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Thread: 1025R mowing with filled tires and wheel weights

  1. Top | #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by PJR832 View Post
    First off, if your dealer is telling you that loaded rears are all you'll need well, he shouldn't be selling tractors.
    If you are buying the tractor at a JD tractor dealer,, possibly the salesman sells ten 5 Series for one 1 Series sold.

    I priced a large tractor from the local JD dealer, just before I got the 4105.
    The salesman said they automatically load the rear tires if a loader is ordered.
    There was no mention of cost, free, charged, etc,, they just rolled fluid into the price.

    I have never,, in 20 years, used ballast on the 3 point hitch on my IH 584,,,the tractor is 40 years old, and it works just fine.



    If there is something back there it is by coincidence,, not by plan.

    What would the 584 carry back there in scale to adding weight to a 1 Series?

    The 584 weighs 10,000 pounds,,so, would I need three tons?...

    What I am saying is the salesman sells a big tractor, rear ballast is never discussed,,,
    The smaller machine, which he sells few of,, needs special options,,
    Some of the tractors include JD 4105, JD 855, JD 650,,,, and,,, the IH 584 4WD
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  3. Top | #32
    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CADplans View Post
    I have never,, in 20 years, used ballast on the 3 point hitch on my IH 584,,,the tractor is 40 years old, and it works just fine.
    I'll probably take some heat for this but here goes... there is a difference between a "real" tractor made of iron and these modern day aluminum/plastic garden tractors on steroids. As you state, even within the JD line-up when you get to a certain size there isn't much mention of 3PH ballast. My 2-series isn't much different. Gotta keep things balanced so nothing breaks. :-)
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  4. Top | #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by CADplans View Post
    If you are buying the tractor at a JD tractor dealer,, possibly the salesman sells ten 5 Series for one 1 Series sold.

    I'm going to disagree for two reasons, and maybe it's a regional thing though doubtful, and maybe it's just my dealer chain but that is also doubtful.

    1. My dealer has salesmen for residential units and salesmen for AG units.

    2. I don't know the exact numbers but I know they definitely sell more 1-3 series tractors compared to the larger AG tractors.
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  6. Top | #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJR832 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by CADplans View Post
    If you are buying the tractor at a JD tractor dealer,, possibly the salesman sells ten 5 Series for one 1 Series sold.

    I'm going to disagree for two reasons, and maybe it's a regional thing though doubtful, and maybe it's just my dealer chain but that is also doubtful.

    1. My dealer has salesmen for residential units and salesmen for AG units.

    2. I don't know the exact numbers but I know they definitely sell more 1-3 series tractors compared to the larger AG tractors.
    Yes my Salesman only sells landscape equipment. Different sales guys sell the big stuff and he said anything over a 4 series is not his game.

    They did not charge me to fill the tires it was part of the price when buying the loader option.

    I mowed the other day it was quite wet and I did not have any issues with ruts or bad cut. Mowed another section tonight that is very flat same nice cut no issues.

    I think I will leave it as is and just approach the hills and slope slowly while I learn the machine a little more.
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    I mow with loaded tires and 2 sets of wheel weights on my 1026r. I donít remove the wheel weights for mowing as I havenít noticed any more damage with them on. My lot is hilly, the tractor feels more stable with the wheel weights on. 200 lbs isnít going to make much difference. A small operator could weigh a 100 pounds or less. A heavy operator could go 300 plus pounds. Just saying I donít think wheel weights make a lot of difference for mowing.
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    Eric

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    I don't have filled tires, but I have a set of 70lb starter weights & 2 sets of 55lb cast weights on the rear of my 1025R. I have a rough, hilly yard & I think the extra weight down low on the axle adds stability. The pucker factor when mowing my ditches isn't quite as high since adding the weights, but there are still areas I used to mow with my 318 I'm not comfortable mowing with the 1025R. I got my tractor late last August so I haven't mowed a lot with it & I usually alternate direction, but I haven't really noticed any bad ruts. As I said though, my yard is generally a rough farm yard so I suppose it's possible that I'm adding to the roughness with ruts I'm just not seeing. I already had the weights & I always had one or two sets of the 55lb wheel weights on my 316 & 318 lawn tractor when mowing so it seemed natural to put them on when I upgraded since they also work in conjunction with rear ballast for loader work.

