1023e neutral switch keeps getting broken when pushing brush
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Thread: 1023e neutral switch keeps getting broken when pushing brush

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    CircleHTreeFarm's Avatar
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    1023e neutral switch keeps getting broken when pushing brush

    First, I am new to this site, so if I missed a thread that discusses this issue, please let me know and I will look at that thread.

    I searched for 1023e and 1025r neutral switch issues, and have found where people have had issues troubleshooting. This is not that. I know it is broken, and it is at the dealer getting that and a couple of other items fixed. (As I will explain, I use this in the woods.)

    I have a 2012 1023e with an H120 loader. I do not have a belly mower. I use this tractor out in my woods to push brush around. I have talked with the dealer, and they said that this is a reasonable activity for the tractor.

    My issue is that the neutral switch is in a vulnerable location on the front of the differential and has no protection. The switch is a metal plug with a plastic cap. What happens is that a stick will get pushed into that area and will pull the plug or the wires. If it broke the plug, that would be OK, because then I could just bypass it. But the real issue is that the plastic cap on the switch gets broken off. This, in turn, causes the plug to leak. By the time I get from the farm to my house, the bed of the trailer will have a puddle of hydraulic fluid 4 feet wide.

    This happened in February and now in October. I explained to the dealer that I cannot have this, as it basically leaves me sitting in the middle of my woods. Luckily, it was dry enough I could get my 1969 Massey Ferguson 1100 back there so I could pull the tractor out and put it on the trailer.

    My questions:
    • Am I the only person having this problem?

    • How can I protect this switch?

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    martincom's Avatar
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    I haven't heard of any one else. There are a number of real vulnerable areas under the 1-series. I have heard of at least two members that had their hydraulic filter sheered off at the case nipple---which is a part of the case casting.

    BroTek list skid plates for a 1026R, but when I checked about a year ago, he had yet to produce a prototype as he was experiencing trouble obtaining a 1-series to develop it upon. It sure sound like that is what you need. You may want to drop BroTek a note and let him know you are ready to order. I told him to put me down for two. Cheap insurance.
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CircleHTreeFarm View Post
    I have a 2012 1023e with an H120 loader. I do not have a belly mower. I use this tractor out in my woods to push brush around. I have talked with the dealer, and they said that this is a reasonable activity for the tractor.
    I am surprised (ok, maybe I am not) that the dealer is telling you this. The low ground clearance of the 1-series actually makes it not very suitable for rough ground woods work. Don't get me wrong, it is a very capable tractor and it has no problems doing woods "work". But, like a garden tractor, it is just not well suited for running over sticks and things.

    This happened in February and now in October. I explained to the dealer that I cannot have this, as it basically leaves me sitting in the middle of my woods. Luckily, it was dry enough I could get my 1969 Massey Ferguson 1100 back there so I could pull the tractor out and put it on the trailer.

    My questions:
    • Am I the only person having this problem?


    • How can I protect this switch?
    At 17" of ground clearance the old Massey is probably a much better woods machine (other than its size). I've not read many threads about the neutral switch in particular getting broken but there have been LOTS of threads from folks with 1-series (and other small tractors) getting various things on the under carriage damaged due to the low ground clearance when operating on rough ground.

    I cannot find any photos that show the 1023e neutral start switch location on the transmission housing. I'm sure there must be some way to fabricate some type of guard to protect it. But that will probably mean something else will just get broken. The only real way to protect the underside is with some kind of skid plate which is a bit more difficult to fabricate.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Maybe skid plates will help out? Bro-Tek
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMSDJ2 View Post
    Maybe skid plates will help out? Bro-Tek
    For the record... I tried to order skid plates for my 1026R (listed clearly on Brotek's website) but they emailed me and said that it is a mistake on their website, they do NOT make skid plates for the 1 Series. Typical... blame it on the computer guy... (But they did say they would keep my name on file in case they changed their minds... so go ahead and contact them...)
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    CircleHTreeFarm's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help!

    All; Thanks for the comments. They do help.

    @martincom and @EMSDL2, thanks for giving me the new contact.

    I placed a question and even called. I was able to talk with someone.
    He said he would see if they can create some for the 1023e. I am sure the 1 series will be similar across the series, so it should be fruitful.

    Thanks again all!

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    Please keep us updated if you should obtain skid plates.
    2017 1025R TLB & 2017 1025R FEL
    2*54 Mower Decks w/Independent Lift
    2*47 Snow Blowers
    2*Cozy Cab
    2*Heavy Hitch Receiver Hitch w/Dual Suitcase Weight Brackets, Storage Cart, & 1*Front Suitcase Weight Bracket
    50" Wicked Root Grapple
    Land Pride LR1560 Land Rake w/ wide gauge wheels & plow blade
    BXpanded Backhoe Dolly
    MCS20 Leaf/clippings hopper
    647 Tiller
    2001 455 AWS & 1999 455 AWS--Both Sold

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