1025r 4 pin trailer connector?
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Thread: 1025r 4 pin trailer connector?

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    1025r 4 pin trailer connector?

    retired dairy farmer here , Live in small town now on 1/2 acre .Ive been missing my tractor so I bought a 2019 1025r with box blade,54" deck,54" front snowblower and 3 bag collection system.Its overkill for my small property but I look after our church property and kids properties too. Anyway my question is have anyone here added a 4-pin trailer connection on their tractor so they can tow a trailer with lights ?
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hslager69 View Post
    retired dairy farmer here , Live in small town now on 1/2 acre .Ive been missing my tractor so I bought a 2019 1025r with box blade,54" deck,54" front snowblower and 3 bag collection system.Its overkill for my small property but I look after our church property and kids properties too. Anyway my question is have anyone here added a 4-pin trailer connection on their tractor so they can tow a trailer with lights ?
    I have not but welcome to GTT.
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    Keith

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    Wayne

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    johnH123's Avatar
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    I used this kit on my truck to add a 4 way;
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reese-48-in...ector/50437660

    You just find the correct wires and quick-splice this on there. Takes 10 minutes.
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    - 2002 John Deere 4510 TLB PR,
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    - Farm Star rear bale spear

    Yamaha Rhino 700, Yamaha Rhino 660,
    Murray 624 mower/38" deck

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    martincom's Avatar
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    I would strongly recommend against utilizing the "quick-splice", aka: scotchlock connectors. They are problematic. First, they often sheer strands of the wire, weakening them both physically and electrically. Second, they are not weatherproof. They will allow moisture and other moisture carried contaminants (i.e., road salt) into the wire jacket. This will corrode the wire which, in turn, can create hot spots and cause the wire to go open.

    If you want to have all the functionality of the four pin trailer connector (tail, stop and turn) you'll need splice into the wiring harness conductors. I would suggest doing so in the ROPS taillight harnesses, above where their bullet connectors connect to the main harness, to the left and right sides of the rear PTO. They are relatively easy to repair/replace whereas the main harness is not.

    Below is the wiring diagram for the tailights. This was from a 2017 manual. There were changes to the 2018 models wiring, but none that should have impacted tailight wiring. However, the number designators could have possibly changed.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    I would strongly recommend against utilizing the "quick-splice", aka: scotchlock connectors. They are problematic.
    I concur with the above. Do it once, do it right.
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    Glen

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    The wiring is really simple, especially thanks to Martin and the wiring diagram. Make sure your plug for the tractor has a cover as with all of the metal in the rear where the plug will be located you don't want the plug grounding out and blowing fuses. Plus, it will keep it nice and clean.





    I used to have a retractable cord system we used for many of the trailer wiring connectors so it was more like a telephone cord (remember those.....I am sure you do....) just so it was easy to keep the cord handy and not have to coil it up and zip tie it when not in use so the extra cord doesn't get caught up in the PTO, run over, etc. Or you could keep the actual plug wire short on the tractor and have an extension plug you put between the plug on your tractor and the trailer you are towing so when it's not in use, you can coil up the extension and keep it in the toolbox so its out of your way.


    Also, keep in mind that you will likely want to use a 3 point hitch mount for the ball mount for towing and not put a ball on the tow plate on the tractor itself. You need the hitch point back from the tractor more than provided by the hitch plate on the 1 series. Otherwise, you end up with the trailer tongue up against the rear tires or just too short for ideal handling.

    Depending upon your primary trailer to be towed and it's tongue height, you may want the receiver sleeve mounted up high on the 3 point frame so you can use a drop ball mount to pull the trailer level and not have to have your 3 point arms fully raised to get you the height for level trailer towing. Take a few measurements of your trailers tongue height at level towing and it will help you determine the best placement for the receiver sleeve on the 3 point hitch unit, whether it's a Heavy Hitch item or something else.

    Welcome to GTT and make sure to share pictures of your project with us in the thread. We are glad you are here on GTT with us.........

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    If the 3point floats you do not want to mount a trailer to it for road running.

    Does the tractor have brake and turn lights? If not I would just get a rear strobe or flashing light.

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    Scotch locks are the devil. Just sayin.
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    Quote Originally Posted by rydplrs View Post
    If the 3point floats you do not want to mount a trailer to it for road running.

    Does the tractor have brake and turn lights? If not I would just get a rear strobe or flashing light.


    Yes tractor has brake and turn signals
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