    Slightly off topic, but I'm also seriously considering a set of wheel spacers to further increase stability. The center of gravity is definitely higher when mowing than with my old 318.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emeribd View Post
    I don't have filled tires, but I have a set of 70lb starter weights & 2 sets of 55lb cast weights on the rear of my 1025R. I have a rough, hilly yard & I think the extra weight down low on the axle adds stability. The pucker factor when mowing my ditches isn't quite as high since adding the weights, but there are still areas I used to mow with my 318 I'm not comfortable mowing with the 1025R. I got my tractor late last August so I haven't mowed a lot with it & I usually alternate direction, but I haven't really noticed any bad ruts. As I said though, my yard is generally a rough farm yard so I suppose it's possible that I'm adding to the roughness with ruts I'm just not seeing. I already had the weights & I always had one or two sets of the 55lb wheel weights on my 316 & 318 lawn tractor when mowing so it seemed natural to put them on when I upgraded since they also work in conjunction with rear ballast for loader work.

    Slightly off topic, but I'm also seriously considering a set of wheel spacers to further increase stability. The center of gravity is definitely higher when mowing than with my old 318.
    Iím not sure that wheel spacers will work with the mmm. The rear tire is pretty close to the gauge wheels on my 1026 / 60Ē deck.
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    Eric

    2011 1026R / H120 / 60D auto-connect, independent-lift mmm / 54" snowblower / 4' KK Pro rotary mower / KK 4' tiller

  10. Top | #38
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    I had loaded tires (also calcium chloride) and wheel weights on my 2305 which is basically an earlier version of the 1 series.

    I bought the tractor in Montana. Likely your dealer used calcium chloride for the same reasons - the winter temperatures.

    I did not have a loader on my tractor. The weight was for traction & stability. I used it more for plowing and blowing snow than mowing grass. At least in Montana. When we moved to Tennessee, no snow. I mowed a lot of grass.

    Back to mowing - unless it was wet, I never noticed any problems. One thing I did notice when it was wet, I didn't spin, I just left a rut. If it was too wet, I just didn't mow.

    I did have to add ballast to the rear when using the snowblower and to the front when using the rear mount finish mower. I used the suitcase weights.

    I tried removing the rear wheel weights once we moved to TN. I noticed a few spots where I started to loose traction. I put the weights back on.

    FWIW, the weights I used were the 50 pounders.


    I think the weights are worth it, especially if you have slopes.

    Read your manual and get the right rear ballast for using your loader. The tractor is tippier with a loader on and the proper combination of rear ballast is there to keep your rear wheels firmly planted which is what keeps the shinny side up.
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  11. Top | #39
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    Weights

    My 1025 sspun tires non stop until i Loaded the rears with RIM Guard. Its a natural Beet Juice and non toxic. no spinning since. I also added rear wheel weights with no adverse problems
    1025r with FEL, BACKHOE, 54" Snow Blower, 647 Tiller, 60" MMM,
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejb69 View Post
    Iím not sure that wheel spacers will work with the mmm. The rear tire is pretty close to the gauge wheels on my 1026 / 60Ē deck.
    I've read several differing opinions stating that anything from 1.25" all the way up to 2" spacers should or might work with the 60D MMM. I intend to do some measuring to see how much room I have between the rear tires & rear gauge wheels with the deck up & down before spending any money. There are some other things I also want to do/get so it will come down to what I decide my priorities are & when to loosen up my wallet.
    2018 1025R FILB (120R, 260B), 60D MMM w/ Load-N-Go, Auto connect, Premium LED light kit & guards, Block heater, Ken's bolt on hooks, seat springs, & diff lock pedal, Heavy Hitch Toothbar, Edge Tamers & Extenders, Gremlins?

    1990 318, Homemade 3pt hitch, 54 Blade w/ homemade scoop, 30 Hydraulic tiller w/ homemade 3pt mount, Homemade weight brackets

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