1025r with Mauser cab Center of gravity question
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Thread: 1025r with Mauser cab Center of gravity question

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    1025r with Mauser cab Center of gravity question

    I have read with great interest everything that Levi has endured with operating on the slope on his property. He must have nine lives because I probably would have had a heart attack if my tractor did a 180 if I was going down hill. Filled tires, wheel weights, spacers he’s got it all now and I hope it keeps him safe.

    Yesterday was my first time cutting my grass with the Mauser cab on. Before I put the cab on cutting the slope against the road I could tell that it was not as planted as my x728 was. Now that I have the Mauser cab I felt a little more anxious so I changed to cutting straight up and down instead of sideways. I can do this but I’d rather not. I was able to cut all my areas in high range 2 wheel drive. I now have read that it would be best to cut those sloped areas in 4 wheel drive in case a back wheel did come off the ground being in 4WD might pull me out of a situation. Makes sense.

    I have searched and read a lot of information regarding filled tires, wheel spacers and wheel weights but have not found any information if weights added to the Heavy Hitch weight bracket will also work to lower the Center of gravity. I know it works great to ballast the FEL but how would it effect COG for mowing? Would carrying the weight just off the ground matter or is the COG not affected by the height of the weights because where the 3 pt hitch brackets attach to the tractor determines the COG.

    Might just be that I’m still safe and I’m just not used to the new seat of the pants feel. I would hate to find out the hard way. With all the experience the members of this forum has someone probably has a better idea of how 3 pt. Hitch weight changes the COG. I’d rather not invest in wheel weights or filled tires if what I already own will make a difference.
    2018 John Deere 1025r, Mauser cab, rear wiper, rear light, FEL, Piranah tooth bar, Heavy Hitch weight bar, 8 suitcase weights, 55 amp alternator, Kens hooks and seat springs, 54” MMM, 66” Loader mounted CTA plow, Artillian 3d function diverter kit. New Green equipment =less green in investments

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    Sportshot,

    Mowing while in 4WD will allow the resistance of the drivetrain to act as a brake in the event that you lift a rear wheel. IN 2WD, the front axle would freewheel.

    The height above the ground of the Heavy Hitch will affect the Center of Gravity. Keep in mind though that the weight of the mower deck mounted below the tractor will also work to lower the COG.

    The COG of the X728 would be much lower than the 1025R with the Mauser cab because the relatively higher placed weight of the cab will significantly increase the COG.

    That is one of the reasons that I remove the Cozy Cab off my 420 in the summer. It does make a big difference, as the weight of the cozy Cab approaches the Mauser Cab.

    Over time, the pucker factor of mowing with the 1025R will lessen as you become more familiar with its performance.

    Dave
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    Sportshot2,

    I don't mow with my tractor, but I have 2" rear spacers on my 1025R/Mauser cab. The spacers make a big difference in stability. I think you are limited to either 1-1/4" or maybe 1-1/2" spacers with a MMM. I also remove my doors and front and rear windshields, which reduces overall cab weight by about 150 lbs. That in itself lowers COG quite a bit.

    I would carefully experiment with weight on your HH, and forgo filled tires, so you can adjust your ballast as your different tractoring chores require.
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    Greg

    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional!

    2018 JD 1025R FEL /Mauser cab / 53" Bucket/Heavy hitch tooth bar / I-Match / Kenny's extended hook / JD ballast box / Loader mounted JD 54" snow plow/9" wings / Artillian 36" pallet fork set / Woods RTR48.30 tiller & LRS60 landscape rake / Howes 48" box blade /Heavy Hitch receiver/weight bracket / Heavy Hitch ripper/middle plow/subsoiler / Dual Alpena Hex Fire rear led lights / Bora 2" spacers / Land Pride CA1548 core aerator

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    @Sportshot2 your concerns are exactly my thinking. As I have not gotten my SCUT yet (although Im close to being ready) it was this exact concern that got me talking to one of the dealers recently. I have always thought I would be getting the 1025R, but in talking to the dealer, he mentioned getting bigger tires, having them filled, and getting spacers due to the COG. (in addition to the ballast box, HH etc)

    After he was done explaining this all to me, I asked him in his rough estimate, what the price difference would add up to for the bigger tires, spacers etc. When it said a ballpark price would be around $1500, it was my wife who turned to me and said "then why aren't we getting the 2025R instead" Bless her heart !!!

    So while the jury is still out on which one I will eventually end up getting, the make-or-break decision for me was in fact, having the Mauser cab on it. It's nice to know my finance committee has already seen the light.

    Sorry I was of absolutely no help in your COG issue but, I just wanted to chime in that it isn't all in your head. Others have the same concerns you do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdforever View Post
    Sportshot2,

    I don't mow with my tractor, but I have 2" rear spacers on my 1025R/Mauser cab. The spacers make a big difference in stability. I think you are limited to either 1-1/4" or maybe 1-1/2" spacers with a MMM. I also remove my doors and front and rear windshields, which reduces overall cab weight by about 150 lbs. That in itself lowers COG quite a bit.

