1023 Trans Suction Hose Removal
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Thread: 1023 Trans Suction Hose Removal

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    pmhgeneral's Avatar
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    1023 Trans Suction Hose Removal

    Doing my first 50 hour service and I’m down to to removing the suction hose and the two clamps so I can get to the screen and magnets, top clamp I got off slid up the bottom? That’s the problem how does everyone do it I can’t even move the hose. Any help please


    JD 1023-E 2017 H-120 Loader, 54” AC MMD, Ballast Box, 47” JD Snowblower w/Quick Hitch & Remote Control Chute Flap, OT Cab w/Glass Windshield, Wiper, Heater, Armrest added, Front Led Lights, JD IMatch QH, Rear Hitch Receiver, Rear 3-pt Blade
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    Ray_PA's Avatar
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    Well, it isn't easy.
    Do you still have the right rear wheel/tire on?
    Did you remove the 3 point?

    Even though the job can be done with the right rear tire installed and the 3 point on, it is much easier if they are off. Now that said, since I have done mine several times now, I no longer remove either!!

    I have a pair or spring hose clamp pliers that I use on those spring clamps.

    Once the clamps are off, take a pair of pliers and work the hose back and forth to break it loose from the tubes.

    Once you break it loose, work the hose up onto the top tube.

    I now have regular hose clamps on mine. I do not trust the OEM spring type hose clamps. Once they are removed and reinstalled several times, they can loose their tension.
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    I used a wide blade screwdriver to lift up the hose from the bottom while twisting the hose back and forth. It was more difficult to get the hose moving than describing the process. The chief problem at the first service is that the factory applied paint goes on after the hose and clamps are already in place. After the initial service, the hose is freed up from the paint, and the future services go much more smoothly.

    If I were to do a first service with my present knowledge, I'd have a new hose and two decent hose clamps in hand, just in case. I'd certainly changet he hose clamps, so they would be easier to handle later. Then I could comfortably be more aggressive with twisting and prying.

    I'd also remove the left rear tire, the rear PTO protection shield (2 bolts), and the steel plate under the PTO (4 bolts).

    If you have not seen a thread I started a while back, be careful when you remove the magnet(s) from the strainer. The magnet will be slippery, and it can break if dropped on a hard surface.
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    pmhgeneral's Avatar
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    Thanks guys I did finally get it off the top clamp was not bad but that bottom one was a bear to get but believe me I will get different clamps and next time will be easier, but what I found inside the trans I don’t think should be there is the screw in the photos, the screen and magnets were clean.


    JD 1023-E 2017 H-120 Loader, 54” AC MMD, Ballast Box, 47” JD Snowblower w/Quick Hitch & Remote Control Chute Flap, OT Cab w/Glass Windshield, Wiper, Heater, Armrest added, Front Led Lights, JD IMatch QH, Rear Hitch Receiver, Rear 3-pt Blade
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    I'd report that extra bolt you found to your dealer RIGHT AWAY. No telling where it came from or what it was attached to. At least it will be on your tractor's record, in case something goes wrong int he future due to that bolt. Document, document, document. Even if it was just bad workmanship when your transmission was assembled, that is not right.

    We had a recent post of a member finding a steel pin in his series 1 tranny when he changed his hyd fluid. I don't have that link handy right now, I'll look for it later.

    Just my 2 cents.
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    Tom

    2011 1026R/R4's -- H120 FEL/49" -- 260 BH/12" -- Bro-Tek Ripper -- Artillian Forks/42" -- 244 lbs JD Rear Wheel Weights -- KBOH Hooks and Clevis' --
    Block heater -- 180* T-stat -- Evans HP Waterless Coolant

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomfive View Post
    Great article a lot of info, a family member of mine is a service manager at my JD dealership gave him all the info last night and he looked into it said they saw it before it was a crate bolt he said if it was black in color powered coated then he would be concerned. This was just used to hold the case during assembly most likely he said. Also when he saw my one photo he said you took off the the rubber hose he said there is one bolt in the rear of the tractor near the upper hose clamp that holds the metal tube to the frame you can loose it and it gives you more room to work with.


