60D deck arms bent
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Thread: 60D deck arms bent

  1. Top | #1

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    Angry 60D deck arms bent

    I've had greater and greater difficulty getting my 60D to mate with my 1025R. Today finally I spent roughly 45 minutes trying to get it to attach before giving up. Upon closer inspection, it seems the right "arm" that receives the lift "knobs" has bent in such a way that the "knob" can no longer slide into the slot. The left side seems fine. Has anyone encountered this problem before, and is there a way for me to fix it?

    I made the problem worse by trying to drive with the mower half attached... It was in the way of my vehicles so instead of dragging it out of the way I tried to drive it out of the way. Unfortunately the deck fell off halfway through at an awkward angle (basically it was 45 degrees underneath my tractor) and I could no longer back out over it in the standard route, and when I finally got off of it, I had also bent one of the deck's wheel holders. I know, it was stupid -- I was really frustrated at that point and I let it get the better of me.

    Some pictures:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's the left (not bent) arm. Notice how my flashlight is able to slide all the way into the slot.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That's the right arm. That's as far as my flashlight is able to slide.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Collateral damage due to my frustration.
    Last edited by reimhagen; 05-14-2019 at 12:18 AM. Reason: added some pictures
    etcallhome likes this.

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  3. Top | #2

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    I had a bend in the vertical wheel holder rod (with the pin holes). It was so bad, it wouldn't go up all the way. I managed to beat it straight by wacking it with a sledge on a rock...good as new now! Sounds like a pry pipe on the other part too. Good luck.
    PJR832 likes this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tlawler View Post
    I had a bend in the vertical wheel holder rod (with the pin holes). It was so bad, it wouldn't go up all the way. I managed to beat it straight by wacking it with a sledge on a rock...good as new now! Sounds like a pry pipe on the other part too. Good luck.
    Do you think I should use a torch to heat up the metal before bending it with a pipe? Last thing I want to do now is to break that arm off while trying to bend it.
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    John Deere 1025R TLB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reimhagen View Post
    Do you think I should use a torch to heat up the metal before bending it with a pipe? Last thing I want to do now is to break that arm off while trying to bend it.
    It bent without heat the first time. Not like you are bending high strength steel either. Heat will also change the metal some. Go easy at it, it will go back. Just work it.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Deere 1025R TLB View Post
    It bent without heat the first time. Not like you are bending high strength steel either. Heat will also change the metal some. Go easy at it, it will go back. Just work it.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    Thanks! I found a 8' section of pipe and gently bent it bit by bit. The mower slides on nicely now

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    This is a weak area of the mower....with all those pin holes.....I think a people lower the wheels too much...

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    John Deere 1025R TLB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reimhagen View Post
    Thanks! I found a 8' section of pipe and gently bent it bit by bit. The mower slides on nicely now
    Good deal!

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    kylew likes this.
    MY2013 1025R TLB
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    I've got a 60 D and that attaching bracket is pretty poor....that should have been made of material about twice that width. If you notice on your front bracket it is much heavier. The 60D deck likes a lot to be desired. I don't use mine as I prefer my zero turn. The whole cradle affair seems some what "mickey mouse". I took it off of my 1025r as it was causing so much rattling. I suppose all this is a substitute for having only one tractor. I like my 1025r with the backhoe and have dedicated as such. Still have the deck and accessories if I decide to sell. If one is not worried about getting a little grease on their hands...the other pto shaft is simpler to use.

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    Quote Originally Posted by machineryman View Post
    I've got a 60 D and that attaching bracket is pretty poor....that should have been made of material about twice that width. If you notice on your front bracket it is much heavier. The 60D deck likes a lot to be desired. I don't use mine as I prefer my zero turn. The whole cradle affair seems some what "mickey mouse". I took it off of my 1025r as it was causing so much rattling. I suppose all this is a substitute for having only one tractor. I like my 1025r with the backhoe and have dedicated as such. Still have the deck and accessories if I decide to sell. If one is not worried about getting a little grease on their hands...the other pto shaft is simpler to use.
    Yeah, I wonder if the manual deck would have been a better choice for me. I don't have a concrete driveway or surface on my property to set it; it usually wiggles around a bit on the dirt/gravel underneath the tractor when i drive over it; this messes up the alignment usually and makes it more difficult than necessary to attach it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by reimhagen View Post
    Yeah, I wonder if the manual deck would have been a better choice for me. I don't have a concrete driveway or surface on my property to set it; it usually wiggles around a bit on the dirt/gravel underneath the tractor when i drive over it; this messes up the alignment usually and makes it more difficult than necessary to attach it.
    There is no 'manual' connect deck for the 1025, only the PTO driveshaft is manual or autoconnect. The deck is still autoconnect.
    dieselshadow likes this.
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