Do these lines look...off?
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    Pedals2Paddles's Avatar
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    This doesn't seem right? One of them is a fraction of inch from the drain plug. Looks like it's vibrated against it in the past.

    What are they for?

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    1025r | 60D | Forks | AV20F Grapple & 3rd SCV | 60" Box Blade | Danuser G20/40 Auger | Titan Pine Straw Rake | Kenny's hooks, springs, & diff lock pedal | LED Lighting Upgrades | HF Quick Hitch w/ extended top hook | Heavy Hitch weight bracket & toothbar | Custom loader snow plow


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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Yes, it looks like the line nearest the drain plug is bent slightly. The holding clamp has slipped off of the line on the left. If the right line is pushed over so that the left line is back in the clamp it will have better clearance on the drain plug.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails lines.jpg  
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    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Pedals2Paddles's Avatar
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    Is that line supposed to be under the oil pan at all?
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    1025r | 60D | Forks | AV20F Grapple & 3rd SCV | 60" Box Blade | Danuser G20/40 Auger | Titan Pine Straw Rake | Kenny's hooks, springs, & diff lock pedal | LED Lighting Upgrades | HF Quick Hitch w/ extended top hook | Heavy Hitch weight bracket & toothbar | Custom loader snow plow


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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals2Paddles View Post
    Is that line supposed to be under the oil pan at all?
    My guess is it is supposed to run along side of it but hopefully someone with a 1026R can confirm it.

    I found this image in the on-line Operator's Manual, it appears to show both of those lines running along side the oil pan.


    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1026R_pan.jpg  
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    I was under there yesterday changing the oil and it's very close to the drain plug, but on mine, the line nearly over the drain plug is rubber and the steel lines are down the left side (drivers side) of the oil pan. Here are some pictures.

    By the way, my wife just walked into the garage and she said "As sore as you back has been, why are you on the cement floor under your tractor and NOT WEARING WORK CLOTHES....? SO, I got in trouble for these photos....

    The things we do for other GTT members.......

    Looking forward to winter as it really cleans the underside of the engine with all the snow, it gets rid of any dust and dirt.





    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20181027_185006209.jpg   IMG_20181027_184828062.jpg   IMG_20181027_184918238.jpg  
    Last edited by SulleyBear; 10-27-2018 at 06:00 PM. Reason: added photo
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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals2Paddles View Post
    This doesn't seem right? One of them is a fraction of inch from the drain plug. Looks like it's vibrated against it in the past.

    What are they for?

    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	40 
Size:	3.22 MB 
ID:	654386

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Those lines seem quite "disorganized" compared to how the lines are intended to be routed. It seems as if they should be more parallel to one another and yours don't seem to be, plus the one line is very far from where it would have to be to be parallel with the other lines down the side of the oil pan and where the brackets mount. The best bet would be to look up the lines in the parts catalog and see if the lines or brackets are different.

    Just curious, whats the history of your tractor? I wonder why there is so much rust on the flywheel and on the driveshaft, etc. It even looks like the rubber line has rust on it. Just wondering if you have any idea why?

    Also, it looks like you are missing a protective boot around the base of your front drive shaft. Maybe the 1026r didn't use the boot around the base of the shaft where it connects to the front axle, but my tractor certainly has one, which is a large round piece of rubber hose which is held on with a large worm style clamp (like a hose clamp you can tighten)

    And NO, I am not going back out to take photos of the drive shaft boot......

    1025R with Mauser Cab
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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    According to the parts manual, the 1026r does use a front drive shaft boot.

    Boot - LVU20304

    Clamp - TY 22472

    Wonder why someone would have removed that shield?

    It protects the U Joint and keeps debris out of it. It is open on the back side and could let moisture and dirt in, but it shields the shaft well past the Universal joint........

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    Power steering and hydro cooler

    Two are for your power steering and I think the other two go to the hydraulic oil cooler near the radiator? I also have a 1026r. Previous owner cleared a wood lot with the tractor and my lines are all messed up as well. Guy must have hit stumps and such. He wore through a power steering flexible line. Even after the dealer replaced the line it was still rubbing. I had to fiddlefart around with it for a long while to keep all the lines from rubbing. These 3 cylinder yanmars sure do shake a lot. Anything touching will wear through fairly quickly id imangine.

    My fly wheel is just as rusty. I don't think it was painted or coated at all from the factory. Just bare steel. Really doesnt do anything. The teeth get cleaned everytime the starter is engaged.

    Anyway to OP try your best at keeping those lines apart as best you can. Try small tweaks here and there in the hard lines. Try not to bend tem too much at once. Good luck and post your progress.
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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    According to the 1026r parts manual, there are different oil cooler lines based upon the serial number of the tractor. In the parts illustration for tractors up to serial number 510500, the one line appears to be bent in a way which would make it difficult to run parallel to the other oil line. Here is the illustration of the line in the parts system........



    John Deere Parts Catalog

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    Pedals2Paddles's Avatar
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    My thanks to Mrs Bear for allowing you take these photos

    I don't know much history. I bought it used, so I am expecting to find a few things here and there that I need to fix. The rubber boot on the MFWD shaft is cut off. The base of it with a hose clamp is there. I suspect someone was too lazy to unscrew it for greasing. I noticed that yesterday while I was greasing it for the first time since I bought it.

    I'm guessing they changed from steel to rubber lines at some point after 2013?
    SulleyBear likes this.
    1025r | 60D | Forks | AV20F Grapple & 3rd SCV | 60" Box Blade | Danuser G20/40 Auger | Titan Pine Straw Rake | Kenny's hooks, springs, & diff lock pedal | LED Lighting Upgrades | HF Quick Hitch w/ extended top hook | Heavy Hitch weight bracket & toothbar | Custom loader snow plow


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