    JD 1023-E 2017 H-120 Loader, 54” AC MMD, Ballast Box, 47” JD Snowblower w/Quick Hitch & Remote Control Chute Flap, OT Cab w/Glass Windshield, Wiper, Heater, Armrest added, Front Led Lights, JD IMatch QH, Rear Hitch Receiver, Rear 3-pt Blade
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    Tomfive's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmhgeneral View Post
    Great article a lot of info, a family member of mine is a service manager at my JD dealership gave him all the info last night and he looked into it said they saw it before it was a crate bolt he said if it was black in color powered coated then he would be concerned. This was just used to hold the case during assembly most likely he said. Also when he saw my one photo he said you took off the the rubber hose he said there is one bolt in the rear of the tractor near the upper hose clamp that holds the metal tube to the frame you can loose it and it gives you more room to work with.
    So did your family member/dealer service manager document your find? What if that crate bolt started its journey higher up in your transmission and slowly worked it way down chewing up gears and things in its path? (probably didn't happen due to it being rather pristine in your photos). But rather be safe than sorry in the future if something turns up.

    And he said that "they saw it before"!!! What is JD doing losing crate bolts in their transmissions during assembly??? So if a mechanic leaves some extra bolts and hardware in the oil pan after he worked on an engine I shouldn't be worried because they didn't fall off another part of the engine, the mechanic just happened to drop some extra bolts in there by accident? And maybe I should be happy that he didn't charge me extra for the extra bolts?

    I don't mean to rant or worry you, but to me, dropping stuff into a transmission during assembly is serious stuff. I hope your service manager wasn't too cavalier about this.

    Rant over, Just my 2 cents.
    Last edited by Tomfive; 09-10-2018 at 09:27 PM.
    Tom

    2011 1026R/R4's -- H120 FEL/49" -- 260 BH/12" -- Bro-Tek Ripper -- Artillian Forks/42" -- 244 lbs JD Rear Wheel Weights -- KBOH Hooks and Clevis' --
    Block heater -- 180* T-stat -- Evans HP Waterless Coolant

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    A couple of tips on getting the transmission's rubber hose removed:

    1) Before starting on the hose, and after you get the clamps off, I clean the metal tubing above and below the hose. Then I dip my finger in new hydraulic oil and spread it on the tubing above and below the hose. This way, once you get it moving, the lubrication will make it very easy to keep it moving. Make sure you don't get the oil on the hose itself. This will make it even harder to get a grip on it.

    2) It's very difficult to get a grip on the hose. It's all too tight to get your fingers in there, and my fingers aren't as strong as they once were. I was very successful using a rubber strap wrench. The strap is very thin, and you can easily work it behind and around the hose. After you tighten the strap, the rubber-to-rubber grip is great and the hose will move easily. You can get a lot of leverage with the handle on the strap wrench. The strap wrench left no marks or damage to the hose.

    The strap wrench in this picture is not the same as mine, but very similar. Search for "rubber strap wrench" on Amazon for lots of choices.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	strap wrench.JPG 
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ID:	647772

    Sorry I picked Kubota strap wrenches as examples.
    Last edited by keane; 09-10-2018 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Apology
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomfive View Post
    So did your family member/dealer service manager document your find? What if that crate bolt started its journey higher up in your transmission and slowly worked it way down chewing up gears and things in its path? (probably didn't happen due to it being rather pristine in your photos). But rather be safe than sorry in the future if something turns up.

    And he said that "they saw it before"!!! What is JD doing losing crate bolts in their transmissions during assembly??? So if a mechanic leaves some extra bolts and hardware in the oil pan after he worked on an engine I shouldn't be worried because they didn't fall off another part of the engine, the mechanic just happened to drop some extra bolts in there by accident? And maybe I should be happy that he didn't charge me extra for the extra bolts?

    I don't mean to rant or worry you, but to me, dropping stuff into a transmission during assembly is serious stuff. I hope your service manager wasn't too cavalier about this.

    Rant over, Just my 2 cents.
    No you’re right they, it’s all to easy for them just to write it off like you said and the answers that I and all would want from JD will probably never get a clear answer from. But yes I did have them document this for warranty purposes.


    JD 1023-E 2017 H-120 Loader, 54” AC MMD, Ballast Box, 47” JD Snowblower w/Quick Hitch & Remote Control Chute Flap, OT Cab w/Glass Windshield, Wiper, Heater, Armrest added, Front Led Lights, JD IMatch QH, Rear Hitch Receiver, Rear 3-pt Blade
    Interest: Woodworking-Tractors-Chris-Craft Boats.
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