2305 bolts on final drive gear to rear diff gone
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Thread: 2305 bolts on final drive gear to rear diff gone

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    2305 bolts on final drive gear to rear diff gone

    the 10 bolts that hold the final drive gear to rear diff are gone. Appear they came loose and did not shear off. Has anyone else had this problem. 2305 2008 .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails final_drive bolt holes.jpg   axle_housing.jpg  

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    martincom's Avatar
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    I was going to say yes, but it is your thread on MTF I've been following. It is a bit unsettling, to say the least.
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    AJgrn78's Avatar
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    What are we looking at here? Is this the axle housing where it bolts to the differential housing?

    And sweet Jesus the metal shavings... Something was grinding.
    BigJim55, goat704! and JD4044M like this.
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    Yeah there is metal shaving (how many more inside scary?)and it is the right rear axle housing and right rear side where axle attaches. I cleaned the shavings on the side before the photo. The shavings are most likely from a piece of the housing the final drive gear destroyed. See pic. Basically need to replace the Diff housing. I posted here as well hoping to find some others that may have had this problem. I have only seen one other but no reply. Machine only has 540 hours on it. Goign to dealer in the morning before going other futher. I suspect I will find whole bolts in the sump and some damaged ones.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails gear.jpg  
    Last edited by con_priv; 04-12-2018 at 11:22 PM.

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    Doug's Avatar
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    I just have to ask did you not have any leaks before it all broke loose?

    Doug
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    Quote Originally Posted by con_priv View Post
    Machine only has 540 hours on it. Goign to dealer in the morning before going other futher. I suspect I will find whole bolts in the sump and some damaged ones.
    Im sorry for your troubles and sadly this looks to be a big one. I do not have a 2305 and can offer no help to you but I do appreciate you posting about your tractor. This is not the first post I have read regarding bolts missing and/or loose on different JD models. I own a 3520 and I have regularly combated loose/missing bolts on my tractor since purchasing it with 60ish hours on it. I know my post is offering nothing to help your situation however your post certainly helps mine (and maybe others as well) when the time comes to choose the next tractor. Reading about tractors literally falling apart with so few hours plus seeing things within my own model will be factored into my decision next time. I can deal with loose screws holding on various pieces of plastic, no big deal. I can see an occasional loose bolt fastening the fuel bowl, exhaust, or other such components, it sucks but tighten it and move on. However loose, missing, or broken bolts/hardware in critical areas of any machine resulting in these kinds of issues, expenses in repairing, and in some cases potential hazards for the operator is not the kind of things I thought I would be reading about JD products. These are the types of posts that makes me wished I had read more into compact tractors as a whole rather than just 3x20 machines when debating my last purchase.

    Again, I am sorry for your troubles and wish you luck on the repair. I hope you keep your thread updated with the progress, I will be following along.
    3520 (cab, eHydro, R1's, 300x fel, forks, grapple) Frontier 5' cutter, 7' Tufline disk, 6' Gill pulverizer, 6' box blade, 6' rear blade, TSC post auger, 6' Woods rfm, 8' JD rotary hoe, 8' Brillion cultipacker, 6' field cultivator, Tarter spreader, Fimco 3 point sprayer, subsoiler, ken's bolt on hooks & clevis, JD Z920 ZTR

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    I'm going to speculate that the bolts were either not torqued correctly, had no thread locker applied or both. I'm assuming it is out of JD warranty. It maybe worth reaching out to the transaxle vendor about it and maybe they would step up and make it right. You may want to look and see if you could come across a used assembly.

    With the amount of shavings ground up, you're pretty much looking at a complete tear down to not only clean the shavings & grind particles, but to inspect the bearings and other surfaces for accelerated wear from being lubricated by oil with the shavings & grind particles suspended in it.

    I don't know if I would quite be shaking my finger at JD, as ky_shawn. Most of the items he reported issues with are assemblies built by someone other JD. JD dislikes these issues as much as we do as they pay warranty claims on them and it impacts product reputation. Moreover, you'll find the same vendors building sub-assemblies for other brands. It isn't any different with on-road vehicles. Pretty much every 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck I've seen has a Dana/Spicer rear axle.

    Quite a number of years ago, I purchased a used "project" step van for my business. The BIG issue with the truck was the company doing the maintenance on it. The rear differential had a LOT of slop and was noisy. The ace stroke mechanic that did a rear brake job, had interchanged the primary and secondary brake shoes, didn't press the hub seals into the drum (they were sitting on the hub when I pulled the drums). This allowed all the differential flow out of the drum spindle, coating the brake shoes and running the differential dry. The differential spider gears seized to their shaft, causing it to twist of the pin/retaining bolt. This allowed the spider shaft to spin in the carrier housing, oblonging the holes. The only thing I salvaged from the rear axle was the ring & pinion, the housing (thank God), and the axle shafts. Of course, this was just one of many issues with that truck. It was a year of nights and weekends making it right and I spent almost 10 time what I paid for the truck in parts.
    Last edited by martincom; 04-13-2018 at 08:10 AM.
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    Ky_shawn - Reminds me of when I used to own Harley’s. You could literally watch parts fall off when sitting there idling.

    540 hours seems like nothing on a unit like this. They should be built to 3000 hours before you talk replacing parts. Sadly I can’t blame Deere of all the members on here most of their posts are of the bad. I think they just don’t share the good times as much as they should.

    Fix it and trade it back to the dealer. That would be my suggestion, also what I did with my 6.0 Ford F-350. (In the end not sure who screwed who)
    I
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    This kind of failure is completely inexcusable... Who goes over every piece of equipment they own and check every bolt with a torque wrench??

    If the vendor can't supply an assembly that is correctly torqued together with thread lock to avoid FALLING APART, they should find a new vendor. This is still on JD.

    Hope you can fix it without excessive costs, I'd be looking for a used unit from a salvage tractor.
    1984 JD 316 w/ cat 0 3-pt hitch and 2000 rpm pto, 48" tiller, 49" snowblower, 42" belly mower
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    1980? Satoh S550g Elk, 60" belly mower
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJgrn78 View Post
    This kind of failure is completely inexcusable... Who goes over every piece of equipment they own and check every bolt with a torque wrench??

    If the vendor can't supply an assembly that is correctly torqued together with thread lock to avoid FALLING APART, they should find a new vendor. This is still on JD.

    Hope you can fix it without excessive costs, I'd be looking for a used unit from a salvage tractor.
    I agree, the quality control is fully on JD
    Last edited by ky_shawn; 04-13-2018 at 12:28 PM.
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