1026R Value
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    1026R Value

    Folks, looking for some validation on my own thoughts, I have scoured the threads and for sale (online) ads and I am fairly certain I know the answer but I am trying to gauge how much of a deal this is as I do not need a tractor this large, its much more of a want. Currently get by with a D130 54" deck.

    8k OTD

    for a 2013 1026R used for mowing with the 60" Autoconnect mower, stored inside year round, looks virtually spotless. Just shy of 350hrs and comes with a JD tiller however it appears the auger shaft is broken and was told its a very $$$ part. I have no need for the tiller, I want it for the mower and future snow blowing with the option to add front loader and backhoe if I ever choose to. Not trying to argue that Garden tractor would be better suited for that (it likely would) but I have tested both and for the small price difference can not justify why I would go with a X7xx vs a 1 Series.

    My thoughts are this is a good deal and maybe hard to replicate in the future buy not by much, maybe $500-750 better then negating with dealer sans the tiller.........no idea how to value the tiller and without knowing what part is broke I assume no one here can help with that. Located in the Midwest if that helps

    Regardless of your answer a couple questions, local dealer has not gotten back to me with answers.
    *Are the new designed loader and backhoe a direct fit for the older 1026r? - I assume so
    *Whats the deal with the 1026R being less cold blooded then the 1025R, I know there was an engine change but do we know why they seem to start better then the newer ones in cold weather? - Maybe this is a false statement but have seen it referenced at least 3 times in my research and being in the cold(er) midwest sounds like it wouldn't hurt.

    Thoughts? and I appreciate the time

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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    Can't answer all your questions but as far as the engine is concerned, the 1026 has 1 HP more then the 1025 because of the EPA. The tiller goes from a $1000.00 to $1500.00 new. The new BH does not fit the 1026 as far as I know. The FEL should unless they made some changes I don't know about. When getting a FEL you also have to get the arms the FEL hooks to that is permanently mounted to the tractor. Same goes for the BH. $8000.00 for the tractor, MMM and a busted tiller still isn't a bad price. Anytime you look up a tractor with 4WD the price goes up. Good luck.
    SulleyBear and kylew like this.
    1026R -- 60D mmm -- H120 Loader -- Curtis 150 Tiller -- DR 3 point Chipper -- Howse Middle Buster -- Brinly 16 Blade Disk -- Kodiak 5' Box Blade -- 12-42 lb. suitcase weights -- Lawn roller -- Upgraded seat springs from psrumors -- Kennyd's bolt on hooks & clevis -- BXpanded tooth bar -- CMI 6' wagon -- Heavy Hitch Cultivator /garden bedder / hiller attachments --

    Donated by some great people/vendors on here: 72 lb. wheel weights -- Bro-Tek 1˝" rear wheel spacers.
    NRA Life Member

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    1026 has a tier 3 pre-emission motor. Older 1025 had a hard time starting smoothly in cold weather. I hardly ever plug in my 1026 unless it gets below 0, and it starts fine.
    Value is up to you and how bad they want to sell it.There proably are cheaper ones out there but price all depends on condition.
    Levi likes this.

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    From what if sounds like, the price isn't bad for what it is, not even considering the tiller. Maybe the tiller shaft can be welded and salvaged. Maybe just sell it as is for a few hundred.

    If you plan on only keeping the tractor a few years, you might get close to what you paid, but it might take some time to sell. Seems many people that are looking for a tractor that size also want the FEL minimum, as they don't want to hassle with getting one added later.

    Adding a FEL or BH to an older unit isn't hard, but it isn't necessarily cheap either (new). Finding used ones can be a long wait looking. If your interested in a FEL & BH, you may be better off to continue to look (used), or consider biting the bullet and take advantage of the 0% financing and get a new unit.

    My 2014 1025R in the winter....when it's about 30 or below, sitting in an unheated barn, it will cough a little white smoke at start-up, but quickly dissipates and runs fine. If I had a block heater I'm sure it wouldn't cough at all. Cold-blooded? Aren't we all at 30°
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    🌠Back in my day we had 9 planets🌠

    2014 1025R TLB
    60D AutoConnect Mower●H120 Loader●260 Backhoe●BB2048 Box Blade●RB2060L Back Blade●RC2048 Rotary Cutter●JD 60" Quick Hitch Plow Blade●Ken's Bolt-on Hooks●Ken's Diff Pedal●Ken's I-Match Hook●Ken's Backhoe Steps●Titan 42" Forks w/Headache Rack●Titan Ballast Box●Titan Toothbar w/23WTL Tiger Teeth●3" Edge Tamers●BXpanded 6" Bucket, Ripper & Bucket Quick Change●This & That Mods●Other Stuff I Forgot About●

    The Mrs. has 2014 X360

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    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post
    From what if sounds like, the price isn't bad for what it is, not even considering the tiller. Maybe the tiller shaft can be welded and salvaged. Maybe just sell it as is for a few hundred.