    I would carefully experiment with weight on your HH, and forgo filled tires, so you can adjust your ballast as your different tractoring chores require.
    Hi Greg,

    I recalled that you did not mow with your tractor so I didn’t bother contacting you. It’s still cold here, 30F at my house this morning so I haven’t bothered to take the doors off yet. When it warms up I’ll take the doors off and see if it feels any different. The next step after that would be to add weight to the HH. Old racer once told me never change more than one thing at a time or you’ll never know what makes a difference. Thanks for the information.
    OxPath, jdforever, Busman and 1 others like this.
    2018 John Deere 1025r, Mauser cab, rear wiper, rear light, FEL, Piranah tooth bar, Heavy Hitch weight bar, 8 suitcase weights, 55 amp alternator, Kens hooks and seat springs, 54” MMM, 66” Loader mounted CTA plow, Artillian 3d function diverter kit. New Green equipment =less green in investments

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    Quote Originally Posted by Toughsox View Post
    @Sportshot2 your concerns are exactly my thinking. As I have not gotten my SCUT yet (although Im close to being ready) it was this exact concern that got me talking to one of the dealers recently. I have always thought I would be getting the 1025R, but in talking to the dealer, he mentioned getting bigger tires, having them filled, and getting spacers due to the COG. (in addition to the ballast box, HH etc)

    After he was done explaining this all to me, I asked him in his rough estimate, what the price difference would add up to for the bigger tires, spacers etc. When it said a ballpark price would be around $1500, it was my wife who turned to me and said "then why aren't we getting the 2025R instead" Bless her heart !!!

    So while the jury is still out on which one I will eventually end up getting, the make-or-break decision for me was in fact, having the Mauser cab on it. It's nice to know my finance committee has already seen the light.

    Sorry I was of absolutely no help in your COG issue but, I just wanted to chime in that it isn't all in your head. Others have the same concerns you do.
    I assume you checked with your dealer to confirm the 2xxx has a Mauser cab option? I was going to just put a cab on my x728 but Mauser doesn’t make one for x7xx. The other manufacturers have the heater sitting in the right dashboard area. I didn’t like that.

    I had a few issues with my cab when I got it but once I got past them everything has been great. Good luck with your choice and while the finance committee is in agreement today I wouldn’t wait too long because some finance committees have been known to change their minds!
    OxPath, jdforever and Toughsox like this.
    2018 John Deere 1025r, Mauser cab, rear wiper, rear light, FEL, Piranah tooth bar, Heavy Hitch weight bar, 8 suitcase weights, 55 amp alternator, Kens hooks and seat springs, 54” MMM, 66” Loader mounted CTA plow, Artillian 3d function diverter kit. New Green equipment =less green in investments

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    Absolutely. I cant speak for any of the other 2XXX series but, they do indeed make it for the 2025R, which was the biggest unit I would possible go for....... although they do make some sexy looking machines that are much bigger and sadly, more expensive.
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    I used to mow with a 1026R, 60D, no cab, with 72 lbs starter weights. Felt really good on my slopes.
    When I got the 1025R, 60D with a Mauser cab I was worried with the COG higher I would have issues.
    I put 1 1/2" spacers on with the starter weights and to me it seems just a stable as my old tractor if not a little better.
    With my 40 gal 3 pt sprayer 1/2 full still felt stable.
    If you put weight on the 3 pt the COG will be higher than the same amount of weight on the wheels. Also with it hanging off the back it will take weight off the front possibly causing steering issues.
    If it were me I would keep the weight low with wheel weights or filled tires.
    Last edited by LT_JD; 05-10-2019 at 09:27 PM.
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    2018 1025R, Mauser cab, 120R FEL w/53" bucket, 60D deck, 60HD broom, Frontier BB2048 box blade, 647 rototiller, Tarter 5' rear blade, Fimco 40 gal sprayer, Farm King Y600-4 snow blower
    60" Swisher offset finish mower.
    2010 TX Gator

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    Quote Originally Posted by LT_JD View Post
    I used to mow with a 1026R, 60D, no cab, with 72 lbs starter weights. Felt really good on my slopes.
    When I got the 1025R, 60D with a Mauser cab I was worried with the COG higher I would have issues.
    I put 1 1/2" spacers on with the starter weights and to me it seems just a stable as my old tractor if not a little better.
    With my 40 gal 3 pt sprayer 1/2 full still felt stable.
    If you put weight on the 3 pt the COG will be higher than the same amount of weight on the wheels. Also with it hanging off the back it will take weight off the front possibly causing steering issues.
    If it were me I would keep the weight low with wheel weights or filled tires.
    I agree 100% that the wheel weights and filled tires would be the best place for additional weight. Because I have already been able to do it in 2 wd with no weights I hate to spend $400 on starter wheel weights. Yes I might be able to find some for less on Craigslist someday but the only used set I spotted in the last month was 400 without the hardware. The guy must think they are no longer being manufactured

    I bet Kenny or one of our other talented forum members could make a basket or wire rod straps to allow you to bolt it under the wheel lugs and slip a 42# weight into the whatever to add 84# with weights that are cheaper or that you already own.
    jdforever and Toughsox like this.
    2018 John Deere 1025r, Mauser cab, rear wiper, rear light, FEL, Piranah tooth bar, Heavy Hitch weight bar, 8 suitcase weights, 55 amp alternator, Kens hooks and seat springs, 54” MMM, 66” Loader mounted CTA plow, Artillian 3d function diverter kit. New Green equipment =less green in investments

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    LT_JD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sportshot2 View Post
    I agree 100% that the wheel weights and filled tires would be the best place for additional weight. Because I have already been able to do it in 2 wd with no weights I hate to spend $400 on starter wheel weights. Yes I might be able to find some for less on Craigslist someday but the only used set I spotted in the last month was 400 without the hardware. The guy must think they are no longer being manufactured

    I bet Kenny or one of our other talented forum members could make a basket or wire rod straps to allow you to bolt it under the wheel lugs and slip a 42# weight into the whatever to add 84# with weights that are cheaper or that you already own.
    $400 for starter weights is only too much money until you flip it.
    jdforever and Sportshot2 like this.
    2018 1025R, Mauser cab, 120R FEL w/53" bucket, 60D deck, 60HD broom, Frontier BB2048 box blade, 647 rototiller, Tarter 5' rear blade, Fimco 40 gal sprayer, Farm King Y600-4 snow blower
    60" Swisher offset finish mower.
    2010 TX Gator

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