I broke one of the cast metal holes that the Center Link of the 3 point hitch
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    Unhappy I broke one of the cast metal holes that the Center Link of the 3 point hitch

    I broke one of the cast metal holes that the Center Link of the 3 point hitch goes through. I am unable to find a part number and it looks like it is the entire top plate of the transmission under the seat. Looking for any and all recommendations. Thanks. 1025R tractor.
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    Fade2Blk's Avatar
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    How did that happen? Show a pic?
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    kevinecourter, We have seen this before on GTT. As Fade2Blk stated, a picture would be great to have.
    You may end up having to replace the whole case. Can it be welded?

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 0002994883____________A1.jpg  
    Last edited by Gizmo2; 10-17-2018 at 06:09 AM.
    Keith

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    Herminator's Avatar
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    Welcome to Intermission.

    2017 2038R, 400, 3020 & HPX and thingies to hook to the them.
    112 - Sold in July 2017 but took me until November to admit I just cast it out into this cruel world.
    #compactfarmer

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Herminator View Post
    That thread is concerning a 2-series tractor. Although the same principle may apply to the OP's 1-series. Have to first establish if the top cover is aluminum or cast iron.

    I sure do miss the older tractors as most of them had bolt-on top-link mounting brackets. So a repair is easy-peezy. A lot of other brands also use bolt-on top-link brackets but unfortunately JD keeps casting it as part of the top-cover. They do it this way clear up thru the 4-series.

    On a lot of tractors if you break the top-link mount you simply bolt on a new bracket similar to what is shown below. Then you go have the old one welded and keep it as a spare. :-)

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails TL_bracket.jpg  
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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Herminator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    That thread is concerning a 2-series tractor. Although the same principle may apply to the OP's 1-series. Have to first establish if the top cover is aluminum or cast iron.

    I sure do miss the older tractors as most of them had bolt-on top-link mounting brackets. So a repair is easy-peezy. A lot of other brands also use bolt-on top-link brackets but unfortunately JD keeps casting it as part of the top-cover. They do it this way clear up thru the 4-series.

    On a lot of tractors if you break the top-link mount you simply bolt on a new bracket similar to what is shown below. Then you go have the old one welded and keep it as a spare. :-)

    Agreed. I thought that one was pertinent because the whole material situation was discussed there as well. Looking at what it does, are any of them aluminum?
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    Welcome to Intermission.

    2017 2038R, 400, 3020 & HPX and thingies to hook to the them.
    112 - Sold in July 2017 but took me until November to admit I just cast it out into this cruel world.
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Herminator View Post
    Agreed. I thought that one was pertinent because the whole material situation was discussed there as well. Looking at what it does, are any of them aluminum?
    That's a good question. This is the first reported instance of a 1-series top-cover breaking that I can remember. Given that most of the transaxle housing is aluminum it wouldn't surprise me if they used an aluminum top cover. A quick check with a magnet should provide an answer.
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    Can I venture a guess this was trying to improperly attach a post hole digger? Or otherwise trying to raise an implement that was jammed crooked at the top? This is not a common part to break and usually requires gross mishandling and operator error. It's also a pretty dangerous failure since it requires thousands of pounds of force to snap it off. I broke one of the two top link clevis tabs on mine while I was learning the improper way to attach a pole hole digger. I was very lucky the tool box was between me and the tab, because it would have shot through my chest when it snapped off. It was a very eye opening lesson in how dangerous these machines can be if you're not careful.

    It is indeed cast iron, and it is indeed part of the rocker housing, and there is no way to replace just the clevis tab. You would need to disassemble and replace the entire rocker housing. Parts and labor on that would likely be numerous thousands of dollars.

    If you still have the broken piece, and it still lines up pretty good where it broke off, it can be welded back on. Caveat on this though, welding cast iron is very tricky. You need to find a welder that is very good at his job, and has lots of experience welding cast iron. It will take an hour or two of very slow careful welding to get it right. Chances are, the welder will tell you he did the best he could possibly do, but will never be as good as new and is what it is.

    I had mine welded back on. He said, and I quote, "how in the hell did you break that??" It cost me $150 for a welder to make a house call, instead of $3,000 in parts and labor to replace the rocker housing. Since then, I have used it with my post hole digger, back blade, and loaded heavy hitch. It has held up great. A post hole digger is probably the most stressful implement on the top link I know of, and it held. So I would suggest going this repair route first if you can.
    Last edited by Pedals2Paddles; 10-17-2018 at 09:30 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals2Paddles View Post
    It is indeed cast iron, and it is indeed part of the rocker housing, and there is no way to replace just the clevis tab. You would need to disassemble and replace the entire rocker housing. Parts and labor on that would likely be numerous thousands of dollars.
    Thank you for the clarification. Yes, the part is very expensive but as you mentioned the cost doesn't stop there. I'm sure there are various gaskets and bushings that would require replacement when the cover was swapped along with a boat load of labor. Like I said previous, I sure miss the bolt-on brackets. :-)

    Part Number: LVA21894
    Part Price: 945.71 USD
    On Hand: 0 Check Other Stores
    Description: Housing - HOUSING, R-SHAFT, ASSY, 55MM, R
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals2Paddles View Post
    I had mine welded back on. He said, and I quote, "how in the hell did you break that??" It cost me $150 for a welder to make a house call, instead of $3,000 in parts and labor to replace the rocker housing. Since then, I have used it with my post hole digger, back blade, and loaded heavy hitch. It has held up great. A post hole digger is probably the most stressful implement on the top link I know of, and it held. So I would suggest going this repair route first if you can.
    Judging by Tractor Time with Tim's videos, I would say a 3PH mounted stump grinder is a close second. The way that thing shook the entire tractor and actually slid it sideways couldn't help but put a lot of stress on the top-link and lower arms.
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