2025R Engine Reassembly
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    2025R Engine Reassembly

    Got a couple questions on reassembling the engine on a 2025r from a novice. I'm mechanically minded but never been inside an engine before.

    Quick back story is we have been using the tractor to mow at the office for ~4 years and the person mowing put it into the pond running nose first. Only the seat was sticking out when I went out there to wade in and pull it out by the lift arms. I honestly don't want to know really it's just better that way at times . Tractor was under insurance still so had the local deere dealer pick it up and take a look and report back was a bent connecting rod, the engines can't be rebuilt so $13k. Once some parts were depreciated we would have to put out about $3000 for it and said no thanks just bring us back the parts; we'll get a zero turn and deal with the tractor ourselves.

    Took the pistons down to our maintenance shop we use for the trucks and asked them to take a look (little smaller than the semi engines but we do a lot of work there and have a good relationship. Their opinion was they couldn't really find any bends/imperfections everything measured out exact that they could find. If there was anything it was very very minute. If it was theirs they would clean everything up really well and put it back together; see how it runs. Not looking to bash on anyone I get it; no one wants to put risk liability putting stuff together on an insurance job then it had an issue and breaks 3 months down the road due to something unforeseen. Instead it's if it could be wrong replace it.

    Got a gasket kit and technical manual. Found I'm missing half of the bearings that go to the connecting rods already so I'll have to order 3 sets of them and a ring set (busted an oil ring putting them back on). Here's my questions:

    1. The technical manual talks about making sure that every piston is marked to make sure that they go back into the cylinder they came out of. That's not going to happen unless there are marks I can't find. I got pistons and rods dissembled in a box along with (hopefully) all the bolts, ring clamps, etc that I'll need. Are the pistons marked somehow from the factory? I even tried looking for a wear pattern in common with the head and just can't make anything out.

    2. I'm seeing torque specs from 20 to 200-243. I'm assume a pretty basic set of 3/8: 10-90# and then 1/2: 20-250# will take care of me? I see 1/4" wrenches that say 20-200 on them but really question getting that much torque accurately with the wrenches as short as they are.

    Anything I really need to be aware of other than take my time, follow the manual and lots of lubriplate grease as it's going together?
    Last edited by Aranyic; 07-31-2018 at 08:19 PM.

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    goat704!'s Avatar
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    Pistons should have been marked during disassembly at dealership. If not have the block honed and get new ring sets.
    Your not building a high RPM race motor, so you should be ok.
    The 1/4" torque wrench is inch pounds, not foot pounds.
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    The pistons aren't marked by the factory. The same pistons are used in all cylinders and they are interchangeable when new.
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    Quote Originally Posted by goat704! View Post
    Pistons should have been marked during disassembly at dealership. If not have the block honed and get new ring sets.
    Your not building a high RPM race motor, so you should be ok.
    The 1/4" torque wrench is inch pounds, not foot pounds.

    I'll second this. The 1/4" wrench is in inch-pounds, which is great for small engines and transmission work, but not for a diesel. the 3/8 and 1/2 should be fine, but I would get them calibrated before you use them.

    I would get new rings and use a hone on the cylinders before re-assembly. Your local auto parts store may loan you one.

    If the dealer lost the bearings, make them give you new ones. Don't buy them unless you need to. I would also make sure the injection pump doesn't have water in it, and make sure to use NEW head bolts and NEW injectors. There is a very experienced ex-navy diesel tech I watch that I picked that up from. He said its better to replace the injectors now rather than have a tip blow off and wreck a new build later.

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    I too agree with everything said.

    The reason the manual wants you to mark them is because they are expecting you to put the same parts back in, and in that case, the rings are mated to each cylinder and its not a good idea to go swapping them cylinder to cylinder. Bearings too.
    But since it sounds like you are doing new rings and bearings, no worries there.

    Since you asked about the torque wrenches, Ill add this too.
    Make DARN SURE you are reading the torque specs correctly before you go tightening anything. Foot Pounds, Inch Pounds, and Newtons are not the same thing. If you dont know what the manual is calling for, post a picture and ask. Better to do that than to have to have hardened bolts removed because they were snapped off.

    Good luck with your rebuild! Wed all love to see pictures along the way!
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    Quote Originally Posted by IndianaJim View Post
    Since you asked about the torque wrenches, Ill add this too.
    Make DARN SURE you are reading the torque specs correctly before you go tightening anything. Foot Pounds, Inch Pounds, and Newtons are not the same thing. If you dont know what the manual is calling for, post a picture and ask. Better to do that than to have to have hardened bolts removed because they were snapped off.

    Good luck with your rebuild! Wed all love to see pictures along the way!
    Thank you very much for pointing that one out again. I probably should have picked it up off the comment earlier about the 1/4" torque wrench being in Inch lb earlier but some of my readings that I was thinking were foot# are actually Inch#. I would have screwed that one up without it being spelled out.

    I was out of town when the dropped it back off; loaded up on a trailer and brought it home. Here's what I got to start with when I unloaded it off the trailer Saturday morning in my garage. The surface rust and staining came out of the cylinders pretty easy but it look (this is a before pic) but it looks like I'll be doing some more work to them anyhow.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails engine block.jpg   full frame.jpg   parts box.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnH123 View Post
    I would get new rings and use a hone on the cylinders before re-assembly. Your local auto parts store may loan you one.

    If the dealer lost the bearings, make them give you new ones. Don't buy them unless you need to. I would also make sure the injection pump doesn't have water in it, and make sure to use NEW head bolts and NEW injectors. There is a very experienced ex-navy diesel tech I watch that I picked that up from. He said its better to replace the injectors now rather than have a tip blow off and wreck a new build later.
    Question on the injectors. The tractor took a bath at 300 hrs on the nose. The existing ones should have a lot of life in them should they not? Or should I be concerned about any thermal shock to them from going into the water hot. I can spend $750 on injectors if it's a good idea but I'm not sure if the low hours on the motor changes that equation at all?

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    Just caught up with this thread. Before you go any further with engine repair plans I have to ask if anyone has inspected the hydro for water contamination? If it was fully submerged it may have taken on some water through the vent. Best to check by draining it ASAP.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aranyic View Post
    Question on the injectors. The tractor took a bath at 300 hrs on the nose. The existing ones should have a lot of life in them should they not? Or should I be concerned about any thermal shock to them from going into the water hot. I can spend $750 on injectors if it's a good idea but I'm not sure if the low hours on the motor changes that equation at all?
    In general those injectors have a lot of life left in them, but in doing a complete engine rebuild it is simply not worth the risk to try and save a some money (in the overall picture) to try and reuse old injectors. I've been down that road with a truck engine, and sure enough, one injector tip after another, after the second one we replaced them all.
    Last edited by PJR832; 08-01-2018 at 08:30 AM.
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    IDK for sure-but if it was me doing this project-i think i would want to get the block dipped and baked-start out with a good clean block then.
    am i wrong in thinking like that?

    are u gonna take the injector pump off-and have that gone over?

    and like someone else stated -i would drain the oil of the hydraulics and rear end to see if water got in it. me thinks they seen more than meets the eye and that's why the bill was set at $13,000 to fix it. good luck with it.

    if no water in rear of tractor -then good. but i would find out first before attempting the motor.

    if no water in there-then go full steam ahead i guess.
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