Hydraulic Line Extension with Mauser Cab
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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Hydraulic Line Extension with Mauser Cab

    The very first picture and the last picture shown are the connections BEFORE the extensions. The other pictures are with the new hose extensions. Why the pictures posted in this order, I have no idea. I tried to get the "old pictures" together at the end of the posting, but that's not how they posted. The pictures with the lines covered with the protective covering at the connection point are the pictures BEFORE the line extensions. The pictures which show the lines plugged in without the protective covering are the new extension lines.

    I have struggled with the hydraulic connections on the 1 series 1025r with the Mauser Cab installed. The cab hangs over the hydraulic point connection by several inches and makes the access much more challenging than without the cab.

    The connections were difficult to make due to the restricted access, especially to the upper and inner connection points. I made 4 hydraulic line extensions, a total of 12" long, including the length of the fittings. I used straight fittings on the quick connects and I specifically wanted the lines to be long enough to reach above the loader frame support, so they could rest upon the top of the loader frame and be kept high above the ground and out of the way.

    The loader fittings which came on the tractor were slightly angled, supposedly to make connecting the lines easier. I never cared for how this left the hoses at odd angles as they left the hydraulic connectors and the hoses would almost bind at various angles, which seemed to put pressure on the fittings which wasn't necessary or helpful. I also felt it made the connections look disorganized with lines angled in various directions.

    Now that the connections to the tractor mounted female fittings are straight, everything seems to fit better and are even more organized, instead of hoses at various angles coming off the connection point. The angled fittings on the FEL lines worked out well for connecting as it keeps the lines at a good angle for securing to the chrome ring on the engine.

    I have some of the material from Kenny for protecting the lines, which I will place on top of the loader frame member, to protect the lines from vibrating on top of the frame member and damaging the paint or scuffing the connections on the frame member.

    Several lines I have seen when the cabs are installed, result in the hydraulic lines either extending out to the side of the tractor in a looped fashion, where I would be concerned about the lines getting snagged on something. Same thing with the lines hanging down beneath the floorboard or coiled beneath the loader frame member. When running the tractor in tall grass for rear 3 point mowing with the Frontier RC2048 rear mower, I didn't want the lines where they could be caught on anything or cause any issues.

    Connecting the extensions as I did in this manner, the lines are all above the access points. Keeping the extension total length to 12", including the quick connect couplings, worked out very well. Any excess line could become a snagging point where the lines could be grabbed by weeds, grass, sticks, etc. The additional length made the connection of the FEL to the tractor even easier with more line to work with.

    It makes the loader and other front implements very easy to connect while standing next to the tractor, verses having to be connected from underneath the machine lying on the ground, due to the cab floor extension obstructing the factory quick connect point. I added color coded zip ties to the hoses of each extension to match the line cap colors, for easy identification.

    I thought about making a plate to hold the line extensions and securing them to the loader frame member. It turns out, the lines worked fine just left loose. I used the chrome hydraulic support ring on the side of the engine block to secure the lines to with plastic zip ties, after gathering the lines once connected to the extensions with zip ties.

    I also used one zip tie to secure the lines back to the loader stand, just so the lines and their covering don't rub on the hood side panels. I will cut this one zip tie loose when taking the loader on and off as well as the one plastic zip tie which secures the lines to the chrome line support ring.

    The end result is all of the hydraulic lines tucked up out of the way and very easy connections when adding or removing the FEL. I plan to leave the new line extensions on for use with all hydraulic connections. They sure make the job or hooking and unhooking lines much, much easier.

    The total cost of the 4 lines and 1/4" hydraulic quick connect fittings was right at $120..........money well spent. I was able to connect and disconnect the lines with ease, standing next to the tractor and not lying on the ground, for the first time since owning this machine. That's a very welcome improvement.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20180506_195626978.jpg   IMG_20190421_161559410.jpg   IMG_20190421_161611919.jpg   IMG_20190421_161622927.jpg   IMG_20190421_161630901.jpg  

    IMG_20180506_195621385.jpg  
    ChrisR, bigbear, jdforever and 4 others like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Nice. I have been making a few sets of these and selling them to guys too, still trying to decided on a length, your 12" looks good
    Kenny

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    Nice. I have been making a few sets of these and selling them to guys too, still trying to decided on a length, your 12" looks good
    Kenny,

    I felt any shorter and I would be back down to where it's harder to connect to lines again, working between the loader frame and the cab. Plus, when unconnected from the FEL or Quick hitch angle and lift cylinder lines, I don't want the extensions to dangle beneath the loader frame arm.

