2305 differential failure
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Thread: 2305 differential failure

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    iamrfixit's Avatar
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    2305 differential failure

    Posted on a similar thread but thought I'd start my own and add a few pics. The tractor is a 2008 and belongs to a friend who's a landscaper. Just rolled over 600 hours when the differential came apart and lost rear drive. All ten bolts worked loose, broke off or fell out of the bull gear. When that happens the wheels are completely loose and freewheel. The tractor has only a pinion brake so you have no brakes at all. Luckily he was using front wheel assist along with the tiller and loader or it could have been much worse. He was landscaping a yard at a new house on the edge of a long steep hill.

    He bought the tractor in 2016 with 180 hours on it. I serviced the transmission and found some aluminum filings so cleaned it up and changed the oil. After 8-10 hours I drained the oil again, checked the screen and found no filings. Don't know if he had any service done since then, I haven't had it in my shop. He said he had been noticing some noise when he'd road the tractor between jobs, but seemed fine when in the dirt or under load. I found all ten bolts in the bottom of the case, all of them are bent and have the threads chewed up. One bolt was broken off in the gear but I was able to screw the piece out with my fingers, no locktite at all on any of the bolts. The case has some minor damage and the differential carrier has the holes egged out. The side cover is destroyed. The bull gear has some marks on the top edge of the teeth but it will clean up with a file. Have most of the cleanup done just waiting on all the parts to come in.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1694b.jpg   IMG_1698.jpg   IMG_1700.jpg   IMG_1701.jpg   IMG_1702.jpg  

    IMG_1703.jpg   IMG_1705.jpg   IMG_1706.jpg   IMG_1708.jpg  

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    Wow! I think there was a thread about a year ago about the the same thing that happened to another guy, seems to a be an assembly goof at the factory.
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    iamrfixit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mopeman View Post
    Wow! I think there was a thread about a year ago about the the same thing that happened to another guy, seems to a be an assembly goof at the factory.
    My initial search of possible problems found his post, as soon as I saw it I just knew I had the same issue.

    Says in the manual to use high strength thread locker on these bolts, but they apparently skipped that step. Not one bolt had sign of any in the threads. One bolt was still fully engaged in the gear but snapped off, I turned the piece out easily with my fingers.

    Kinda surprised me how easy removing the whole assembly was. In only four hours I had it on the table with the side open, that included pulling the rear cover first to confirm what I thought was the problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
    My initial search of possible problems found his post, as soon as I saw it I just knew I had the same issue.

    Says in the manual to use high strength thread locker on these bolts, but they apparently skipped that step. Not one bolt had sign of any in the threads. One bolt was still fully engaged in the gear but snapped off, I turned the piece out easily with my fingers.

    Kinda surprised me how easy removing the whole assembly was. In only four hours I had it on the table with the side open, that included pulling the rear cover first to confirm what I thought was the problem.
    If you would, please post a picture of the bolts from the ring gear........including the broken off portion of the bolt. Now those with 2305 have another thing to worry about, in addition to the driveshaft failure worries...........

    It would also be helpful if you would post a picture of the V.I.N. Tag, so we could have the serial number range of the machine. It would help establish a serial number range for the tractor which had a failure.

    Splitting the case and actually pulling a bolt out of the pinion carrier is the only way to know if a 2305 is missing the thread lock. Then, pull all ten bolts and properly thread lock them, torque them back into the carrier assembly and reassemble.

    Which parts are you having to replace to complete this repair? Obviously, the 10 ring gear bolts and You mentioned the side cover was damaged as well. Just curious what other parts need to be replaced.

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    iamrfixit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    If you would, please post a picture of the bolts from the ring gear........including the broken off portion of the bolt. Now those with 2305 have another thing to worry about, in addition to the driveshaft failure worries...........

    It would also be helpful if you would post a picture of the V.I.N. Tag, so we could have the serial number range of the machine. It would help establish a serial number range for the tractor which had a failure.

    Splitting the case and actually pulling a bolt out of the pinion carrier is the only way to know if a 2305 is missing the thread lock. Then, pull all ten bolts and properly thread lock them, torque them back into the carrier assembly and reassemble.

    Which parts are you having to replace to complete this repair? Obviously, the 10 ring gear bolts and You mentioned the side cover was damaged as well. Just curious what other parts need to be replaced.

    Probably the easiest thing that can be done is service and check the screen regularly, if you find ANY signs of filings I'd definitely investigate. The bolts were obviously hitting the side cover 400 hours before completely failing. When I changed the oil at 165 hrs there was only a few filings and a small piece of a rib from the side cover. If it had been investigated then it probably would have been a matter of cleaning it up and getting the bolts torqued and loctited.

    Going to take about $1500 in parts, the side cover is around $550 and the differential case is about $700. The right side bearing is hard to successfully remove without damage so just going to replace both bearings, also all the gaskets and of course filter and oil.

    The bull gear has some marks on the top edge of the teeth but at $750 I'm going to clean it up and re-use it. The marks were likely caused by a bolt trying to wedge between the gear and the case. Luckily that didn't happen or it would have blown out the bottom of the case. The case has a small flap broken out where the gear hit, but don't believe it really adds significant strength. Looking at the other posters pics his was broken in the same spot. You can also see the marks on the bottom of the case from the bolts digging in.

    I'll get some pics of the bolts and vin when I get back to the shop.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1698.jpg   IMG_1701.jpg  

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    iamrfixit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    If you would, please post a picture of the bolts from the ring gear........including the broken off portion of the bolt.
    It would also be helpful if you would post a picture of the V.I.N. Tag,
    Here's the bolts and vin tag
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1710.JPG   IMG_1711.JPG  

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
    Here's the bolts and vin tag
    I'd be a tad upset with JD. I see no reason for this.
    Keith

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    I'd be a tad upset with JD. I see no reason for this.
    I wouldn’t be happy either. Stuff like this will cause people to buy a different brand next time.
    Eric

    2011 1026R / H120 / 60D auto-connect, independent-lift mmm / 54" snowblower / 4' KK Pro rotary mower / KK 4' tiller

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    Quote Originally Posted by iamrfixit View Post
    Here's the bolts and vin tag
    There was no lock-tite on those bolts, and the bolt heads are not drilled for safety wire. No wonder they came loose.

    I just checked the 1025R Technical Manual to see if JD indicates whether the ring gear attaching bolts are supposed to have thread locker applied to the attaching bolts. They do indicate to apply thread locker.

    Hopefully they did when they initially installed them.

    I personally believe cap-screws that are used in these types of applications should be safety-wire bolts, but I guess they are just too expensive and take too much time to install!!!

    https://www.mcmaster.com/safety-wire-bolts
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1025R Rear Diff-Ring_Gear_Install.JPG   Safety Wire Capscrews_1.JPG  
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