    If you plan on only keeping the tractor a few years, you might get close to what you paid, but it might take some time to sell. Seems many people that are looking for a tractor that size also want the FEL minimum, as they don't want to hassle with getting one added later.

    Adding a FEL or BH to an older unit isn't hard, but it isn't necessarily cheap either (new). Finding used ones can be a long wait looking. If your interested in a FEL & BH, you may be better off to continue to look (used), or consider biting the bullet and take advantage of the 0% financing and get a new unit.

    My 2014 1025R in the winter....when it's about 30 or below, sitting in an unheated barn, it will cough a little white smoke at start-up, but quickly dissipates and runs fine. If I had a block heater I'm sure it wouldn't cough at all. Cold-blooded? Aren't we all at 30°
    True enough (cold blooded at 30) - I expect I would keep this tractor for decades but what I am seeing is what I thought, its a good deal but not a "once in a lifetime" deal. I concur that finding a used FEL is hard however even though its zero percent its hard to pull the trigger on a 20k+ machine when you get buy with a hand me down D130 - but life's short and I like my "tools". I guess I will ponder more if I will get value out of such a machine.

    Thanks all for the feedback
    Levi, SulleyBear and kylew like this.

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    kylew's Avatar
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    To me, a 1026R/1025R that doesn't have a FEL is just a large lawn mower with 3 point capabilities. A bigger version of the X700 series. Yes it can fill a niche for some homeowners in that configuration, but once you add a FEL, it becomes a workhorse for its size.
    Levi and SulleyBear like this.
    🌠Back in my day we had 9 planets🌠

    2014 1025R TLB
    60D AutoConnect Mower●H120 Loader●260 Backhoe●BB2048 Box Blade●RB2060L Back Blade●RC2048 Rotary Cutter●JD 60" Quick Hitch Plow Blade●Ken's Bolt-on Hooks●Ken's Diff Pedal●Ken's I-Match Hook●Ken's Backhoe Steps●Titan 42" Forks w/Headache Rack●Titan Ballast Box●Titan Toothbar w/23WTL Tiger Teeth●3" Edge Tamers●BXpanded 6" Bucket, Ripper & Bucket Quick Change●This & That Mods●Other Stuff I Forgot About●

    The Mrs. has 2014 X360

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    I would do what you can to make darn sure that when that tiller blew up that no damage was done to the PTO on the tractor.
    Other than that I don't feel it is a great price with no loader. Maybe a good price but I'm thinking adding a loader will be a chore.
    Levi, keane, SulleyBear and 1 others like this.
    1025R FILB, vintage: 2015
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    Stihl equipment: Saws; MS261C, MS462C, MS661RCM and Blower; BR600 and Trimmer; FS70R and Hedge Cutter; HL 56K and Pressure Washer; RB400
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    snhay3's Avatar
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    I just bought a 1025r to mow my 4.5 acre front "yard", but one of the main reasons for buying it was for the loader. Had it 3 weeks and the FEL has been worth its weight in gold (numerous stumps removed and many piles of stuff pushed around ). 60" MMM and loader were key. Then before delivery I added a box blade (to complement the loader) and a rotary cutter for a nasty power line field. It was tough to swallow as I needed a new mower first but I feel I got a good deal and 0% was a big factor. If it weren't for the loader though, I was headed for a new mower.

    2018 1025R, 120R Loader, 60D MMM, BB2048, RC2048
    Levi, Marlin, Jeff B and 2 others like this.

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    ejb69's Avatar
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    If you are planning on adding a loader and or backhoe, your better off buying a tractor that’s already has them. I bought my 1026 without a loader . I Added a loader 5 years after the original purchase, cost me 3k and I installed it myself. I decided to get a loader after finding out what it woul have cost me to rent a skid steer for project. It’s handy to have a loader, but I seldom use it. I haven’t put it on since early June.

    I don’t know it the newer 1025s have starting issues or not. My 1026 has never failed to start on the coldest mornings in northern Wi.
    Levi, BigJim55, Marlin and 2 others like this.
    Eric

    2011 1026R / H120 / 60D auto-connect, independent-lift mmm / 54" snowblower / 4' KK Pro rotary mower / KK 4' tiller

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    HouseMouse's Avatar
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    Just chiming in here... My 26R always started at -18F without plugging in. Sputtered a bit but, always started. At -19F, I just stayed indoors.
    Tomfive, Levi, Marlin and 1 others like this.
    2017 Ford F350, 6.7, DRW, 4x4.

    1026R with block heater and Curtis Cab, iMatch, Ken's Bolt on Hooks combo, 54" Front Mount snow blower, 60" MMM, H-120 FEL, Ballast Box, 100Lbs wheel weights, BB2048, sprayer with 7' boom, Front Mount HeavyHitch, John Deere tow behind spreader, 260 Backhoe With BXPanded Thumbs, Bro-Tek 1.5" Spacers.

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