2305 needs work
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Thread: 2305 needs work

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    2305 needs work

    Recently purchased a 2305, needs some engine work. Does not seem to be pumping fuel up to injectors, had the line of one of the injectors off, cranked it over, nothing. Tried pumping the manuel pump on the side of the injector pump, could hear what sounded like fuel moving, but nothing at injector. Previous owner had fuel lines off to replace a soft plug, behind injector pump, then could not get started . Also, there is some coolant in oil, so either bad head gasket or cracked head, not sure. Drained all oil out and replaced with new, would at least like to see if it would run for a minute or two, to check for noises or smoke, before tearing down. I am told that it is rare to experience any of these problems with one of these, so I am looking for any advice? Thanks. Jim
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    dombougie's Avatar
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    How many hours on this unit? A set of rings and new gaskets for a used tractor purchase is failrly cheap. How’s the fuel pump? Did you check flow after the pump? Personally I would just do the rebuild, good thing about these diesels is there are few parts and it’s fairly quick and easy to do
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Welcome to GTT.
    These little Yanmar engines are generally pretty bulletproof is maintained well, do you know any history on this machine? The fuel issue could be the shut off solenoid, have you verified it has power to it?
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    If a diesel has compression, air and fuel at the correct time, it will run, maybe not so good but it will run.

    So, it sounds like you are not getting fuel at the injectors. This is most likely being caused by no fuel getting to the injection pump. As kennyd said, check that the fuel solenoid is opening. Also check the electric fuel pump.

    Once you get fuel, it should run, unless the prior owner screwed up when he had the injection pump off.
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    In addition to the fuel control solenoid that Kenny mentioned the tank outlet is easily restricted by debris. These 2305's have also been known to have diode issues that affect fuel solenoid operation. Both the restricted fuel flow and bad diode issues are easy fixes.

    Keep it simple. Check the easy things first before getting in too deep and



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    Last edited by Superglidesport; 12-07-2018 at 06:57 AM.
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    Quick test for the fuel solenoid is to remove it. It is only 2 bolts. When the solenoid is in your hand, it is easier to see if it is energized when the ignition is on and then when starting. There are 2 coils. With the ignition on, it won't pull itself in, but if you push it in, it will hold. If you hit the starter, it should pull in and then when you release the starter (with the ignition remaining on), it will hold. If either the pull or hold do not work, you need to chase diodes. Meanwhile, with the solenoid in your hand, the fuel is now turned on and if that was your issue, the pump should have fuel. That said, it doesn't prime too quickly. You mentioned a manual operation of the pump. I have to look at mine, I did not realize I could manually operate it!

    Get the manual! You will want to have it if you are starting with a non-working machine.

    Good luck,

    Lee
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    You said the previous owner replaced a soft plug behind the injection pump, he didn't pull the injection pump did he? If he did the pump might not be in time, just another thought, Dave.
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    pump timing

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveX730 View Post
    You said the previous owner replaced a soft plug behind the injection pump, he didn't pull the injection pump did he? If he did the pump might not be in time, just another thought, Dave.
    Dave, I believe he did have the pump off, he would have almost had to, to access the soft plug behind it, and there is fresh gasket sealent around the outside plate at the front of the pump, where you access the timing gear on the injection pump. I took the plate off, the timing marks on the gear on the pump, match the one on the gear inside. However, if when putting that gear on, I see it is possible to have those timing marks line up, and still be 180 degrees off, if the cam on the pump is not in the right position, or upside down. Anybody know how to make sure its in the right position? Or how to check the timing on these? Also on the coolant in the oil situation, we have decided to see what that problem is, so we have removed the head. Don't notice any cracks in the head or block, but head gasket is definatly suspect, we are going to replace head gasket, glow plugs, and possibly injectors since we have it apart, coolant might be fowling out injectors . We are determined to get this tractor going again, its a nice tractor.
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    With the head off now is the time to check.


    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

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    coolant in oil

    First of all, thank you to everyone for the great advice and suggestions!! Got this tractor put back together finally, got the injector pump timed correctly, it did start, but run really rough, which I am not as concerned about as the fact we are still getting coolant in the oil, when we got it started, it actually was pushing coolant out the overflow tube on the radiator,and, we have coolant in the oil, again. When we had the head off, we carefully examined the head, did not see any cracks or suspect areas at all, we did replace the head gasket, which apparently was not the issue. How can we still be getting coolant in the oil, could the head be warped?? It didn't appear to be. Is it possible a piston is cracked, they looked good also though. Somehow, coolant I think could be fowling out one of the cylinders, then getting in to the oil?? A new head for this motor is about $1200, I wouldn't be totally opposed to spending that, just not sure if that is the problem. Any ideas or advice on this one? Getting in deep. Jim

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