Advice for checking out a used 1026R this evening
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    Pedals2Paddles's Avatar
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    Advice for checking out a used 1026R this evening

    I'm going to look at a 1026R this evening that I'd like to purchase. It will be my first SCUT, upgrading from a 425. It is a 2013 with 230 hours, 54D mower with mulching kit, H120 loader, and 53" bucket. Selling price is $11,900 which seems to be the reasonable going rate based on scouring the used market within 150 miles of here.

    So what kind of things should I be looking at, looking for, testing, poking, sniffing, and tasting when checking the machine over? I am very eager to be getting this new toy tool, so I don't want to blindly overlook important things out of excitement.


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    Take a measuring device and check to ensure the loader arms are reasonably true. Common fluid level checks. Let me think some more.


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    1025r 60d and h120 with bucket. Quick hitch with barbell and weights for ballast.
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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    While it would be hard to check on a quick inspection, I would ask the owner if the drive shaft u-joints have been greased. Not terribly important with only 230 hours but probably should have been taken care of by now.

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    Also unhook and hook up the mower deck. If it had been originally installed incorrectly it will be difficult to do. This can be fixed with an adjustment procedure but would be frustrating for you just buying it and finding out the first time you remove or install the deck.

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    Last edited by coaltrain; 09-06-2018 at 11:54 AM.
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    Based on the picture it looks like the tractor is at a dealer so be sure to price out a new 1025R with the same configuration for comparison purposes. It will probably be in the $17,000 range with zero percent interest for 5 years. $5,000 more most likely isn't worth it, but getting a quote and having the numbers certainly wouldn't hurt. They can run the numbers while you test drive the used unit.

    The used price seems very reasonable for the package. Be sure the tractor comes with rear ballast, like a ballast box. Rear ballast is required with a loader. If it doesn't come with a ballast box, have them include one as part of the deal or plan to spend another $300 just for the ballast box. It wouldn't hurt to see if they'd throw in a FilterPak at the same time (air filter, oil filter, fuel filters, transmission filter).

    Plan on taking the mower deck off. Check the belt, tip the deck vertical and check the blades, grab the blades and try to rock them side to side (there should be no wiggle), get on your back to crawl underneath the tractor to check around for leaks, check the hydraulic hoses on the steering cylinder for rubbing or wear and the rubber boot where the cylinder connects to the wheel. It looks like it has the newer style loader so you shouldn't have to worry about cracked castings for the loader stand where the stand connects.
    Last edited by Traction; 09-06-2018 at 01:26 PM.
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    Pedals2Paddles's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. It is at a used equipment dealer. Most of their equipment is bought from Deere Financial (off lease or repos), or dealer trade in. They are not an actual JD dealer. I priced out new and it just wasn't practical. The 1026 get me basically the same machine for a bargain.

    A weight box is not included. However I don't really want one due to the size. Instead I'm going to get a heavy hitch and 8 suitcase weights (and a front weight bar, and a tooth bar).

    This shop has the weights for me, and I'm also going to pickup a used RH1060 back blade from them. They have HLA forks too but I might pass and get some Titans instead.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals2Paddles View Post
    I'm going to look at a 1026R this evening that I'd like to purchase. It will be my first SCUT, upgrading from a 425. It is a 2013 with 230 hours, 54D mower with mulching kit, H120 loader, and 53" bucket. Selling price is $11,900 which seems to be the reasonable going rate based on scouring the used market within 150 miles of here.

    So what kind of things should I be looking at, looking for, testing, poking, sniffing, and tasting when checking the machine over? I am very eager to be getting this new toy tool, so I don't want to blindly overlook important things out of excitement.


    I had a defective alternator bracket on mine so look for that under the hood...At that amount of hours there is not much that could be wrong, as long as the oils were changed at least once. The 1026R(I'm biased) may have been a better model than the 1025R ...less emissions means it won't smoke as much on startup...check on that when you start it, should be barely any smoke after pre heating the glow plugs.
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    Dave's 2012 1026R TLB,54"MMM Auto Attach,Ken's hooks&clevis,Artillian 36' Forks and a KennyPedal WH 520H 48" Snow Blade,48" Deck379 Peterbuilt (3 Million Miles in a big truck)

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    Ray_PA's Avatar
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    If it is a 2013, it is probably a 1025R. The 1026R was discontinued in 2012 and the 1025R replaced it in 2013. It could be an early year 2013 1026R because 2013 was the change over year, not that year is a big deal.

    Check the steering cylinder hose for wear. This year tractor the one hose rubbed the tire when steering all the way to the left.

    Check the air cleaner bracket for secure and also look at the air cleaner to engine connection hose to makes sure it isn't worn because it was hitting the hood.

    See if the mmm lifts with the 3 point control, main SCV or rocker switch mounted in the dash panel, lower left. If it lifts with the 3 point control, then it has the mechanical lift. If it lifts with the SCV, then it has the optional hydraulic lift that uses a QC that must be plugged in at the FEL connections. If it has the rocker switch, then it has the independent hydraulic lift. With the mechanical lift, the 3 point will raise and lower when raising and lowering the mmm. With either of the hydraulic lift systems, the mmm lift and lower is independent of the 3 point.

    If the mmm is mounted, start the tractor, engage the mid PTO, put range selector in low or high, release the parking brake and push the reverse propel pedal. See if the mmm shuts off or the engine stops when pushing the reverse pedal. Then turn the PTO off, restart the engine, if needed, turn the PTO back on, hold up on the PTO switch and back up. The engine or mmm should keep running now.
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    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    Ray_PA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chex313 View Post
    I had a defective alternator bracket on mine so look for that under the hood...At that amount of hours there is not much that could be wrong, as long as the oils were changed at least once. The 1026R(I'm biased) may have been a better model than the 1025R ...less emissions means it won't smoke as much on startup...check on that when you start it, should be barely any smoke after pre heating the glow plugs.
    The 1025R has no emissions controls.
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    JD 1025 TLB (2013) ** 60D 7 Iron MMM w/auto-connect ** H120 FEL** 260 BH ** 54" snowblower ** 54" blade ** 52" Front Broom ** Ken's Bolt on Hooks ** Frontier BB2048L box scraper ** County Line 5' landscape rake ** JD Hydraulic Dump MCS ** Artillian Forks w/36" Forks ** JD 3 - Point Ballast Box ** JD I-Match Quick Hitch ** Heavy Hitch front Weight Bar ** Heavy Hitch 3 Point Weight Bar ** Fimco 40 Gallon Sprayer ** EA Aerator ** FitRite Hydraulics Rear SCV ** 12 - 40# suitcase weights

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    Check the Transmission Filler Cap to ensure it has the updated version that prevents water from entering the Transmission. Check the front axle pivot points for leakage. Ensure the Drive line has been Greased. Check if the Loader arms are the updated version and not the ones with the Failing parking stand type. If it has the Power Beyond installed, consider it a bonus.
    Last edited by HouseMouse; 09-06-2018 at 04:46 PM.
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    1026R with block heater and Curtis Cab, iMatch, Ken's Bolt on Hooks combo, 54" Front Mount snow blower, 60" MMM, H-120 FEL, Ballast Box, 100Lbs wheel weights, BB2048, sprayer with 7' boom, Front Mount HeavyHitch, John Deere tow behind spreader, 260 Backhoe With BXPanded Thumbs, Bro-Tek 1.5" Spacers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ray_PA View Post
    The 1025R has no emissions controls.
    Exactly, it is due to how they are tuned that they start poorly.

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    MY2013 1025R TLB
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