Thoughts on my 1 series filter housing bracket
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    1025RTLB's Avatar
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    Thoughts on my 1 series filter housing bracket

    You’re thoughts are welcomed...1/4 x 1 flat alum with a 1/8 flat as a stiff back. Bolted at rear into hinge support and bolted at front into core support its not welded yet so now is the time for change
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    jdforever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1025RTLB View Post
    You’re thoughts are welcomed...1/4 x 1 flat alum with a 1/8 flat as a stiff back. Bolted at rear into hinge support and bolted at front into core support its not welded yet so now is the time for change
    I can't tell by the pictures as to how difficult it might be to change the filters, otherwise I give it a
    It sure beats a possible broken valve cover. American ingenuity at work.
    Greg

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    1025RTLB's Avatar
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    Filter housing is in its OEM location. The bracket has a “kick” in it to jump over the removable section. So to answer your thoughts, its a pain as it was when new. Lpl
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    Looks pretty genius to me.
    I think if I copied it I would use aluminum angle stock and mill slots for the band clamps.
    Good thinking!
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    John Deere 1025R TLB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdforever View Post
    I can't tell by the pictures as to how difficult it might be to change the filters, otherwise I give it a
    It sure beats a possible broken valve cover. American ingenuity at work.
    That will be my fix. This is perfection. Very little cost.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    jdforever likes this.
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    jdforever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Deere 1025R TLB View Post
    That will be my fix. This is perfection. Very little cost.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    Just thought of this. Could you anchor the housing to your fabricated bracket using rubber straps instead of screw clamps? In that manner, it might make it a little easier to change the filters. Just brainstorming!
    Greg

    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional!

    2018 JD 1025R FEL /Mauser cab / 53" Bucket/Heavy hitch tooth bar / I-Match / Kenny's extended hook / JD ballast box / Loader mounted JD 54" snow plow/9" wings / Artillian 36" pallet fork set / Woods RTR48.30 tiller & LRS60 landscape rake / Howes 48" box blade /Heavy Hitch receiver/weight bracket / Heavy Hitch ripper/middle plow/subsoiler / Dual Alpena Hex Fire rear led lights / Bora 2" spacers / Land Pride CA1548 core aerator

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    1025RTLB's Avatar
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    Yes rubber straps would be an option... thinking through this certainly a better option so more vibrations are isolated. Now to find the right strap.
    jdforever likes this.

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    Cook's Avatar
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    I'd suspect a garden tractor rubber battery strap will work? I was unaware of this issue on the 1025r... what exactly happens?

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    I think your design looks real nice. One thing I suggest is to shorten the long “bar” and use some type durometer isolation mounts or pads were the bolts mount at both ends. I say this so the original tractor vibrations are not changed as much between the two structures.
    Last edited by genesusie; 11-27-2018 at 07:57 AM.

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    1025RTLB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cook View Post
    I'd suspect a garden tractor rubber battery strap will work? I was unaware of this issue on the 1025r... what exactly happens?
    Some of the years of the 1025R’s have an issue with the bracket for the air box breaking. If the bracket brakes no big deal Just a replacement of the bracket. The bracket is bolted to the top of the motor. In a catastrophic failure of the bracket the top of the motor will be broken and the material will fall into the motor... causing an extreme engine failure.
    jdforever likes this.

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