Question about winter use of........The Original Cab ...Product
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    Question about winter use of........The Original Cab ...Product

    I just purchased a snowblower for my 1023e. Living in Minnesota I値l be adding a cab for the winter. Right now I知 leaning toward The Original Cab , for purchase.. I知 going to go with the Glass windshield and electric wiper options. With our severe cold I知 wondering if I will experience fog or frost on the window inside. If so, how will I best resolve that issue. Like to hear and learn from your experience. Thanks, I like to plan ahead. Dan

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onceagain View Post
    I just purchased a snowblower for my 1023e. Living in Minnesota I値l be adding a cab for the winter. Right now I知 leaning toward The Original Cab , for purchase.. I知 going to go with the Glass windshield and electric wiper options. With our severe cold I知 wondering if I will experience fog or frost on the window inside. If so, how will I best resolve that issue. Like to hear and learn from your experience. Thanks, I like to plan ahead. Dan
    Welcome to GTT, by the way.......

    Minnesota people always thinking snow.......

    Yes, you will have fog and frost if you breathe, and if you don't, you will have other problems.

    I strongly suggest a hydronic heater and a 12 volt fan to circulate the air is very important. I have a Mauser cab on my 1025R with the roof mounted heater which is plumbed into the tractor engine collant system. It works extremely well. In fact, I can't run my heater on high even when it's 0 outside or it gets too warm.

    Be very careful about using an 12 volt heaters. They draw a lot of amps and are hard on the alternator on these tractors. You are going to need some LED lights to be able to see and others see you and those and the fan and the cab wiper are all you will want to add to the stock alternator.

    You can upgrade the alternator to the larger model, but it's about $400 if I recall. I have an extra brand new alternator for the 1025r as I put the large alternator on my tractor to run all my lights, cab, video monitors, etc. should you end up over loading and damaging your factory alternator.

    There are different hydronic heaters out there and the main thing is you want to make sure it's not in your way. choose carefully. Once you find one you like, don't hesitate to ask those of us who do a lot of snow removal our opinions. BTW, I plowed snow putting 170 hours on my tractor just last winter....
    mark02tj and kylew like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    Thanks for your response Sulley Bear. Some great advice, mixed along with great humor. Luckily we won稚 have snow here for another month. Hope to get more thoughts on my post.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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    Daveb's Avatar
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    I have a 2320 with an Original Cab on it with the glass windshield and wiper also. I've been using it for 7 years and very seldom have I ever had a problem with fogging up the windshield. I don't have a heater in it but have found that when blowing snow the engine works hard enough that I get heat from the engine into the cab to keep it comfortable. When the outside temps are closer to freezing is usually when I have experienced some fogging. I also find that blowing snow does not stick to the windshield if it is cold. Usually after about 15 minutes of blowing snow I'm unzipping my coat and switching to un-insulated gloves as I get too warm otherwise.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Picture 3.jpg
    2011 2320 w/R4's, 3rd SCV
    imatch hitch. Soft side cab
    47" front mount snow blower
    200cx FEL w/ 54" dirt bucket - added a 1/2" x 6" DBL Bevel Bolt on Cutting Edge
    42"tined utility bucket w/ grapple
    54" JD 3pt blade w/ hydraulic swivel
    Hydraulic Dump trailer 48" W x 72" L X 24" Deep w/cap of 4500 lbs
    2011 D110 w/ bagger, 42" 2-stage blower
    2016 x380 w/ 48" deep body deck and powerflow bagger
    91 STX38 - this was my Father-in-Law's lawn mower

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    etcallhome's Avatar
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    I've had several Original cabs over the years , with glass windshield , electric wiper on 2210,2305 and now Series 1 JD.

    For me I'm usually out 1-5 hrs or more plowing or blowing snow. So I bought a heater blower made to connect to diesel or gas engines.

    Yes not air tight and ,yes cold air still will come in cab but so much better than setting on the tractor without the cab. Yes depending on outside air temp, how long I'm out I can go without the heater turned on.
    Gene

    Have fun and be safe !!!
    USAR 8yr 8 mo SSG 99th ARCOM
    JD 1025R, H120 FEL 54" bucket, 54" mmm Auto Conn, 54" Front blade, JD back hoe ,JD IMatch, 48" Bush Hog tiller, Middlebuster from MF dealer, used King Kutter 5' rear blade, a new 47" JD Front blower and Original Tractor cab w/heater.
    We have a Red Honda Pioneer 700-4 (4 seater) w/soft top , doors, and winch.

