1025R FEL hydraulic connector leaking
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    1025R FEL hydraulic connector leaking

    Ok...so as many of you know I've been digging a sizeable hole by hand for my amateur radio antenna. What I've noticed the past 2 times I've hooked the front end loader up is that when I go to put it away, I have hydraulic fluid dripping from one of the connectors onto my mower deck......Not sure what to check here. Any idea on what causes these to leak? I usually keep the little rubber caps on both ends of the cables when not in use, but do know some small debris has to be getting in there......
    1025R with MMM and FEL and an LX186

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    Following - have the exact same problem. Also have oil leaking out of the hose ends attached to the FEL after disconnecting an leaving them draped over the FEL making a small (4-6”) stain on the gravel


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    Most hydraulic shops can replace the two parts of the quick-disconnect connectors at the point they are leaking . . .

    You will lose about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of hydraulic line . . . is you existing line long enough

    If you have a trailer you can bring your tractor to your hydraulic shop and they can see what you want to do . . . I did this on an old machine years ago and it worked
    Toughsox likes this.
    Auguste . . . a blue collar guy working in a white collar world
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fungus View Post
    Ok...so as many of you know I've been digging a sizeable hole by hand for my amateur radio antenna. What I've noticed the past 2 times I've hooked the front end loader up is that when I go to put it away, I have hydraulic fluid dripping from one of the connectors onto my mower deck......Not sure what to check here. Any idea on what causes these to leak? I usually keep the little rubber caps on both ends of the cables when not in use, but do know some small debris has to be getting in there......
    If you connect and disconnect often, and if you are obliged to tap the fitting to release the pressure in the hose it can result in tiny damage to the mating edges which can cause a leak

    The little caps will keep the connectors relatively clean but not stop leaks.

    I clean with a clean rag and wash the connectors with clean oil before assembling
    Toughsox likes this.
    Auguste . . . a blue collar guy working in a white collar world
    Rexton, New Brunswick, Canada

    1025r Tractor aka Bucky ~ New in April 2018 ~ 225 hours to date, about 13 hours per month - - - no lawn cutting

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Once they start leaking, replacement is the best option. Since the threaded connection is ORB rather than the common NPT, the dealer is the best place to get them.
    glc, rtgt, SulleyBear and 3 others like this.
    Kenny

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    I thought Ken's Bolt on Hooks was the best place to get stuff
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    Kennyd (07-02-2019)

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post
    I thought Ken's Bolt on Hooks was the best place to get stuff
    Normally, it is LOL. But these QD’s are hard to get and I couldn’t sell them for much less than JD does so I don’t carry them.
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    Kenny

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    Anyone have a guide/instructions on how to remove/replace the male ones on the hoses as well as the female ones on the tractor? Should you replace both or just the males or female ends?


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    As far as replacing both or just the leaking one, I believe I've heard people just replace the leaking one. They're not a machined pair.

    The male ones should just unscrew. Relieve the pressure first by covering the end with a thick rag and push the tip against the frame or the ground. Use line wrenches if possible. If there's an adaptor (#7) between the coupler (#8) and the hose end, don't take the adaptor off. There shouldn't be a replaceable o-ring behind the coupler but there is behind the adaptor.

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    The female coupler shows an o-ring between it and the pipe end (#3). I'd get one of those and replace it at the same time. They also show a snap ring (#14) on the back side of the bracket holding the 4 couplers. I believe you have to take that off to get the coupler off. IIRC I read a post before where they changed the female coupler and it was pretty easy.

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    Last edited by kylew; 07-02-2019 at 08:01 PM. Reason: Spellchecker....GRRR
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    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post
    As far as replacing both or just the leaking one, I believe I've heard people just replace the leaking one. They're not a machined pair.

    The male ones should just unscrew. Relieve the pressure first by covering the end with a thick rag and push the tip against the frame or the ground. Use line wrenches if possible. If there's an adaptor (#7) between the coupler (#8) and the hose end, don't take the adaptor off. There shouldn't be a replaceable o-ring behind the coupler but there is behind the adaptor.





    The female coupler shows an o-ring between it and the pipe end (#3). I'd get one of those and replace it at the same time. They also show a snap ring (#14) on the back side of the bracket holding the 4 couplers. I believe you have to take that off to get the coupler off. IIRC I read a post before where they changed the female coupler and it was pretty easy.
    I have replaced them on other machines and they are very easy. Once they start to leak, sometimes you can clean out debris and get them to stop, but frankly to clean they properly, you have to remove them and then you don't know if you actually cleaned the debris causing the leak and often they just need replacement.

    If you are going to the trouble to remove them to clean them, replace with new and keep the old as spares just in case one is damaged and won't connect. Then, having a dripping spare is better than a damaged one which won't work.

    I keep a full set of these in my spare parts box. There is enough failure with these eventually to warrant replacement. The very best way to avoid leaking quick connect fittings is to leave them always connected.

    The big farm box stores sell these if you are in a pinch on the holidays or Sundays. They are the 1/4" quick connect hydraulic fittings.

    As far as Kenny's parts, he has the very best plugs for keeping the hydraulic fittings clean. They require compression of the sleeve to insert the caps which fit INTO the fittings, not over them like the cheesy one's from Deere. Kenny's plugs have metal chains on them to retain them. I cut the chains off and when I remove the plugs, I put them in the tool box to avoid losing them.

    I am sure he knows which plugs I am referring to. Don't waste your time or money replacing the Deere covers, get the actual plugs from Kenny and buy them once and be done. Dirt and debris is what wrecks these fittings. When your male fitting isn't in the female on the tractor, the plugs should be in.

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