    Longer than that really didn't seem necessary, plus it makes the OEM lines on the loader curl up and I don't want them above the hood height, above the loader stand height or seeing them in the sight line.

    Definitely straight fittings, and nothing angled on the extensions seems to work the best for me, the angled fittings on the loader lines which came on the machine worked well to get the overall angle, etc. I was seeking for the lines when plugged into the new extensions.

    I thought about making a block through which to mount and organize them, much like the one used on the tractor itself. I was going to use stainless band clamps to secure it to the perimeter of the loader frame section. I still may do that, just to provide a very stable connection point and it would also eliminate any concerns about vibration, rubbing, etc. In the meantime, I am going to use the hose protection material which I bought from you last year, to put between the lines and loader frame, just to prevent any rubbing or vibration points.

    The thought was also for an aluminum block with the 4 holes next to one another horizontally, instead of in a stacked design like the mount in use on the tractors. I think the horizontal block would be easier to secure to the frame verses a square style mounting point, like the one used because not having vertical height in the bracket would make it more stable and easier to keep in position. The factory square bracket uses a bracket off to the side to bolt through the operator platform.

    The other thought I had was to use the Deere factory part and since it is a square design, instead of mounting it with the bracket off to the side as shown in the illustration, mount it with the support bracket under the hoses, using something which could be secured to the loader frame with a band style clamp. I think trying to drill and tap the loader frame member would be more than most would want to undertake for such a simple enhancement to their tractor.

    I am sure you would have ideas on how to mount the hose support bar.

    Deere gets $42 for the "support", which is part number LVU31049, which is shown as item number 16 in the screen shot. Having the snap rings to hold the female couplings in place firmly in the bracket would be nice as well.

    There was recently a GTT member asking about being able to connect and disconnect these hydraulic lines with using one hand. Due to a disability, he has one hand to use for such tasks. If the hose extensions were on the tractor and secured to the mounting block on the loader frame, then I think he would be able to make the connection and disconnection much easier with the one hand. Otherwise, its much trickier when the connections are down low and under the operator platform.

    Time will tell if there is a need for a mounting system for the extensions. I worked the tractor yesterday moving 10 yards of top soil and them box bladed the material and the hoses worked great and nothing moved. I also plan to use the good hydraulic coupling seals which I purchased from you last year when these extensions clean and protected when they are not in use. The OEM covers are a joke and fall off too easily and are always dangling and in the way.

    I can almost see the line extensions and a mounting block being a kit which could be marketed for cab tractors just to make the line connection so much easier. Those who have dealt with connecting the lines with the cab on the machine seem to be in agreement that extensions make the process much easier, as it was intended to be without the cab.


    jdforever, kylew and Toughsox like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
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    That is a great idea. The extensions would also be helpful on the small none cab compact tractors.
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    SulleyBear, you took the words right out of my mouth.

    My extensions are in the mail as I type this. When my diverter kit was installed my dealer moved the mounting bracket forward to keep it away form the cab. Consequently, two of the hoses were so short that if loader was not parked at the lowest possible point or the tractor wasn’t perfectly even against the loader I had a real struggle on my hands.

    I got 2 12” hoses and 2 16” hoses to allow for the shorter hoses. I intend to leave mine on top the loader mount just like yours. John Deere or Mauser really should have considered this as part of the cab mounting kit or did something else to solve the problem. Customers shouldn’t have to be design engineers.
    jdforever and SulleyBear like this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sportshot2 View Post
    ....Customers shouldn’t have to be design engineers.
    Unfortunately the only engineering involvement in things like these days is to pass the product and materials specs off to them to make sure the “product designer” liability is clear from a material capacity standpoint-engineers no longer design these types of things nor do any of the “developers” that do ever use the things they design....
    SulleyBear likes this.
    2004-L130

    2013-2032r, Curtis Hard side cab (project), H130 FEL & 61"bucket, Artillian Modular Grapple on HD frame with Diverter, 2300# Artillian frame w/ 36" x 3" tines, 46BH 9" & 13" bucket, Frontier RB1060, HLA 1000 series 60" JDQA Snow plow, JD ballast box, RK QH, Homemade 3pt multi purpose hitch, 117W of extra LED lights on ROPS and side Brush guards, Ken's bolt on hooks-3x, Ideal Knife grooved R-4's.

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by balrog006 View Post
    Unfortunately the only engineering involvement in things like these days is to pass the product and materials specs off to them to make sure the “product designer” liability is clear from a material capacity standpoint-engineers no longer design these types of things nor do any of the “developers” that do ever use the things they design....
    The older I get, the more of this I see where it seems obvious the people who design stuff have often never used it. Often, the most annoying issues exist which could be so easily prevented if the item was actually used as intended.

