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Thread: 2305 differential failure

  1. Top | #51
    iamrfixit's Avatar
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    A box of parts arrived at my house on Monday and I finally got started with reassembly today. Realized I forgot to order a rear cover gasket and PTO valve gasket so got those ordered right away. The differential, pinion shaft and diff lock fork all have to go in together, took a little bit but it went together. Then got the PTO brake piston inserted and lined up with the brake shoe. Installed the pinion drive and range selector shafts and torqued on the front case. Once that was done I could install the PTO brake springs and tighten that up, along with the range selector detent ball and spring. Everything seemed to work as it should so installed the hydraulic pump and hydro drive motor. Then cleaned up and bolted on the axle housings. Pretty much stalled until I get the gaskets.

    This afternoon I was cleaning up and discovered one of the alignment pins had stuck in the old cover. With numerous studs along with the other pin I just didn't notice. Was able to pull the axle housing, loosen the cover and get the pin installed with minimal effort. Only problem is now that the whole front case assembled, I can no longer see that the PTO brake piston correctly engaged in the shoe. Pretty sure it's fine but another thing to worry about. Probably take an hour and a half to pull the pump, hydro motor and front case all apart and put it back together again just for a quick look, but that's the only way to see. I'll sleep on it, maybe remove the PTO brake piston again, measure the depth, just take another look at it.

    Took a bunch of pics during assembly, then run a borescope up behind the gear to see how well I could see the bolts. You could easily see the bolt heads but you'd need to rotate the differential to see all of them.

    I bench tested the high strength loctite on a 1/2 bolt and it's very stout stuff. I cleaned the bolt with brakleen, then applied primer, loctite and threaded the nut about halfway on by hand. Next day I put a 3/4 " wrench on and leaned into it, the bolt turned just slightly then locked up. I pulled about as hard as I could and it would not budge further.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1747.jpg   IMG_1748.jpg   IMG_1749.jpg   IMG_1750.jpg   IMG_1751.jpg  

    IMG_1752.jpg   IMG_1753.jpg   IMG_1754.jpg   IMG_1755.jpg   IMG_1756.jpg  

    2008 John Deere 2305, 200CX loader, 60" mower deck, imatch, 647 Tiller
    2005 John Deere X495, 62C mower deck and 54" snow blade
    1977 John Deere 300 garden tractor with 48" deck, 33 tiller and home built hydraulic blade

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  3. Top | #52
    iamrfixit's Avatar
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    Here's the borescope video and a still pic. It's just a cheap $35 camera from amazon, seems to work pretty well. I didn't spend much time on it because the battery was about dead and so was my phone but you can get the idea. This was through the suction screen hole and up behind the differential gear.


    https://youtu.be/5WerP7VyY4Q
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1759.jpg  
    2008 John Deere 2305, 200CX loader, 60" mower deck, imatch, 647 Tiller
    2005 John Deere X495, 62C mower deck and 54" snow blade
    1977 John Deere 300 garden tractor with 48" deck, 33 tiller and home built hydraulic blade

  4. Top | #53
    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    I wondered how you were coming on this project. I always just order my parts through my local dealer. The small savings online isn't worth it to me and my dealer will match their (GFP) prices anyway. Plus my dealer often gets parts the next day and sometimes, even later the same day if its in one of their other stores.

    You sure have the case and all the parts cleaned up very nicely, you must have a parts washer tank in your shop at home.

    You have done a wonderful job documenting this incident and also verifying details such as the ability to inspect the bull gear and the bolts with the inspection scope, which will be very helpful for anyone concerned about their machine.

    Looking forward to watching you get this machine back into running condition. Thanks again for taking the time and answering questions and doing an outstanding job documenting the process.
    Gizmo2 and wildbranch2007 like this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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  6. Top | #54
    iamrfixit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    I wondered how you were coming on this project. I always just order my parts through my local dealer. The small savings online isn't worth it to me and my dealer will match their (GFP) prices anyway. Plus my dealer often gets parts the next day and sometimes, even later the same day if its in one of their other stores.

    You sure have the case and all the parts cleaned up very nicely, you must have a parts washer tank in your shop at home.

