Has anyone used their 1025r and Box Blade for Crushed Aggregate?
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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Has anyone used their 1025r and Box Blade for Crushed Aggregate?

    I have a potential project which would require me to spread about 120 yards of crushed aggregate. Effectively, I would be building a walking path over about a 900 foot area, which would be about 6' wide. I have spread top soil and box bladed it quite successfully even cutting a taper into a lawn area to change the drainage. But I am wondering if anyone has spread or dealt with large amounts of crushed aggregate or crushed asphalt with the 1 series, between the FEL and the box blade.

    I don't have any reason to doubt the machine can handle it, just curious if anyone has actually dealt with larger scale moving and positioning of the crushed concrete with the 1 series. It looks like I will have to have the aggregate dumped right off the pavement and I will have to move it with the FEL. I will deposit bucket piles every 6 or 8' and then use the box blade to spread them. I did find that I am much better at box blading forward than I am when trying to push the piles with the rear of the box blade, or at least that was the case with the 13 yards of top soil I just spread.

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    johnH123's Avatar
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    how big is this box blade? its gonna take some time, even with a big blade. I owuld start by spreading the gravel with the bucket, and then grade it and smooth it with the box blade.
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    It seems to me that the key to successful box blading is material flow. Is the crushed aggregate cohesive, and how big are the chunks? Does it flow with minimal shear, or is it a tangled mess? I don't have any experience with it, but that is my first thought.
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    Jonathan

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnH123 View Post
    how big is this box blade? its gonna take some time, even with a big blade. I owuld start by spreading the gravel with the bucket, and then grade it and smooth it with the box blade.
    It's the 48" box blade from Frontier. I plan to drop the aggregate and spread it with the bucket as much as realistic and hopefully, start right at the pile so as I am driving back and forth from the dump pile location, I am compacting the aggregate I just spread. Originally, the plan was to have the dump truck drop the piles in 10 yard loads by starting with the top of the hill, which is 450 feet from the pavement, but with the ground wet, I don't think the dump truck can get off the pavement without creating a huge mess for me to repair and deal with.

    The 1 series doesn't have a ton of ground clearance and it doesn't like driving through dump truck tire ruts, that's for sure........So I will have him dump, I will spread and by time he can return with the next load, I should be largely waiting for him........Obviously, as I reach the other end, its going to be more time consuming going back and forth, but hopefully, it just makes the path more compact and smooth it out. It's a narrow area to work in and through trees, down a hill, etc. so larger equipment would be handicapped in some respects.

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    Quote Originally Posted by marlinguidegun View Post
    It seems to me that the key to successful box blading is material flow. Is the crushed aggregate cohesive, and how big are the chunks? Does it flow with minimal shear, or is it a tangled mess? I don't have any experience with it, but that is my first thought.
    It's crushed pretty fine, I would say 3/4" to 1" seems to be most of the stone. I have never box bladed this specific material but I have with just general gravel and it went pretty well.....

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    Is it possible to have the truck driver tailgate it? We have had Tri axle drivers even tailgate crushed limestone backing up.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    It's crushed pretty fine, I would say 3/4" to 1" seems to be most of the stone. I have never box bladed this specific material but I have with just general gravel and it went pretty well.....
    i'd say you'll be fine. I would take a scoop out of the pile and dump it out in front of you as you drive along so that it doesn't make a mud mess. The box blade will smooth and grade that just fine.
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnH123 View Post
    i'd say you'll be fine. I would take a scoop out of the pile and dump it out in front of you as you drive along so that it doesn't make a mud mess. The box blade will smooth and grade that just fine.
    I agree, my driveway is 1"- crusher run, my box blade did a great job on that. Last year I worked it all loose and smoothed it back out, to this day my neighbor still thinks I had spread a fresh load out. I am redoing it with limestone crusher run, 3/4"- in a few weeks, the box blade is exactly the right tool for a job like you have.
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    I'm almost through spreading 50 tons of #57 (3/4" to 1") crushed gravel with the 1025r bucket and box blade. I made sure to take my time and not get in a hurry. Started out with the FEL and then went over it with the blade. I had it angled higher in the front and used it going forward (pulling). I don't like to use it backwards because of the pressure it puts on the lift arms, etc.
    Last edited by Dr Kubar; 05-08-2019 at 02:56 PM.
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    In short, as others have said, the tractor will handle the job fine grading and finishing. You will use the front bucket as much as the back. I have pulled my 5' box blade with my 1025r in gravel, and it did fine.

    If you can't find a material cart or some other machine to rent to transport the gravel in larger volumes per run(that won't sink), then be sure and use your ballast box, loaded heavy, when carrying the gravel to the pathway. Crushed aggregate is much heavier by volume than any dirt by comparison.

    If you do have the dump trucks drive in further, have them dump in one spot, approx. halfway in the project, and do so without turning around, or steering at all. When they start steering is when things go awry. Be mindful of utilities, and septic systems, this stuff won't be located on the customer's side, it will be up to them and you to know where things are.

    If the gravel won't hold still while grading, water it then grade it, or find, rent, or make some kind smooth roller drum compactor to pull with your tractor. This will make the gravel lay down and hold still, it will look completely different after rolling it and will grade different. Wacker makes small gas powered ride on drum rollers that you can rent, I would get one of those.

    About the numbers:

    One way we bid it roughly is: A 14 ton 10 wheeler load of 1.5" crusher run gated out will do 75 linear feet, 4" thick, nominal width of the truck.

    When bidding pads or bigger stuff, most crushers will tell you 3000 lbs. per cubic yard, on all of their materials, irregardless of size. Thru experience and many jobs, we use 3500 lbs. per cubic yard, and get really close on our volumes. This really matters when you are doing 2000 loads and the aggregate costs $95/load for just the material.

    Most dirt is 2200-2800 lbs. per cubic yard. When I leave the crusher loaded, my bed is only 3/4 full of gravel. Remember what I said about using your ballast box?

    Good luck.
    bob, rtgt, jdforever and 9 others like this.

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