1025r broke steering hydraulic line
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Thread: 1025r broke steering hydraulic line

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    Question 1025r broke steering hydraulic line

    I was clearing some brush yesterday with a grapple and the steering stopped working. I looked under the tractor and there was quite a bit of fluid and I found that a hydraulic line had been broken away from the steering cylinder on the front transaxle, I am assuming I lust have wedged it against something without noticing. I have a couple of questions. Is the piece that appears to be broken off in the hose and cylinder some kind of connector or will I need to replace the entire cylinder (or hose or both)? Does somebody make a good skid plate to prevent this from happening again?
    Thanks, as always, for all your help, I love this forum and get great value from it even though I rarely post.

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    Quote Originally Posted by horosho View Post
    I was clearing some brush yesterday with a grapple and the steering stopped working. I looked under the tractor and there was quite a bit of fluid and I found that a hydraulic line had been broken away from the steering cylinder on the front transaxle, I am assuming I lust have wedged it against something without noticing. I have a couple of questions. Is the piece that appears to be broken off in the hose and cylinder some kind of connector or will I need to replace the entire cylinder (or hose or both)? Does somebody make a good skid plate to prevent this from happening again?
    Thanks, as always, for all your help, I love this forum and get great value from it even though I rarely post.
    I'm thinking it might be just the swivel portion of the hose coupler based on the second photo but I just can't quite tell from those angles. get a wrench and remove the nut portion from the cylinder and I think you will have your answer.
    Last edited by jgayman; 06-23-2019 at 12:07 PM.
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    I agree that it looks like the swivel is broken. I would remove the part thats still on the cylinder, and then remove the hose from the tractor and take it to a local hydraulics shop and get a new hose made.
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    To me, it looks like what's broken is the 90° elbow fitting. Part number 38H1003, $13.16. Item 9 in this picture.

    As far as skid plates, Bro-tek list front & rear for the 1026, but I haven't heard of anyone having them or whether they work on a 1025. I would imagine they would.

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    What I can tell by the pic it may just be a fitting. Unless it's a live swivel something has to move to tighten or loosen. Hopefully $5 and your back on the road oops $13.16
    Last edited by Melikes; 06-23-2019 at 03:10 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post
    To me, it looks like what's broken is the 90° elbow fitting. Part number 38H1003, $13.16. Item 9 in this picture.

    As far as skid plates, Bro-tek list front & rear for the 1026, but I haven't heard of anyone having them or whether they work on a 1025. I would imagine they would.

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    Bro-tek has had the 1026R skid plate listed for a number of years on his web page, but not available to order. When I spoke with him a year or so ago, he indicated his web designer was a bit over ambitious. Also, the local dealership changed hands and the new owners were no longer willing to loan him tractors to develop prototypes from.

    Regardless, the skid plate likely would not have prevented this particular steering cylinder damage.
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    Thank you guys, I feel much better about this now.

    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    I'm thinking it might be just the swivel portion of the hose coupler based on the second photo but I just can't quite tell from those angles. get a wrench and remove the nut portion from the cylinder and I think you will have your answer.
    Took your advice and it looks like your thought is correct. Nice job diagnosing from the photos!

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    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post
    To me, it looks like what's broken is the 90° elbow fitting. Part number 38H1003, $13.16. Item 9 in this picture.

    As far as skid plates, Bro-tek list front & rear for the 1026, but I haven't heard of anyone having them or whether they work on a 1025. I would imagine they would.

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    That's awesome - thank you! Where did that diagram come from?
    I appreciate everybody's help, looks like this is one that I can do myself and get back to clearing brush!

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    Quote Originally Posted by horosho View Post
    Thank you guys, I feel much better about this now.

    Took your advice and it looks like your thought is correct. Nice job diagnosing from the photos!

    That's awesome - thank you! Where did that diagram come from?
    I appreciate everybody's help, looks like this is one that I can do myself and get back to clearing brush!
    Tat's great news! You really lucked out!! :-)

    The diagram is from the illustrated parts catalogs that are available on the JD website. You just key in the model of your tractor and then navigate to the associated section.

    You can also get the part numbers from the illustration.

    https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/
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    Make sure to check the actual part numbers for your machine based upon it's VIN number as there are some VIN number breaks on the 1025R and the parts illustrations are different for some based upon the VIN number. So make sure to have your machine's VIN number handy. I carry a picture of the VIN numbers from my tractors and Zero Turn right on my Smart Phone so I have it handy for checking. It saves getting the wrong part and having to make another trip to the dealer.

    Between the 90 degree fittings on the steering cylinder and also on the front Quick Hitch lift and the Angle cylinders, I keep a couple of those 90 degree fittings in my spare parts kit in the garage. I hate the thought of leaving the machine sitting out where it was when it broke until I get the parts from the dealer. Plus in the winter, I can't afford the down time with all the snow I need to be plowing............

    The 90's on the steering are susceptible to the low clearance issue but the 90's on the front quick hitch are subject to ice accumulating on them and then when the front quick hitch is angled, it will first bend the 90's and eventually, they start dripping and then they will full on leak.

    Fortunately, they usually break just as your did, which are fairly easy to repair as long as the access isn't too bad. Just grab the portion broken off in the steering cylinder with vise grips as with the taper on the end, it's going to be snug in the cylinder.

    When you are refilling the Hydro Oil, go slowly, adding a quart and checking it as the way the dip stick works on many of these machines, including the 1 series, the fluid won't show on the dip stick and you keep adding and all of a sudden, it's full.......From failing to show on the dip stick to being over full is less than 1/2 a gallon of fluid apart and you don't want to over fill it. Once it registers on the dip stick, I would add a pint and check it because it reaches the full level real quickly.............

    Also a set of tubing wrenches are handy to work on the fittings and not round off their edges. Just know that in some situations, once assembled, there isn't the room to get the tubing wrench back off the fitting so beware of that when using the tubing wrenches.................also, it's handy to have both the SAE and Metric sizes with these machines......


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    Last edited by SulleyBear; 06-24-2019 at 08:23 AM. Reason: Added VIN Number reminder
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