1026r MFWD Lever Broke Off
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Thread: 1026r MFWD Lever Broke Off

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    1026r MFWD Lever Broke Off

    Hi! I seem to have a unique problem according to the Deere dealer. The MFWD lever broke off in my hand. Looks like it just cracked near the final bend. I have the part ordered, and have been looking through the Service Manual to best access the attachment point. Has anyone done this?
    I can't find a good reference but I simply can't find the attachment point by looking. Is it safe to assume I need to removed the right rear wheel, the seat, the panel closures, just to get in there to attach a new lever?
    Any advice would be really helpful. I've searched here and only found one pic that didn't help a lot TBH.
    Thanks!

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Keith

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    Gizmo,

    I think his tractor might have this more vertical MFWD handle on it, as the European edition machines are different than the World wide edition machines, which often include the USA models.

    Also, there was a change on the machines in the MFWD lever style, so it depends upon which lever is on his machine. I think it is this one, though.....the OP would be the best judge.

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    Gizmo,

    I think his tractor might have this more vertical MFWD handle on it, as the European edition machines are different than the World wide edition machines, which often include the USA models.

    Also, there was a change on the machines in the MFWD lever style, so it depends upon which lever is on his machine. I think it is this one, though.....the OP would be the best judge.

    John Deere Parts Catalog
    I think you are probably correct, My Bad. Good catch.
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    I believe if you just removed the right rear tire and the right seat closure panel, the should have enough--hopefully. There is a roll pin that secures the lever to the transaxle shaft. My concern is whether you'll have enough clearance to remove the pin with a pin-punch/hammer. You may have to pull the rear fender as well, which requires removing the floorboard.

    After you have the lever installed, I'd recommend you run a piece of safety wire through the roll pin and tie it off around the shaft. The roll pins are known to vibrate out. I utilize stainless steel safety wire and a wrapping tool made for aviation. I think you can find them on Amazon. In a pinch, a piece of mechanics wire and pliers will probably work, but the wire gauge is larger and that will make it difficult to feed through.
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    Yes, I have the USA version, so that second diagram looked right. The advice on wheel and panel removal is what I needed. Much appreciated. Can't believe it broke, looks like pot metal but the dealer said he had never heard of one breaking. Oh well ... now I have something to do Saturday morning. Thank you everybody!
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    I checked for some photos and I had one. You can see the roll pin sticking up:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You will have to remove the right rear fender. I've attached excerpts from the Technical Manual on the procedure.

    From the photo, it almost appears as if there may not be enough clearance between the end of the shaft and the frame, to slide the control lever off. However, I think that is just the photo angle. There has been several posts where members have replaced the 2018 lever with an older one or modified the 2018 version to make the handle more user friendly. I know they didn't pull the transaxle to do so.
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    UPDATE from OP

    Received a new arm and roll pin - by removing rear wheel and plastic closure panel, was able to rig a 16" roll pin removal punch extension and got the old pin and broken arm piece off. Then the fun started. Ever try to get a roll pin through top hole, shaft, and bottom hole of the lever when you can't put it in a vise? At this point I say it is impossible. After several hours of frustrating banging, "engineering," and bent punches I gave up. Took it to the dealer. I showed the service guy what the issue was ... he agreed. I hate to take it to someone that has never done it before either, but at least they can get at it easier from the bottom if need be. So frustrating.
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    martincom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpoonPig007 View Post
    Received a new arm and roll pin - by removing rear wheel and plastic closure panel, was able to rig a 16" roll pin removal punch extension and got the old pin and broken arm piece off. Then the fun started. Ever try to get a roll pin through top hole, shaft, and bottom hole of the lever when you can't put it in a vise? At this point I say it is impossible. After several hours of frustrating banging, "engineering," and bent punches I gave up. Took it to the dealer. I showed the service guy what the issue was ... he agreed. I hate to take it to someone that has never done it before either, but at least they can get at it easier from the bottom if need be. So frustrating.
    I'm probably "arm chair quarterbacking" here, but did you rotate the shaft to the 4x4 position? I believe that would result in the roll pin hole being vertical and simplify driving it in. I also have a set of roll pin punches with a dimple on the end, which keeps the punched centered over and on the roll pin.
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