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    I have an OTC and I would rate it as "satisfactory" and not anything more. The windshield mount is too close to the steering wheel so I always hit my hand on the windshield frame when turning the steering wheel. Also the right hand door is way too close to the SCV and when operating the lever my hand would always hit the door, so I had to put a huge bend in the metal frame of the door to move it outward to prevent my hand from always hitting it.

    On the plus side I have never had a problem with it fogging (I do not have a heater) and it beats sitting out exposed to the elements.

    For what I paid, I expected a better product without these design flaws.

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onceagain View Post
    Thanks for your response Sulley Bear. Some great advice, mixed along with great humor. Luckily we won稚 have snow here for another month. Hope to get more thoughts on my post.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    Cab Moisture and Fogging Issues
    If, in the process of clearing snow, you exit the cab to shovel or do something which gets you "warmed up" and breathing a little harder is when you are likely to see fogging, etc. when you reenter the cab and resume plowing or blowing. Your body heat and the extra breathing is when the fogging is likely to occur, just as it is in a passenger car which is cold from being outside.

    I do think the OTC cab's design helps offset the issue to some degree because it's not an "air tight" type of cab. The drafts which occur around the cab enclosure frame will help prevent many of the fogging or moisture issues. If your tractor is kept in a heated building and then taken outside, you are more likely to have the fog or moisture issues initially, as well. If your tractor is stored in a building which is close to the outside temps, then you are less likely to see moisture concerns with the visibility.

    Cab Comfort and Heater placement
    The outside weather makes a big difference as well. In my location, we don't get the bitter cold very often, so temps of low teens to low twenties are probably the most common. Fortunately, we don't get many of the below zero days. The engines on these tractors also throw quite a bit of heat back towards the operator and just that should add enough temp difference to make the cab more comfortable and likely above freezing temps.

    The placement of the heater is really a big issue as you don't want it affecting your leg movements or positions when getting in and out of the cab. You also don't want it affecting your use of the loader control. I have seen some heaters installed behind the seat, but that adds some complexity for the heater hose routing. Some mount the heater up higher in the cab, but you still have to deal with supporting the weight of the heater as well as the routing of the hoses. You also don't want to be looking around something in your sight line as that gets old in a hurry.

    Glove Friendly controls are Crucial
    Regardless of where you might end up mounting the heater, make sure it's very easy to adjust and turn on and off with gloves on when operating the tractor. Also, if you can get a heater with the control type valve to be able to vary the amount of hot water directed to the heater (like the knob in many passenger vehicles which controls the heat and AC) then you can adjust the temp and allow the blower motor to run continuously and circulate air, which makes the cab more comfortable.

    Snow thrower Chute Diffuser
    The two stage snow thrower will really throw the snow and can cause a lot of snow to circulate the cab and operator area. If you don't have a chute control diffuser on your snow blower, you might want to consider adding one to the blower to be able to have more control over the snow being discharged, which will tend to help your visibility and keep snow off the windows. There are several threads here on GTT discussing the sourcing of these as well as demonstrating their installation and proper electrical wiring. I think these are in the $200 to $250 price range for the unit, harness, switches, etc. Everyone who uses one really likes it.

    Rear Ballast Weight for Traction assistance
    Depending upon the amount of weight on the rear of your tractor and the tires on your tractor, you may want to consider grooving your tires if you have the R4's for increased traction. The threads will show a wide variety of results on the use of the 1 series for snow removal. Some use tire chains on the rear, and a few use tire chains on all four wheels. This may require wheel spacers for clearance, so keep that in mind as you are getting your tractor ready.

    Traction Improvement Approaches and Methods
    Instead of tire chains, some find that grooving their R4's provides enough of improved traction for their snow removal needs. Others use the "Terra Grips", which are made of recycled tires so the surface between the tire and the driveway or road is a rubber strap, to avoid damaging the concrete or asphalt. Rear tire chains are very popular, just beware that you may need to use wheel spacers for clearance.

    I found with enough rear weight on the tractor, I don't need chains or Terra Grips or any other traction aid. I built a 3 point mounted carry all for carrying snow melt in 5 gallon buckets and 50 lb bags. This carry all platform also has a snow shovel mounted on it as well as carrying a Honda walk behind Snow Blower for sidewalks, etc. Several of the driveways I plow have steep inclines and I have not had any traction issues. Until the snow gets deep, I plow in 2 wd to make tight turns easier.