    You have done a wonderful job documenting this incident and also verifying details such as the ability to inspect the bull gear and the bolts with the inspection scope, which will be very helpful for anyone concerned about their machine.

    Looking forward to watching you get this machine back into running condition. Thanks again for taking the time and answering questions and doing an outstanding job documenting the process.
    Saved about $90 plus the sales tax on a $900 order, went ahead and got a filter pack and a 5 gal bucket of hygard along with the parts. The cover was the biggest problem, as it was backordered with no release date. They found one in Canada and had to change status of the order to "emergency machine down" in order to get it shipped down here. No shipping and no additional freight charge on the order though! I don't mind a few days to save $160 but 2+ weeks is another thing. To do it again I'd probably just order the parts locally. As I was reassembling I was feeling very aware how long this thing has been apart.

    Tried hard to keep all the tractor parts organized but stuff gets moved around and other jobs keep coming. Had to replace F350 ball joints in the garage at home and did some steering column bearings in the driveway. Only a few blocks but it's a pain to run between places trying to get all the tools I need. Even for a job I've done many times, hard to remember everything. Speaking of ordering parts, I ordered the ball joint set from Amazon, I've been doing a lot of that lately. The local Oreilly store was $325 for four ball joints, $134 on amazon for the same Moog brand and identical part numbers! Often saving 50%+ over local parts. Struts, shocks, suspension parts, hub assemblies, lots of stuff has really big markups. Just ordered both door lock actuators for my truck, name brand for less than one generic actuator cost over the parts counter.

    I do have a parts washer, clean all the removable stuff in it along with using up most of a case of brakleen to clean out the heavy assembly. Thankfully I'd just found a couple cases of CRC on sale for $2.50 a can. Can also get it by the gallon and use it in a pressurized spray can, that works out to about the same as sale price. The local NAPA store is about $6+ for 19oz can but sells the gallon for $30, near sale price without all the cans to discard.
    SulleyBear and theduke like this.
    2008 John Deere 2305, 200CX loader, 60" mower deck, imatch, 647 Tiller
    2005 John Deere X495, 62C mower deck and 54" snow blade
    1977 John Deere 300 garden tractor with 48" deck, 33 tiller and home built hydraulic blade

  7. Top | #55
    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
    Speaking of ordering parts, I ordered the ball joint set from Amazon, I've been doing a lot of that lately. The local Oreilly store was $325 for four ball joints, $134 on amazon for the same Moog brand and identical part numbers! Often saving 50%+ over local parts. Struts, shocks, suspension parts, hub assemblies, lots of stuff has really big markups. Just ordered both door lock actuators for my truck, name brand for less than one generic actuator cost over the parts counter.
    I hate to admit it, but I have been doing the same thing with Amazon. First off, it's easy (too easy, which is why my order volumes keep growing with them) and in many cases, I have my Amazon parts in 1 day, but always by 2 days. We must be geographically close to a major shipping warehouse of Amazon's as I have ordered items just as a Prime member and had them the next day by 11am, without any special freight or shipping indicated. They aren't always the least expensive, but it pays to check. Sometimes, they are much cheaper not having to pay the shipping costs.

    The other thing I have found handy is while Amazon has all of the various sources of products listed in many of their product listings, it pays to check the source directly. For example, there are work shirts I like to wear and I usually order them 6 or 8 at a time. They are the moisture wicking shirts and I like the really bright "Safety Yellow" or "Optic Orange" colors. Amazon had them at $14.95 per shirt and I checked directly with the supplier to Amazon and was able to buy them for $10.95 each if I ordered 6 at a time and no shipping. They function just like the "Under Armor" clothes for a fraction of the price......

    My local dealer has been very good about matching prices for me on parts, etc. with online sources. While they can't do anything about the sales tax, they do run a fluid and filter sale in February and August of each year and I am able to get the 5 gallon buckets of Low Vis hydro fluid for about $45 and they have filters at 15% to 20% off their normal price. I usually stock up on the filters and fluid then.

    Also, strangely, it's often cheaper to purchase the individual filters from Deere than to buy the filter packs, which contain the same items......, so just be aware of that anomaly.......It's easier to order the filters in a pack, but last time I checked though my dealer, the filter packs were $3.00 each more than buying the individual filters.