    A friend and neighbor who works at a large appliance maker recently took a new position in the engineering department to work on resolving the "issues" with just such things as described here, simply annoyances where the appliance engineer failed to really use the item they designed. He showed me on a $3,000 refrigerator where they deleted a drain hose system for the "self defrosting" side of the freezer. The new engineers came up with a "system" where the water from the defrosting process would drain down to an open topped pan situated directly above the compressor motor. Their theory was the heat from the motor would evaporate the water and reduce the need for parts which costs all of about $7.

    He said the excess moisture under the bottom of the refrigerator would cause water to run out on the floor and it also caused the insulation in the unit to remain wet and stink like mold......all to save $7 worth of the parts. Not to mention there are issues with electrical contacts getting corrosion from the excess moisture.

    He also said the percentage of machines which need repairs or service work during the warranty period was over 30%.........as a result of "saving the $7"......what do you think the service calls and customer dissatisfaction costs amount to? I guarantee it's far more than the $7.

    He had a "engineering term" for the need for repair or service within the warranty period and he said in the auto industry, that number is down extremely low, it might be under 3% if memory serves me. In the appliance industry, it was more than 10 times that of the auto industry, for this "required repair" rate. His point was if the auto industry can achieve that reliability, no reason the appliance industry can't, which sure seems logical.

    The other very annoying attitude is that people aren't replacing their appliances often enough so that's one of the reasons why quality has suffered, to encourage product replacement. The designed "replacement period" is 7 years or less, according to what he was saying. The days of your refrigerator and other appliances lasting until their color comes back in style are long gone. I told him if I had a failure in an appliance and it needed replacement within 7 to 10 years, the brand which would replace it wouldn't be from the same company that failed............so if their goal was to increase sales of their competition, their strategy would work to perfection........
    jdforever and 9MMMAC like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    ....
    The other very annoying attitude is that people aren't replacing their appliances often enough so that's one of the reasons why quality has suffered, to encourage product replacement. The designed "replacement period" is 7 years or less, according to what he was saying. The days of your refrigerator and other appliances lasting until their color comes back in style are long gone. I told him if I had a failure in an appliance and it needed replacement within 7 to 10 years, the brand which would replace it wouldn't be from the same company that failed............so if their goal was to increase sales of their competition, their strategy would work to perfection........
    The only issue with this theory is that that company manufactures a vast majority of the brand names you and I know within the market. Deciding to leave them on the whole means choosing a brands from Korea and China (Samsung, Electrolux, etc.) or the German lines (Bosch, F&P, etc.). They all have their issues as well and overall I still will stick with the American, and very local to us mothership brand-at least Admin, R&D, engineering and some manufacturing and assembly still remain here with them and they employ a ton of locals and contribute to the community.
    2004-L130

    2013-2032r, Curtis Hard side cab (project), H130 FEL & 61"bucket, Artillian Modular Grapple on HD frame with Diverter, 2300# Artillian frame w/ 36" x 3" tines, 46BH 9" & 13" bucket, Frontier RB1060, HLA 1000 series 60" JDQA Snow plow, JD ballast box, RK QH, Homemade 3pt multi purpose hitch, 117W of extra LED lights on ROPS and side Brush guards, Ken's bolt on hooks-3x, Ideal Knife grooved R-4's.

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by balrog006 View Post
    The only issue with this theory is that that company manufactures a vast majority of the brand names you and I know within the market. Deciding to leave them on the whole means choosing a brands from Korea and China (Samsung, Electrolux, etc.) or the German lines (Bosch, F&P, etc.). They all have their issues as well and overall I still will stick with the American, and very local to us mothership brand-at least Admin, R&D, engineering and some manufacturing and assembly still remain here with them and they employ a ton of locals and contribute to the community.
    We buy Fisher Paykel appliances from New Zealand and have been extremely pleased and have had no issues................

    Kitchen Paykel US
    bigbear likes this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
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    bigbear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    We buy Fisher Paykel appliances from New Zealand and have been extremely pleased and have had no issues................

    Kitchen Paykel US
    We bought a clothes washer and dryer of this brand. We walked into a Sears scratch and dent store and they had these new in the box. I have had to replace the pump on the washer because the rubber seal on the bottom rotted out from the chlorine in our city water. Was super easy to replace. Then the fins on the washer drum broke off. Took 5 mins to change that out. And ordered parts right from Fisher Paykel, parts came out of California.
    SulleyBear likes this.
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