First plowing with my 1025r
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    fpdsniper's Avatar
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    First plowing with my 1025r

    Ok, I went from a 2305 to a new 1025r this year. When plowing last year, I did not have or use a ballast box or chains. My driveway is mostly flat concrete, and 4wd did just fine. On the 1025r, I decided to try the ballast box with bags of sand in it. I soon realized that I had too much weight in the rear, and not enough weight on the front axle. I had a hard time turning even in 4wd, it just wanted to push forward. I took one 70lb bag of sand out, and that definitely helped. I am also running a poly edge on my new 54" plow. I used the same edge last year on the 2305, and they do a great job of keeping your metal plow edge from grinding down and doesn't scratch up the concrete. I hope to get some Artillian plow extenders at some point. Still wondering if I need the ballast box on there, but it's not hurting anything. I also mounted an LED light facing the rear that is pretty much a must have for backing up while plowing. (I usually plow at night after work) My shop has a divider wall where I heat one side of it. The tractor is still inside, but not on the heated side. I have a walk through door that I can leave open to get some heat over there. Also looking at a Wolverine heater to attach to the oil pan. Thoughts? (Just trying to make this tractor last a LONG time...)
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    2014 John Deere 1025r
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    2008 Toyota Tundra SR5 Double Cab 4x4 TRD with level lift and aftermarket wheels/tires.

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    KD7CAO's Avatar
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    Up to you, but I would do a block heater and an EasyHeat thermostat. Let it heat where the manufacturer wants the heat to be. Been wondering if they are like Ford Diesels. Is the element already there and you are just adding a cord???
    2014 John Deere 1025R, 54D MMM, H120 Loader, 647 Rotary Tiller (purchased new from dealer April 2014)

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    fpdsniper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KD7CAO View Post
    Up to you, but I would do a block heater and an EasyHeat thermostat. Let it heat where the manufacturer wants the heat to be. Been wondering if they are like Ford Diesels. Is the element already there and you are just adding a cord???

    I would prefer the block heater, and wish I would have done that before the tractor was delivered. It would just cost too much to have it picked up, installed, and returned at this point.
    2014 John Deere 1025r
    John Deere H120 Loader
    60D drive over deck with hydraulic lift
    Femco 40 gallon 3ph Sprayer
    John Deere Ballast Box
    John Deere 54" Plow with Quick Hitch
    Craftsman Plug Aerator
    Ken's Bolt On Grab Hooks
    psrumors Custom Seat Springs
    OC Gizmo 2150 lumen LED Lights

    2008 Toyota Tundra SR5 Double Cab 4x4 TRD with level lift and aftermarket wheels/tires.

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    JKR
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    Quote Originally Posted by fpdsniper View Post
    I would prefer the block heater, and wish I would have done that before the tractor was delivered. It would just cost too much to have it picked up, installed, and returned at this point.
    I had the engine block heater installed when I order my 1025R. The cost of the engine block heater install before or after the sale is still less costly than a engine. The wear and tear on a cold diesel is not the same as a gas engine.

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    Is the block heater the same as the engine coolant heater? It looks like the coolant heater is about $78 for the cord and the heating element. I also see an "adapter" which is about $65 - not sure if the adapter is needed or if the coolant heater is all that is needed. Doesn't seem too bad for the parts, but I would imagine the labor will be at least the amount of the parts if not more...
    John Deere 1026R (MY 2012) Purchased April 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by JKR View Post
    The wear and tear on a cold diesel is not the same as a gas engine.
    Is the wear and tear on a cold diesel worse than a gas engine? I would think if it's really cold, there is essentially more incomplete combustion with a diesel vs. a gas engine, correct?
    John Deere 1026R (MY 2012) Purchased April 2013
    H120 FEL with 49" bucket, Ken's 5/16" Bolt on Hooks & BXpanded Piranha Tooth Bar
    60D (7-iron) Autoconnect MMM
    JD 3-Bag MCS w/Honda GC160 Power "Pak"
    260 BH with 12" bucket
    Artillian 42"x3" Forks w/2" Receiver
    48" EA XTreme Duty Box Blade
    36" EA Independent Wheel Lawn Aerator w/Alternating Depth Tines
    52" Ratchet Rake
    iMatch QH

    2003 John Deere LX266
    42" Freedom Mulching Deck
    Larger LX model wheels/tires

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    KD7CAO's Avatar
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    John Deere Parts Online Catalog: Block Heater Kits

    Looks like the adapter is to go from a flange to a screw in. Stinking adapter costs as much as the block heater. But, looks pretty straightforward to install. I am going to look at mine tonight. Many of the companies put everything in just don't hang the power cord off of it. If that is the case I will order a cord for mine.
    2014 John Deere 1025R, 54D MMM, H120 Loader, 647 Rotary Tiller (purchased new from dealer April 2014)

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    fdmars's Avatar
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    http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...all-1025r.html

    I am not the worlds best wrench turner, but with the above write up on how to install a block heater, I did it myself.....was pretty easy following along....just sayin
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    I had the engine coolant heater installed when I ordered my tractor and I am very glad that I did. Four days ago, it was 36 degrees F and I started the tractor without using the coolant heater. It coughed and sputtered and smoked for 20-30 seconds before it evened out.

    Today it's 23 degrees F. After plugging in the block heater for 30 minutes or so, the engine started right up with zero smoke. It started and ran as if it were summer (though I still let it idle for a few minutes before using it).

    The coolant heater is definitely worth the money. I'll be using mine until the temps go back above 50.

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Man View Post
    Is the wear and tear on a cold diesel worse than a gas engine? I would think if it's really cold, there is essentially more incomplete combustion with a diesel vs. a gas engine, correct?
    That's debatable on which engine design gets more wear and tear during a cold start, but I would lean towards the diesel. Reason being is the sudden expansion of expanding gases when diesel fuel ignites (the knock you hear when a diesel is running) is a massive and the sudden pressure increase on a bearing that doesn't have a source of pressurized lube oil yet. They depend on what oil is left in the bearing from the last run. This is why I prefer an oil pan heater in addition to the block heater. Warm oil flows better and gets there quicker. It's also less of a drag to turn a stiff oil pump which in turn makes the engine easier to spin. A faster spinning diesel starts easier. Win win in my book.

    Block heaters heat the block. Coolant heaters heat the coolant and convection carries the warm coolant to the engine. They are not nearly as efficient as the direct method the block heater uses. Coolant heaters need a good installation to operate correctly. A poor installation makes them not nearly as effective as they could be.

    A really cold diesel will definitely have incomplete combustion. You see that as white smoke that's very acrid smelling and will make your eyes sting and water if you get your face in it. That's unburnt fuel coming out the tailpipe.

    A moving blanket thrown over the hood, hopefully reaching the ground, makes any heater you use on the engine a lot more effective. Think about when you go to bed. If you are cold, you throw on another blanket right? This is a cheap and easy mod.
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