in full up position.
    etcallhome and Levi like this.
    Eric

    2011 1026R / H120 / 60D auto-connect, independent-lift mmm / 54" snowblower / 4' KK Pro rotary mower / KK 4' tiller

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    I just lock mine all the way up when switching to blade for snow. No problems yet.

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    I don't have the auto connect deck - but I do remove the lift linkage every fall from my 2520 w/62D deck. Yeah, I know I could just tie it up, but just looking at the linkage hanging down underneath the 3-point arms makes me nervous. As said above it only takes 5 minutes to remove and install so I just do it for piece of mind. I had to replace on of the linkage arms the first year I had it (not related) and just that one arm is very expensive!
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    cheesetrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by coaltrain View Post
    I don't have the auto connect deck - but I do remove the lift linkage every fall from my 2520 w/62D deck. Yeah, I know I could just tie it up, but just looking at the linkage hanging down underneath the 3-point arms makes me nervous. As said above it only takes 5 minutes to remove and install so I just do it for piece of mind. I had to replace on of the linkage arms the first year I had it (not related) and just that one arm is very expensive!
    I guess for me the ground clearance on the 1 series isn't that much. Plus I have no idea what I will get into this winter when it comes to snow removal. last winter I ended up using my 24" walk behind snowblower to clear the actual street all the way to the stop sign. County wouldn't bother to plow it an let it pile up. After getting my car stuck twice I'd had it. The final straw was when they plowed the cross street and left a four foot high windrow across ours. One of my neighbors tried to go through with her car and you can all guess how well that worked. I ended up pushing her car out, then used my snowblower to clear her a path through. I then did the street from the stop sign to my driveway, about 150 yards long. Took me four hours.

    If I don't need it on for plowing snow, why risk it being there as expensive as the auto connect parts are? Since it's that easy to remove, I'm going to remove the linkage and the PTO and just store it with my mower deck for the winter.
    Last edited by cheesetrain; 10-23-2014 at 12:55 PM.
    1025R w\ block heater and one rear work light
    H120 FEL w 53" bucket, 54" QH blade, 60" MMM w\ autoconnect, mulch kit and independent lift kit
    JD 3 bag MCS with powerflow
    Land Pride RTA1250 tiller and CA1556 core aerator
    Imatch Quick Hitch
    JamisonBryce MCS Imatch adapter
    Heavy Hitch weight bracket & sub soiler combo
    CMP Attachments 60" HD front dethatcher
    Garber 72" 3pt mount drop spreader
    Countyline 3pt PHD with 9" diameter auger

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    Vern1026R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffman View Post
    I just lock mine all the way up when switching to blade for snow. No problems yet.
    X2 here.
    Vern


    [COLOR="#008000"]2012 1026R w/loaded R3's, H120 FEL, Artillian forks, Ken's hooks, auto 54D mower deck, 54 front quick hitch blade
    Heavy Hitch front weight bracket, Omni Transformer hitch and subsoiler, 8-42lb. hang on weights, psrumors seat spring upgrade, Land Pride 54" box blade, Frontier LR2060 landscape rake, J.D. IMatch, Bxpanded tooth bar, backhoe thumb and quick change b/h bucket adapter, recently added 260 backhoe and gently used JD 647 tiller.

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    So I took mine off today just to be safe, but I encountered these pins that I'm not used to. is there a trick for getting them off? I just forced it with a pair of pliers.

    On a side note taking the auto connect off the tractor made it easier to grease the zerks on it. I just set it up on the workbench...
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    2014 1025R

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    cheesetrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjarmstr View Post
    So I took mine off today just to be safe, but I encountered these pins that I'm not used to. is there a trick for getting them off? I just forced it with a pair of pliers.

    On a side note taking the auto connect off the tractor made it easier to grease the zerks on it. I just set it up on the workbench...
    I looked at them and thought what the heck as well. Haven't removed the arms yet. Dropped the deck but putty knife ain't cutting it. Gonna borrow my FIL power washer tomorrow.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1025R w\ block heater and one rear work light
    H120 FEL w 53" bucket, 54" QH blade, 60" MMM w\ autoconnect, mulch kit and independent lift kit
    JD 3 bag MCS with powerflow
    Land Pride RTA1250 tiller and CA1556 core aerator
    Imatch Quick Hitch
    JamisonBryce MCS Imatch adapter
    Heavy Hitch weight bracket & sub soiler combo
    CMP Attachments 60" HD front dethatcher
    Garber 72" 3pt mount drop spreader
    Countyline 3pt PHD with 9" diameter auger

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