    So, in the process of getting ready for plowing, think about the rear ballast source and amount as its critical for the proper machine balance and operation. Between the rear carry all and the I Match hitch, the snow melt bags and buckets, the snow blower and other items, my rear weight is about 650 pounds. That sounds like a lot, but I have yet to even use tire chains or the Terra Grips for any traction issues.

    Loading rear tires (and front tires as well), Pro's and Con's
    My rear tires are not loaded, nor are they grooved. I chose to not load the tires as I can carry the weight on the platform and it makes removing tires for any reason much easier. Since these machines use wheel bolts instead of having axle studs, it makes positioning the wheels and holding them in position to mount and dismount the tires and wheels more difficult for one person, which is why I have decided to not load my tires at this point.

    Also, since I am not having any traction issues, I haven't bothered with needing to increase traction. Should I begin to have traction issues, then I will first go the route of Terra Grips, then tire chains and then loading the tires if needed. This past winter I did a lot of plowing and did not have a need for additional traction.

    Check the Wheel Bolts for Proper Torque on your new tractor
    Regardless If you do end up loading the tires, adding wheel spacers or removing the wheels on your new tractor for ANY REASON, make sure to double check the wheel bolt torque occasionally. Or if you have a dealer perform any of this work, still make it a point to check the wheel torque yourself.

    As a new tractor, you should check the wheel bolt torque within the first 10 hours of use and then again at 25 to 50 hours of use. Then you should make checking the wheel tightness part of the normal service routine. When new, these wheels need to be checked as they seat and often, owners will find wheels which are not properly torqued just from use of the new machine. From memory, it seems like the proper torque for your front and rear wheels is 75 ft lbs, but check in your owners manual.

    We have had several GTT members have issues with loose wheels including losing a rear wheel while plowing snow and damaging the tractor and axle. So, make sure to check the wheel bolts on your new tractor as outlined in the Owners Manual and as part of your normal tractor servicing.



    Lot's to think about as you get ready for winter and snow removal.
    That's why getting started on it now is a great idea. Lot's of things to think about for your machine and getting it ready. There are lot's of threads on these subjects here on GTT as well as many who have dealt with the various issues i mentioned in this post.

    Good luck with your new machine and don't hesitate to ask for help on any of these or other matters.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





  10. The Following User Says Thank You to SulleyBear For This Useful Post:

    Onceagain(07-30-2018)

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    Just to follow up on my post. Today I ordered the original tractor cab. I received the order confirmation, no idea of ship date yet. My 80 Birthday is August 18, so nice present to myself.

    I知 going to use it and see if I have a moisture problem. I might add a water type heater if needed. At least now I知 prepared to handle the problem if it raises it ugly head. Knowledge is power, so thanks guys for sharing yours.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onceagain View Post
    Just to follow up on my post. Today I ordered the original tractor cab. I received the order confirmation, no idea of ship date yet. My 80 Birthday is August 18, so nice present to myself.I知 going to use it and see if I have a moisture problem. I might add a water type heater if needed. At least now I知 prepared to handle the problem if it raises it ugly head. Knowledge is power, so thanks guys for sharing yours.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    Congrats your 80TH birthday. Keep going you have my respect, I hope I have the same problem when I am 75. Good luck
    2018 2038R 220R FEL, 72" Mower, Radial tires, wheel spacers, dual rear SVCs, CtA grapple, single point for FEL, 60" broom with front hitch;2018 1025R 54"auto connect, HDAP tires, Quick Hitch, Ballast Box, Etc...;1967 1020 3cylinder gas, #47 FEL, 72" Landpride Grooming Mower, 6ft box blade, For Sale(no Hurry); life Member NRA since 1974

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    ISPTrooper's Avatar
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    I have an OTC for my X590 that I use strictly for spraying and snow removal. I致e had no issues with fogging, however I have a 12V heater/fan mounted in the roof. I haven稚 noticed the heater draining that much power, and I also have 9 very bright LED痴 mounted to the cab and the front of the tractor along with a LED light bar on top. I just hook it up to a battery tender once a week during the winter. It allows enough air inside during the summer to allow other uses as well.

    https://youtu.be/OihGskSYzE8


    https://youtu.be/K5AURgqg2Hg


    BigJim55 and mark02tj like this.

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