    Looking forward to seeing your project go back together. Thanks again for doing such a great job with the descriptions and photos and really making the thread a valuable resource for others.
    iamrfixit likes this.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





  8. Top | #56
    iamrfixit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    I hate to admit it, but I have been doing the same thing with Amazon. First off, it's easy (too easy, which is why my order volumes keep growing with them) and in many cases, I have my Amazon parts in 1 day, but always by 2 days. We must be geographically close to a major shipping warehouse of Amazon's as I have ordered items just as a Prime member and had them the next day by 11am, without any special freight or shipping indicated. They aren't always the least expensive, but it pays to check. Sometimes, they are much cheaper not having to pay the shipping costs.
    Yup, always pays to check around. I usually do but sometimes just order from them anyway because it's so convenient. The other day I needed a couple smaller roll pin punches so ran to the Napa store. $12 for two and I often don't know for sure the exact size I need so thought it'd really be nice to just have a complete set, they wanted $175 for a Wilde brand, usa made set. Thought about it further, well maybe I don't need a set.

    On the computer later I remembered and searched around, didn't find them on amazon although they had other brands. But I know the Wilde quality has been pretty decent. Ebay was the winner, $55 for the same 12pc set from a reputable seller. Two days later it was in my toolbox.

    I usually just buy NAPA gold filters for everything, but they apparently can't cross the hydraulic filter. That one filter is like $30 alone so the $60 filter pack didn't seem too out of line, haven't priced each filter individually for this machine though.
    2008 John Deere 2305, 200CX loader, 60" mower deck, imatch, 647 Tiller
    2005 John Deere X495, 62C mower deck and 54" snow blade
    1977 John Deere 300 garden tractor with 48" deck, 33 tiller and home built hydraulic blade

  9. Top | #57
    iamrfixit's Avatar
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    Got my missing gasket on Thursday, spent about 20 minutes getting the rear cover on. Since I was using the hoist to lift it, I also attached the hitch/rops support onto the transaxle, then hung the assembly on the frame of the tractor. The engine hoist made it a piece of cake, the whole process of getting it in place an hooking it up took maybe a half hour. I connected up the hydraulic lines, brake, forward/reverse and wiring. Found the power steering return line had a tiny screen crimped in the banjo bolt. The screen was starting to come loose so called it a day and ordered a new bolt first thing Friday morning. Paid freight to get the bolt Saturday morning and installed it. Added the hygard but got called out so I didn't get much done.

    Late this morning I fired it up, topped it off, checked for leaks and tested it out. The 3 point lifted and lowered and forward and reverse motion worked fine. I installed the footboard, brake pedal and forward/reverse pedals. Then came the fender deck, Hi/Lo lever, Fwd lever, Pto lever, diff lock lever and seat. Then bolted on the Rops and hooked up the lights. Have some issue with the flashers but the work lights all work fine. The flashers used to work but one of the lights was busted off and hanging by the wires when it came to the shop. I've tested all my new wiring and it's all fine. It's a fuse, diode or flasher issue just haven't narrowed it down yet. Probably shorted something when he smashed the light off, he said he hit a gooseneck trailer with it. Don't really need them but they're on there so I like to have them working. I'll get it found but not a priority right now. Took it for a spin, then loaded it on my trailer and went to pickup the loader and tiller.

    Having done it, I'm sure I could drive it in the shop and have the transaxle on the bench in an hour. Took me about 3.5 hours the last time but I had to figure out how everything came apart. As I was reassembling things I kept feeling like I was forgetting something because it went so quickly. Had no parts left over and everything seems to work other than the flashers. Hopefully I'll never need to take it apart again.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1775.jpg   IMG_1780.jpg  
    2008 John Deere 2305, 200CX loader, 60" mower deck, imatch, 647 Tiller
    2005 John Deere X495, 62C mower deck and 54" snow blade
    1977 John Deere 300 garden tractor with 48" deck, 33 tiller and home built hydraulic blade

  10. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to iamrfixit For This Useful Post:

    FortClatsop (06-24-2019), JD4044M (06-23-2019)

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